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Look like a vacuum end. Check around the air filter box for some plastic end uncover. If not check around the intake as well.
You might be able to hear a vacuum leak when the engine is running.
Look like the end are worn as well.
When you put it back together .. If the front end test good and the thread are in good condition, you are fine. If the boots when you took it out has hole in it.. the water can get in.
If you feel unsure. You can get a needle size grease adapter to put on a grease gun. You poke a hole and can fill the rubber end. If the grease is there is prevent water. If the boots is torn apart. I would consider replacing it as you will get an alignment done after your repair I suppose.
When you put it back together .. If the front end test good and the thread are in good condition, you are fine. If the boots when you took it out has hole in it.. the water can get in.
If you feel unsure. You can get a needle size grease adapter to put on a grease gun. You poke a hole and can fill the rubber end. If the grease is there is prevent water. If the boots is torn apart. I would consider replacing it as you will get an alignment done after your repair I suppose.
Before I got a 3/8 battery impact … I did everything with a 3/8 air ratchet. I got a powerful one .. It out beat the impact to tell you the truth. If I could crack it on the first try. I had the advantage to use the ratchet itself to crack it free then keep going with the air to do the rest of the job.
I use the battery impact mainly to disassemble engine when they are out of the vehicle.. You don’t want the air hose to be in the way..
The issue is if people use it to do brake… you can remove pin bolt with it… installing them in the other hand… if you don’t know how much torque would be apply (battery half charge) is where people would get in trouble.
The shop i’m at experience it… a caliper going into a mag is visually like THE WOLVERINE jamming its claw through it.
battery is to pampered yourself after few year of experience. I see to many young tech who rely on them and bite them in the ass with a come back… from under/over torquing.
Before I got a 3/8 battery impact … I did everything with a 3/8 air ratchet. I got a powerful one .. It out beat the impact to tell you the truth. If I could crack it on the first try. I had the advantage to use the ratchet itself to crack it free then keep going with the air to do the rest of the job.
I use the battery impact mainly to disassemble engine when they are out of the vehicle.. You don’t want the air hose to be in the way..
The issue is if people use it to do brake… you can remove pin bolt with it… installing them in the other hand… if you don’t know how much torque would be apply (battery half charge) is where people would get in trouble.
The shop i’m at experience it… a caliper going into a mag is visually like THE WOLVERINE jamming its claw through it.
battery is to pampered yourself after few year of experience. I see to many young tech who rely on them and bite them in the ass with a come back… from under/over torquing.
Air is awesome, really powerful if you get a decent one (forget the entry level one) You need a compressor and if you bring it somewhere else that don’t have the same fitting… you can be screwed.
No access to air .. no impactBattery operated. I have a 3/8 one and i’m fairly happy with it. It seems every year what they come up in manner of better battery autonomy and output power is getting better. Being said I worked 8 year in the trade before purchasing a battery one and I would suggest you to wait that will be your first impact. It’s nice as you use them everywhere as long as you have access to electricity to have a fresh recharge pack as soon as the first one give up. The 1/2 inch one are pretty good as you can remove wheel nut.. but removing wheel nut on a dually (140ft/lbs and over) will be the ultimate test, especially if they never been service or start to seize.
I used a dewalt electric to do a wheel bearing on a malibu and was impress as I didn’t expect to crack the axle nut free. The size is what kinda sucks, but they are made for construction work. You can use as long as you have electricity, at home, camping if you have a generator 😉 I would consider one if I was camping with a pickup and fifth wheel to replace a flat on the size of the road…. Our tire guy actually use them as they have a floor for themselve and it pass the test. You will get constant power over a battery one.
If you have a compressor at home, I would go air impact first for 1/2 inch anyway. If you want 3/8 you could go with battery .. there is some sweet deal for 1/4 and 3/8 bundle.
Air is awesome, really powerful if you get a decent one (forget the entry level one) You need a compressor and if you bring it somewhere else that don’t have the same fitting… you can be screwed.
