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Nice !!! just catch everything you can from that drain plug so you can measure how much extra was in it, just put the cap back whenever it is only pouring at a slow rate
I was reading my post over and over trying to look if I was clear and concise. I guess I did an ok job 😉
Nice !!! just catch everything you can from that drain plug so you can measure how much extra was in it, just put the cap back whenever it is only pouring at a slow rate
I was reading my post over and over trying to look if I was clear and concise. I guess I did an ok job 😉
If you added fluid before it would be normal to see a good flow coming out. You are the owner as I suppose, so if there is no leak (would bring the fluid level lower than expected) and you never add any fluid andor know that nobody added fluid before.
Then you fluid should be fine. BUT you have to meet all the condition to inspect it PROPERLY.
Vehicle level. fluid at proper temperature. been though all the gear. You check it when the car is in park.
If you can’t confirm the temperature of the transmission. it is pointless to continue this topic.
If your transmission fluid is higher than the specification. it will of course pour at a higher rate. and that will make you doubt.
confirm that YOU can inspect it to manufacturer direction before posting your result.
Hope that helps
If you added fluid before it would be normal to see a good flow coming out. You are the owner as I suppose, so if there is no leak (would bring the fluid level lower than expected) and you never add any fluid andor know that nobody added fluid before.
Then you fluid should be fine. BUT you have to meet all the condition to inspect it PROPERLY.
Vehicle level. fluid at proper temperature. been though all the gear. You check it when the car is in park.
If you can’t confirm the temperature of the transmission. it is pointless to continue this topic.
If your transmission fluid is higher than the specification. it will of course pour at a higher rate. and that will make you doubt.
confirm that YOU can inspect it to manufacturer direction before posting your result.
Hope that helps
You want to look for a higher capacity alternator overall. Back in the day they use to change pulley size to change at different speed.
You don’t want to spend any effort to replace only 1 component inside the alternator as every piece need to be upgraded to compensate for more current being produce. Only changing the winding will be the same thing as replacing the pulley, (only to name few part as the rectifier would need to be of a higher grade to handle more current)
Aftermarket offer now different output, you just need to know how much more gain you need see if it is available.
You want to look for a higher capacity alternator overall. Back in the day they use to change pulley size to change at different speed.
You don’t want to spend any effort to replace only 1 component inside the alternator as every piece need to be upgraded to compensate for more current being produce. Only changing the winding will be the same thing as replacing the pulley, (only to name few part as the rectifier would need to be of a higher grade to handle more current)
Aftermarket offer now different output, you just need to know how much more gain you need see if it is available.
Then I would consider the level being good if you are level, have put the transmission in every gear and then went back to PARK, and look at it with the temperature at 40.c
It should pour the same way you do an oil change and you wait for the oil pour droplet by droplet. If it pour the same way then you are good. If it pour like a river you may want to let some come out as you are overfull
Then I would consider the level being good if you are level, have put the transmission in every gear and then went back to PARK, and look at it with the temperature at 40.c
It should pour the same way you do an oil change and you wait for the oil pour droplet by droplet. If it pour the same way then you are good. If it pour like a river you may want to let some come out as you are overfull
you have to be level to do the check up first if you have a hoist good… if not all side of the vehicle will need to be lift as the check up is done under the vehicle.
You might be able to do it by only lifting the right front wide and removing the tire and cover to get access the inspection plug.
1. The plug is just under the right front axle and located on the front side and toward the engine (imagine looking at the left front tire if you are kneeling in front of the right front tire). The plug is either 10 or 11mm i believe. so you can remove it with the engine off and then screw it back by hand. cause you will have to remove it when the engine is running.
2. You need to get the fluid to 40.c or 104. f so you will need to consider having a scanner to give you the data. If you can’t confirm the temperature, you will have a wrong reading as if you have proper fluid level. So you may want to stop there as it is 1 condition to check PROPERLY fluid level.
3. If you can check it PROPERLY, you need to make sure you shift the transmission in every position for few second prior to put it back in park. Fluid need to be check in PARK. Then you will remove the plug when running in park, there is some fluid who should seep from the plug. if none, you need more fluid. if its pissing like a river you are overfill. this is why fluid temperature is IMPORTANT.
4. I would have a little clear cup to pickup what will come out of the transmission. You want to look for clean color no residue. Removing the Pan would tell you more about metal and residue but at this point you don’t want to go that deep.
You should feel confident doing that inspection and spend the time to look for leak around the output seal (where the axle shaft meet with the transmission), at the oil pan, torque converter and transmission cooler and line. If you only find sweating but no actual leak, I can insured you that there is no reason you should feel skeptical about being low in fluid
Good luck
you have to be level to do the check up first if you have a hoist good… if not all side of the vehicle will need to be lift as the check up is done under the vehicle.
You might be able to do it by only lifting the right front wide and removing the tire and cover to get access the inspection plug.
1. The plug is just under the right front axle and located on the front side and toward the engine (imagine looking at the left front tire if you are kneeling in front of the right front tire). The plug is either 10 or 11mm i believe. so you can remove it with the engine off and then screw it back by hand. cause you will have to remove it when the engine is running.
2. You need to get the fluid to 40.c or 104. f so you will need to consider having a scanner to give you the data. If you can’t confirm the temperature, you will have a wrong reading as if you have proper fluid level. So you may want to stop there as it is 1 condition to check PROPERLY fluid level.
