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On those model what hold the TIMING CRANK SPROCKET is the keyway. so if you crack it with the starter you will only loosen the bolt up to 1/4 turn which wont hurt anything. I would recommend a helper to crank the key for you as you keep a visual on the breaker bar
Mazda and ford have bad design on there 2.0l as you need a tool to set the cam and the crankshaft togheter (not the sprocket) then you bolt the sprocket which have no keyway together (only holding with pressure) so you need new bolt and locktite to be confident of nothing loosen up causing interference
Volkswagen is the same as you have the main bolt and then the pulley bolt (4) mount on that sprocket. So if you remove the main bolt you are kinda screwed and that will cost you more time and headache
Hope that help
I might have the wrong vehicle but might turn out to be fairly accurate. You need a adapter that fit into the drain/inspection hole. At specific temperature it should seep from it. if not you need more fluid. Of it’s pissing like a river, you are overfull.
So to double check transmission fluid, you will need a scanner with transmission PID.
I might have the wrong vehicle but might turn out to be fairly accurate. You need a adapter that fit into the drain/inspection hole. At specific temperature it should seep from it. if not you need more fluid. Of it’s pissing like a river, you are overfull.
So to double check transmission fluid, you will need a scanner with transmission PID.
changing a throttle body to a bigger one give you the opportunity to swallow more air. Being said all the air piping with the maf have been tune to maximum performance to begin with.
Let say you can increase the air volume being swallowed by the engine by changing the stroke or piston size, or either exhaust system. You will have to consider increasing the air duct size to maximum performance. You need to remember that a maf will go from 0 to 5 volt of range (you wont reach 5 volt but want to get as close to it at WOT). so small change to a engine don’t need maf replacement.
In the case that you need to increase the maf flow piping size for serious modification. a new mass air flow andor ecu calibration apply.
So don’t get all carried away with MAF as is it more a programmer task than just swapping part.
For example if you increase exaust size, bigger t.b. and a performance filter. Good chance are that you won’t max out the mass air flow range. A graphic of the mass air flow operation would be increase at some place over RPM if you would like to compare from the original set up.
Exhaust backpressure play a role on swallowed air at idle. so you can gain air flow at higher speed if you are straight pipe but loose it at idle…. so being said you want more air overall you need to change the engine displacement considerably to justify touching the mass flow and ECU and injector.
The best example would be to add a supercharger on any engine you think of (forget about the durability of the engine itself) now you would have a way wider range of airflow involve. You would need a mass airflow who can measure super low ( like less than 1 volt) of idle and close to 5 volt with WOT with supercharged at its peak power) now there is a shit ton of difference in air flow. But what does the computer need to understand about 4.5 volt in airflow compare to a naturaly aspirated vehicle.
Anyway I’m done now 😛 MAF and computer and injector must be kept last in tuning for minor modification
Wrong mass air flow measurement would have effect in fuel trim and if it is a fuel enrichment (fuel trim always being on the positive side) you will loose in fuel economy and expect converter failure
changing a throttle body to a bigger one give you the opportunity to swallow more air. Being said all the air piping with the maf have been tune to maximum performance to begin with.
Let say you can increase the air volume being swallowed by the engine by changing the stroke or piston size, or either exhaust system. You will have to consider increasing the air duct size to maximum performance. You need to remember that a maf will go from 0 to 5 volt of range (you wont reach 5 volt but want to get as close to it at WOT). so small change to a engine don’t need maf replacement.
In the case that you need to increase the maf flow piping size for serious modification. a new mass air flow andor ecu calibration apply.
So don’t get all carried away with MAF as is it more a programmer task than just swapping part.
For example if you increase exaust size, bigger t.b. and a performance filter. Good chance are that you won’t max out the mass air flow range. A graphic of the mass air flow operation would be increase at some place over RPM if you would like to compare from the original set up.
Exhaust backpressure play a role on swallowed air at idle. so you can gain air flow at higher speed if you are straight pipe but loose it at idle…. so being said you want more air overall you need to change the engine displacement considerably to justify touching the mass flow and ECU and injector.
The best example would be to add a supercharger on any engine you think of (forget about the durability of the engine itself) now you would have a way wider range of airflow involve. You would need a mass airflow who can measure super low ( like less than 1 volt) of idle and close to 5 volt with WOT with supercharged at its peak power) now there is a shit ton of difference in air flow. But what does the computer need to understand about 4.5 volt in airflow compare to a naturaly aspirated vehicle.
Anyway I’m done now 😛 MAF and computer and injector must be kept last in tuning for minor modification
Wrong mass air flow measurement would have effect in fuel trim and if it is a fuel enrichment (fuel trim always being on the positive side) you will loose in fuel economy and expect converter failure
You will have to check voltage in and out of the inertia switch when the issue occur. And if it fail then just bypass it. It a safety device you can but should bypass permanently. Forget a spark issue for now as it is clearly a fuel supply problem. Fuel delivery is another issue that can happen but fuel SUPPLY need to be address first. as you know it is the main issue right now
You will have to check voltage in and out of the inertia switch when the issue occur. And if it fail then just bypass it. It a safety device you can but should bypass permanently. Forget a spark issue for now as it is clearly a fuel supply problem. Fuel delivery is another issue that can happen but fuel SUPPLY need to be address first. as you know it is the main issue right now
I share the same thought. A friend went in a communication course. You know H-can and such, and without being new to him, they had a lots of diagnostic material to cover.
During the course, he had pertinent question that the teacher couldn’t explain.
The only thing the tutor told them was : I’m here to show you how it works. How you are going to find to find a efficient way to cure the problem is your business, even the engineer have not though about it.
Mechanic is always evolving and it is what motivates me at the beginning of the day and is where our diagnostic skill make us have better judgment overall
I share the same thought. A friend went in a communication course. You know H-can and such, and without being new to him, they had a lots of diagnostic material to cover.
During the course, he had pertinent question that the teacher couldn’t explain.
The only thing the tutor told them was : I’m here to show you how it works. How you are going to find to find a efficient way to cure the problem is your business, even the engineer have not though about it.
Mechanic is always evolving and it is what motivates me at the beginning of the day and is where our diagnostic skill make us have better judgment overall
http://www.launchtechusa.com/assets/products/products.html
they are base in europe I believe but sells in north america and such
http://www.launchtechusa.com/assets/products/products.html
they are base in europe I believe but sells in north america and such
If you planning to only do that job once…. just pay a shop to transfer part and call it a day.
If spring require replacement then you can look for complete strut (I had who came with the main nut secure properly)
I have brannick 7400 and that works great. but you are looking at over 600$ equipment. So you need to tale that into consideration. The rod with clamp are inexpensive, but they may cause you headache if they slide and might not work if you plan to replace the spring (spring fully decompress). And they might not compress enough on thick spring
If you planning to only do that job once…. just pay a shop to transfer part and call it a day.
If spring require replacement then you can look for complete strut (I had who came with the main nut secure properly)
I have brannick 7400 and that works great. but you are looking at over 600$ equipment. So you need to tale that into consideration. The rod with clamp are inexpensive, but they may cause you headache if they slide and might not work if you plan to replace the spring (spring fully decompress). And they might not compress enough on thick spring
Go check Launch they have different platform. I can’t assure you of the compatibility on specific model but might worth calling or email their sale/tech department