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Now that I think again about your first post… the noise you describe lead me to think it’s a wheel bearing. Let say you are changing lane from the left to the right … it would make noise… then go away the other way around … The wheel bearing might feel good when you perform a front end check … but might fail anyway.. Best way to test those is to get both front wheel off the ground and make sure you use jack stand.. get somebody to drive the vehicle to let say 70kph + and get a sthetoscope on the knuckle close to the axle.. compare left to right … you will be able to tell which one is the noisy one.
Now that I think again about your first post… the noise you describe lead me to think it’s a wheel bearing. Let say you are changing lane from the left to the right … it would make noise… then go away the other way around … The wheel bearing might feel good when you perform a front end check … but might fail anyway.. Best way to test those is to get both front wheel off the ground and make sure you use jack stand.. get somebody to drive the vehicle to let say 70kph + and get a sthetoscope on the knuckle close to the axle.. compare left to right … you will be able to tell which one is the noisy one.
The driver side is the left side and passenger is right. if you look at the car from the front or the rear ….. left is left and right is right…
To test the ball joint and tie rod you need to make sure you lift the car on the lips (the same way you lift the tire when you replace a flat on the side of the road) that way the suspension hang loose and you can tell if the ball joint are worn. If you lift it just under the control arm… there is weight on the ball joint and you can test it.
The driver side is the left side and passenger is right. if you look at the car from the front or the rear ….. left is left and right is right…
To test the ball joint and tie rod you need to make sure you lift the car on the lips (the same way you lift the tire when you replace a flat on the side of the road) that way the suspension hang loose and you can tell if the ball joint are worn. If you lift it just under the control arm… there is weight on the ball joint and you can test it.
Is the check engine light comes on when you turn the key on and the issue occur? You may have a bad ignition switch.
If the light is on. Can you confirm you have spark? as well as checking for fuel pressure.
The fuel injector might be a bit tougher to test but I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the truck and see when it fail if pressure drop . If it does drop you still might have a fuel pump issue. Bypassing the relay you looking at the fuel pressure you tell you for sure.
Is the check engine light comes on when you turn the key on and the issue occur? You may have a bad ignition switch.
If the light is on. Can you confirm you have spark? as well as checking for fuel pressure.
The fuel injector might be a bit tougher to test but I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the truck and see when it fail if pressure drop . If it does drop you still might have a fuel pump issue. Bypassing the relay you looking at the fuel pressure you tell you for sure.
You may have a front strut spring broken or seized strut bearing.. suspension would need to be address.
Need to figure is the noise coming from the left or right side.
A video with the noise would help
You may have a front strut spring broken or seized strut bearing.. suspension would need to be address.
Need to figure is the noise coming from the left or right side.
A video with the noise would help
You have to bench bleed the master cylinder prior to install it. You can replace master and caliper in the same time after that. I would bleed at the wheel you are replacing first until no more air and nice fluid color is flowing out (check your reservoir) then I would bleed the 3 other one until nice fluid color is flowing.
You should have any problem bleeding as long as the master is bled first. The abs unit need to be bled when it’s replaced but if no air is coming before the abs unit. everything should go smooth
You have to bench bleed the master cylinder prior to install it. You can replace master and caliper in the same time after that. I would bleed at the wheel you are replacing first until no more air and nice fluid color is flowing out (check your reservoir) then I would bleed the 3 other one until nice fluid color is flowing.
You should have any problem bleeding as long as the master is bled first. The abs unit need to be bled when it’s replaced but if no air is coming before the abs unit. everything should go smooth
Look at the alternator. You should see 1 bolt that control the adjustment. You also have 1 bolt underneath as well (long one) the both of them should be loosen up to the alternator will come loose. Then you remove the belt, compare with your new one for same length, You will need a pry bar of some sort to put tension on the alternator and re-secure both bolt. Check how tight the belt was before removal so it will give you an idea how tight the belt should be. Let the car run for 5 to 10 minutes and then shut the engine off. Re-check the belt tension. If it’s satisfactory, you are done 😉
Draw a picture of the belt routine with the pulley before you get unsure after you remove the belt. It’s not a complex one but better take the time that way then scratching you head later 😉
K
Look at the alternator. You should see 1 bolt that control the adjustment. You also have 1 bolt underneath as well (long one) the both of them should be loosen up to the alternator will come loose. Then you remove the belt, compare with your new one for same length, You will need a pry bar of some sort to put tension on the alternator and re-secure both bolt. Check how tight the belt was before removal so it will give you an idea how tight the belt should be. Let the car run for 5 to 10 minutes and then shut the engine off. Re-check the belt tension. If it’s satisfactory, you are done 😉
Draw a picture of the belt routine with the pulley before you get unsure after you remove the belt. It’s not a complex one but better take the time that way then scratching you head later 😉
K
Check in the passager compartment junction block (same block as fuse 10 which should be 10 amp) its call pre-exitation resistor.
Check in the passager compartment junction block (same block as fuse 10 which should be 10 amp) its call pre-exitation resistor.
You should get your alignment done ASAP after tie rod replacement. I assume you wanted to say .5 to 1 degree as 10 degree … you would drive with the tire screaming help me !!!
I would consider checking where your mechanic did the work. he may have bent a backing plate trying to remove the tie rod. I don’t know if he had to drop the cradle to replace the rack but it the main bolt are not secure properly it goes from a thumping noise to a clicking noise. Also maybe the rack is not secure properly as well as the swaybar link kit.
A link kit would make sense if he did drop the cradle and need to remove the link… as those are a pain in the butt to remove sometime and may have not been reinstall quite tight enough and have loosen up after you driving it for a little while.