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The smell of bleach is a good sign. It is sign of clean diesel burning. I can’t tell you if new additive or new change in diesel is a cause but you don’t have to worry
The only thing I would double check is it is coming through the air vent as the exhaust can leak in the engine bay. So that will be the any thing that could be an issue, In the same time if you will breath it from that problem. I suppose they would notice head ache and their eye burning..
Diesel is safe that way over gasoline. That will give you lots of symptoms
K!
The smell of bleach is a good sign. It is sign of clean diesel burning. I can’t tell you if new additive or new change in diesel is a cause but you don’t have to worry
The only thing I would double check is it is coming through the air vent as the exhaust can leak in the engine bay. So that will be the any thing that could be an issue, In the same time if you will breath it from that problem. I suppose they would notice head ache and their eye burning..
Diesel is safe that way over gasoline. That will give you lots of symptoms
K!
The best way would be to smoke test the whole system. There may be 1 place what may leak, but I have seen actually vehicle with 2 leaks. Being said smoke test is the easiest way to go.
If it’s large smoke can be seen, or the engine can behave differently.
Those job require specific equipment. Not to discourage you
Peace
The best way would be to smoke test the whole system. There may be 1 place what may leak, but I have seen actually vehicle with 2 leaks. Being said smoke test is the easiest way to go.
If it’s large smoke can be seen, or the engine can behave differently.
Those job require specific equipment. Not to discourage you
Peace
Now that I was done I forgot 1 line that my last employer told me as I was 7 year in the trade
You need to remember that you have as much knowledge as a doctor. (a doctor would say we are wrong but screw him). If you are in a independent shop and you fix everything and you try everything to not turn job out to the competition (dealer or another independent shop), That means you need to go fetch the information to keep yourself updated, that means you sometime have to make your own tool, that means you need to think outside the box.
Being said. If you can do all those, then you are as skill as a general doctor but in a different aspect of life.
Now there is some customer that just look at you as a place to get there work done not even considering that aspect. And there is other customer that love their garage for that particular reason and would swear by it.
Employer look at 3 things also, EXPERIENCE, KNOWLEDGE, TALENT.
EXPERIENCE. you learned that by doing mistake (come back, screwing up). Don’t take my word that you need to screw up to have experience, but people with experience won’t redo the same mistake
KNOWLEDGE. school will give you the basic. A shop is the reality we live in. And there is one thing worst than Ignorance in that case. It’s the illusion of knowledge (this is what you want the shop across the road to be banana:
TALENT. This is what You want to prove to the shop that you get hire from at this moment. I don’t really need to explain that one at this moment.
So you can have somebody with knowledge no talent no experience…. or experience no knowledge and talent…. and so on…. If you have the 3 of them…. then usually those guy have already their shop.
Cheers!!!!
Now that I was done I forgot 1 line that my last employer told me as I was 7 year in the trade
You need to remember that you have as much knowledge as a doctor. (a doctor would say we are wrong but screw him). If you are in a independent shop and you fix everything and you try everything to not turn job out to the competition (dealer or another independent shop), That means you need to go fetch the information to keep yourself updated, that means you sometime have to make your own tool, that means you need to think outside the box.
Being said. If you can do all those, then you are as skill as a general doctor but in a different aspect of life.
Now there is some customer that just look at you as a place to get there work done not even considering that aspect. And there is other customer that love their garage for that particular reason and would swear by it.
Employer look at 3 things also, EXPERIENCE, KNOWLEDGE, TALENT.
EXPERIENCE. you learned that by doing mistake (come back, screwing up). Don’t take my word that you need to screw up to have experience, but people with experience won’t redo the same mistake
KNOWLEDGE. school will give you the basic. A shop is the reality we live in. And there is one thing worst than Ignorance in that case. It’s the illusion of knowledge (this is what you want the shop across the road to be banana:
TALENT. This is what You want to prove to the shop that you get hire from at this moment. I don’t really need to explain that one at this moment.
So you can have somebody with knowledge no talent no experience…. or experience no knowledge and talent…. and so on…. If you have the 3 of them…. then usually those guy have already their shop.
Cheers!!!!
I would consider a independent shop as well (the size and reputation of the shop have to be consider as well).
When I started I was gas jockey for a service station, so I started doing tire repair/oil change and being helper for the journeyman.
Doing oil change on customer that are 5 year returning customer were actually not bad as I would look for everything but knowing that even if I would call a repair that was a must to my eye, I would get a honest answer from the tech that I should consider that repair a should over a must. So the first year were a lot of learning over repair value.