No access to air .. no impactBattery operated. I have a 3/8 one and i’m fairly happy with it. It seems every year what they come up in manner of better battery autonomy and output power is getting better. Being said I worked 8 year in the trade before purchasing a battery one and I would suggest you to wait that will be your first impact. It’s nice as you use them everywhere as long as you have access to electricity to have a fresh recharge pack as soon as the first one give up. The 1/2 inch one are pretty good as you can remove wheel nut.. but removing wheel nut on a dually (140ft/lbs and over) will be the ultimate test, especially if they never been service or start to seize.
I used a dewalt electric to do a wheel bearing on a malibu and was impress as I didn’t expect to crack the axle nut free. The size is what kinda sucks, but they are made for construction work. You can use as long as you have electricity, at home, camping if you have a generator 😉 I would consider one if I was camping with a pickup and fifth wheel to replace a flat on the size of the road…. Our tire guy actually use them as they have a floor for themselve and it pass the test. You will get constant power over a battery one.
If you have a compressor at home, I would go air impact first for 1/2 inch anyway. If you want 3/8 you could go with battery .. there is some sweet deal for 1/4 and 3/8 bundle.
Black and orange is the 12V going to the dritributor/coil . If you don’t have 12 volt go check the ign fuse.
The camshaft sensor as well as crank angle are inside the distributor. The igniter is also in the distributor. You probably want to remove the cap and go check with a test light if the igniter does it job. It’s a pretty simple circuit
Black and orange is the 12V going to the dritributor/coil . If you don’t have 12 volt go check the ign fuse.
The camshaft sensor as well as crank angle are inside the distributor. The igniter is also in the distributor. You probably want to remove the cap and go check with a test light if the igniter does it job. It’s a pretty simple circuit
sounds like a starter to me. You can here the solenoid pulling the gear out but the rotation doesn’t occur. Some starter will finally start after many attempt. Usually cold weather makes it worse. The engine doesn’t even crank right?
sounds like a starter to me. You can here the solenoid pulling the gear out but the rotation doesn’t occur. Some starter will finally start after many attempt. Usually cold weather makes it worse. The engine doesn’t even crank right?
On those model if you have any issue with the transfer case It should display a warning in your dash. being said the transfer case should be fine.
When all wheel are in the air. Put it in 4 hi or low. The front drive shaft should turn. If so Most likely you are good (the transfer case maybe worn (bearing or gear but lets not go there)
Now you want to look at the actuator on the front differential. You can remove it and have a friend to switch from 2H to 2Low and see if it move.. If it move. You can have a broken axle or worn spline and such in the front differential. If it doesn’t move you can use a screwdriver and go push where the solenoid would push to lock the axle to the diff… get a friend to turn 1 wheel and see if the drive shaft move. Hopefully that is the case. Now you would need to check for power and ground at the actuator to confirm movement before you put an actuator in
I’ve replace lots of actuator, I also got few broken axle. So It’s important not to throw part in as a diff rebuild is in the 1200 and a actuator is in the 150
On those model if you have any issue with the transfer case It should display a warning in your dash. being said the transfer case should be fine.
When all wheel are in the air. Put it in 4 hi or low. The front drive shaft should turn. If so Most likely you are good (the transfer case maybe worn (bearing or gear but lets not go there)
Now you want to look at the actuator on the front differential. You can remove it and have a friend to switch from 2H to 2Low and see if it move.. If it move. You can have a broken axle or worn spline and such in the front differential. If it doesn’t move you can use a screwdriver and go push where the solenoid would push to lock the axle to the diff… get a friend to turn 1 wheel and see if the drive shaft move. Hopefully that is the case. Now you would need to check for power and ground at the actuator to confirm movement before you put an actuator in
I’ve replace lots of actuator, I also got few broken axle. So It’s important not to throw part in as a diff rebuild is in the 1200 and a actuator is in the 150
Welding if you have access is the way to go. The header has flex pipe on that model??? If you can get access , ciment muffler would maybe do the trick but it is the flex who broke it in the first place I would imagine. So taking it out to repair or replace would be your solution.