I change to other independent shop once I got few year of experience with the basic already learn and other aspect of the industry that was still unknow to me (a/c and transmission for example). So I became a good general tech with lets say area that I prefer working over other.
I won’t bash on quick lube and dealer but you need to visualize that at the lube center, they try to upsale on every other service than oil change but are they really trained for it (wide range of vehicle model and the skill of their staff) so do you really want to learn from those?
At the dealer, there is 2 kind of vehicle potential. The warranty (you will fix engineer mistake) which is actually a proper repair according to me but then you become a part changer. And then you have repair off warranty where the shop make money as long as you are a performer. The good side of a dealer is that you will have training as they invest in you to keep you. So if you pick am area that you like (let say electronic for instance), then you can become a electronic tech instead of being a general tech. The downfall of the dealer is that some tech loose their diagnostic skill as they get told what to do as you follow manufacturer dictation.
So I believe you should go for an independent shop that HAS the TIME to train you, and experience will kick in. After few year you might turn out that you like the design of a brand over another one, or you dislike specific job.
You need to remember that a automotive technician is a pneumatic tech, a hydraulic tech, a electrician, a electronician if I can make up a word, a ventilation tech and so on. Being said if you are 18 I’m sure you can learn way faster than somebody who would take that trade at 30 being a janitor since 18 🙂 but the industry evolve so fast now, that once you get 5 year of experience it is pretty clever to think that if you enjoy a brand or a type of repair over another, then to work on what you enjoy the most.
Hope I explained it properly I can write english but It is not my first language
I would consider a independent shop as well (the size and reputation of the shop have to be consider as well).
When I started I was gas jockey for a service station, so I started doing tire repair/oil change and being helper for the journeyman.
Doing oil change on customer that are 5 year returning customer were actually not bad as I would look for everything but knowing that even if I would call a repair that was a must to my eye, I would get a honest answer from the tech that I should consider that repair a should over a must. So the first year were a lot of learning over repair value.
I change to other independent shop once I got few year of experience with the basic already learn and other aspect of the industry that was still unknow to me (a/c and transmission for example). So I became a good general tech with lets say area that I prefer working over other.
I won’t bash on quick lube and dealer but you need to visualize that at the lube center, they try to upsale on every other service than oil change but are they really trained for it (wide range of vehicle model and the skill of their staff) so do you really want to learn from those?
At the dealer, there is 2 kind of vehicle potential. The warranty (you will fix engineer mistake) which is actually a proper repair according to me but then you become a part changer. And then you have repair off warranty where the shop make money as long as you are a performer. The good side of a dealer is that you will have training as they invest in you to keep you. So if you pick am area that you like (let say electronic for instance), then you can become a electronic tech instead of being a general tech. The downfall of the dealer is that some tech loose their diagnostic skill as they get told what to do as you follow manufacturer dictation.
So I believe you should go for an independent shop that HAS the TIME to train you, and experience will kick in. After few year you might turn out that you like the design of a brand over another one, or you dislike specific job.
You need to remember that a automotive technician is a pneumatic tech, a hydraulic tech, a electrician, a electronician if I can make up a word, a ventilation tech and so on. Being said if you are 18 I’m sure you can learn way faster than somebody who would take that trade at 30 being a janitor since 18 🙂 but the industry evolve so fast now, that once you get 5 year of experience it is pretty clever to think that if you enjoy a brand or a type of repair over another, then to work on what you enjoy the most.
Hope I explained it properly I can write english but It is not my first language
I would get 2 but you might not need to crack the second open.
Being said, if you want to perform your transmission fluid filter and fluid change. You may want to consider buying a case of 12.
You can replace your line keeping the return line disconnected at the transmission. Drop your fluid from the pan (You may want to count how much is in the pan, so you can refill before you start it) once you start it with the assistance of maybe 2 other person, get on to start it and ready to shut it off on command and antoher person at the hose collecting the fluid in a measured container, then add fluid as it’s coming out (you will flush the converter at this moment).
So let’s say you drop 3 liter and then you flush another 4 liter, that make you to 7 but keep in mind that you might have to use more for the line being empty.
I believe those transmission pan are using silicon, so if you are not use to do those repair, then you may want to forget about everything I just suggested you.
This technique is as good or better than those service machine from repair shop as you don’t contaminate your new fluid as it doesn’t go back in the pan because you take it out with the new fluid and you also flush the cooler.
I would get 2 but you might not need to crack the second open.
Being said, if you want to perform your transmission fluid filter and fluid change. You may want to consider buying a case of 12.
You can replace your line keeping the return line disconnected at the transmission. Drop your fluid from the pan (You may want to count how much is in the pan, so you can refill before you start it) once you start it with the assistance of maybe 2 other person, get on to start it and ready to shut it off on command and antoher person at the hose collecting the fluid in a measured container, then add fluid as it’s coming out (you will flush the converter at this moment).
So let’s say you drop 3 liter and then you flush another 4 liter, that make you to 7 but keep in mind that you might have to use more for the line being empty.
I believe those transmission pan are using silicon, so if you are not use to do those repair, then you may want to forget about everything I just suggested you.
This technique is as good or better than those service machine from repair shop as you don’t contaminate your new fluid as it doesn’t go back in the pan because you take it out with the new fluid and you also flush the cooler.
If you have a headgasket issue like you retired mechanic says… you have to confirm coolant loss, engine overheating problem, loss of ventilation heat.
A weak PCV can cause the same issue as a vacuum leak. If you look at the oil color which hapen to be milky, that can be cause by coolant… but you will rule this one out by looking at you coolant level and/or do an oil change and save the oil, it’s goign to be a pass or fail test.
In other hand, short running period doesn’t give the chance to the pcv system to extract humidity, so you can expect kinda the same color (i’m colorblind) You need to take your driving habid in consideration in this case.
At first view it seems your engine is not measuring proper air flow. If you are replacing PCV for instance. HAve a good look at the air filter and the piping from the air duct to the throttle body. The throttle body can be gummed up as well. giving no window for idle
If you have a headgasket issue like you retired mechanic says… you have to confirm coolant loss, engine overheating problem, loss of ventilation heat.
A weak PCV can cause the same issue as a vacuum leak. If you look at the oil color which hapen to be milky, that can be cause by coolant… but you will rule this one out by looking at you coolant level and/or do an oil change and save the oil, it’s goign to be a pass or fail test.
In other hand, short running period doesn’t give the chance to the pcv system to extract humidity, so you can expect kinda the same color (i’m colorblind) You need to take your driving habid in consideration in this case.
At first view it seems your engine is not measuring proper air flow. If you are replacing PCV for instance. HAve a good look at the air filter and the piping from the air duct to the throttle body. The throttle body can be gummed up as well. giving no window for idle
If you really want to feel safe about the first second of start up. remove your fuel pump fuse or relay so the engine will only crank at starter speed. so that will give the chance for the oil pump to deliver some oil all across.
If you were building an engine from scratch like a muscle car for instance, you really need to prime the oil pump system…. as it will start with the oil pump discharge so the oil need to go all over the place.
Being said your system is not empty… if you feel worried than crank it with any fuel so your lifter should technically charge…. but you can feel confident you may here abit of lifter noise on start up but then the pressure will take over and it should get quite…..
I get that lifter noise from doing oil change once in a while on different vehicle,
Hope you feel better about it now
Kevin
If you really want to feel safe about the first second of start up. remove your fuel pump fuse or relay so the engine will only crank at starter speed. so that will give the chance for the oil pump to deliver some oil all across.
If you were building an engine from scratch like a muscle car for instance, you really need to prime the oil pump system…. as it will start with the oil pump discharge so the oil need to go all over the place.
Being said your system is not empty… if you feel worried than crank it with any fuel so your lifter should technically charge…. but you can feel confident you may here abit of lifter noise on start up but then the pressure will take over and it should get quite…..
I get that lifter noise from doing oil change once in a while on different vehicle,
Hope you feel better about it now
Kevin
For the cylinder/piston itself make sure that there is no debris from cleaning and you will be fine.
Make sure you remove any liquid or debris from the cylinder head bolt hole as it screw up your torquing overall. you need to follow dealer procedure as far as using bolt dry or applying sealant or maybe a bit of lube.
I would lube every friction point on the lifter/pushrod/rocker that are involve in your rebuilding process. you can use the assembly white grease or any superior product.
Once started let it warm up like 5 minutes to get some oil flowing but I recommend doing and oil change when the engine is warm over boiling hot. There is always risk of having a bit of coolant in he engine from when you remove the head. being said you dont want to run engine with coolant as it does more damage than throwing a hand full of sand in the crankcase.
Hope that help