3. If you can check it PROPERLY, you need to make sure you shift the transmission in every position for few second prior to put it back in park. Fluid need to be check in PARK. Then you will remove the plug when running in park, there is some fluid who should seep from the plug. if none, you need more fluid. if its pissing like a river you are overfill. this is why fluid temperature is IMPORTANT.
4. I would have a little clear cup to pickup what will come out of the transmission. You want to look for clean color no residue. Removing the Pan would tell you more about metal and residue but at this point you don’t want to go that deep.
You should feel confident doing that inspection and spend the time to look for leak around the output seal (where the axle shaft meet with the transmission), at the oil pan, torque converter and transmission cooler and line. If you only find sweating but no actual leak, I can insured you that there is no reason you should feel skeptical about being low in fluid
Good luck
Failure to converter happen from mixture richer than normal. Some factory converter are really weak and give no rooms for let’s say heavy misfire over a short period of time (ford is a good example).
Failure can be as obvious as ignition misfire, or injector failure, any mechanical issue that would leave unburned or raw fuel going in the cat
Failure can also be from a dirty MAF that would change your fuel trim on the positive side without triggering a Engine Code. I start to see that a lot from GM vehicle that always have new air filter but don’t get the MAF cleaned and then comes tune up time (let say over 100’000km) the cat fail without having any symptoms prior to it. Some people don’t see the need to service those as they think it’s a electronic device it works or doesn’t, there is no such benefit to clean it.
I believe the new kind and tougher to diagnose failure will come with new type of fuel that include alcohol and now the stochiometric value is alter just a bit as it is on the lean side. so then, their is unnecessary enrichment from the O2 sensor, but there is nothing you can really do, as it is a engineer problem, they are coming with different strategy to adapt an recognize the alcohol content. The only solution will be computer update for dealer engineer as they are in a time crush to release a vehicle with no flaw.
Ending, converter fail from richer mixture
Failure to converter happen from mixture richer than normal. Some factory converter are really weak and give no rooms for let’s say heavy misfire over a short period of time (ford is a good example).
Failure can be as obvious as ignition misfire, or injector failure, any mechanical issue that would leave unburned or raw fuel going in the cat
Failure can also be from a dirty MAF that would change your fuel trim on the positive side without triggering a Engine Code. I start to see that a lot from GM vehicle that always have new air filter but don’t get the MAF cleaned and then comes tune up time (let say over 100’000km) the cat fail without having any symptoms prior to it. Some people don’t see the need to service those as they think it’s a electronic device it works or doesn’t, there is no such benefit to clean it.
I believe the new kind and tougher to diagnose failure will come with new type of fuel that include alcohol and now the stochiometric value is alter just a bit as it is on the lean side. so then, their is unnecessary enrichment from the O2 sensor, but there is nothing you can really do, as it is a engineer problem, they are coming with different strategy to adapt an recognize the alcohol content. The only solution will be computer update for dealer engineer as they are in a time crush to release a vehicle with no flaw.
Ending, converter fail from richer mixture
100% agree with Karl.
I’m the lead tech where I work and the only time when I feel bad for the apprentice is when you have so much work that you need to dictate their task as NOW I don’t want you to take your time to understand the why we do it this way. I want you to do this as this vehicle needs to be out of the shop by 5p.m.
It’s the reality that I they need to understand and we need to explain them diplomatically. There is one thing I told them tho is that I will never give them the answer right away when we have the time for it as the little mouse in their head need to run. There is also other scenario when I don’t have the answer myself and they assume I should be there to tell them what is wrong. The only thing that they can learn from this particular case is how a tech will approach a problem the most efficiently (time wise) and can conclude that in any case before starting to strip everything apart as you can be misconduct toward a wrong diagnostic. ALWAYS GO BACK TO BASIC.
Einstein was saying: If you can’t explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough.
So compare to pretend I will find it then explain it. I will show you how I will diagnostic with the best of my knowledge and hopefully that will motivate you to do the same as you being part of the shop team. That has to be your motto even if you don’t have the experience.
It’s kinda nice when you feel like a big reference, but that is stressful when the shop sees you a mechanic god when they are wrong as you are just a human being doing its best with the knowledge and material to work with. Some tech are moody as they want to share information to a tech as long as the tech is willing to stay, and I feel the same when you share stff that took you 7 years to get comfortable with when you know they won’t say in the trade andor will go work for the competition across the street.
But at the end we should all want to share as much knowledge cause it sucks less when you know where you’re doing!! 😉
100% agree with Karl.
I’m the lead tech where I work and the only time when I feel bad for the apprentice is when you have so much work that you need to dictate their task as NOW I don’t want you to take your time to understand the why we do it this way. I want you to do this as this vehicle needs to be out of the shop by 5p.m.
It’s the reality that I they need to understand and we need to explain them diplomatically. There is one thing I told them tho is that I will never give them the answer right away when we have the time for it as the little mouse in their head need to run. There is also other scenario when I don’t have the answer myself and they assume I should be there to tell them what is wrong. The only thing that they can learn from this particular case is how a tech will approach a problem the most efficiently (time wise) and can conclude that in any case before starting to strip everything apart as you can be misconduct toward a wrong diagnostic. ALWAYS GO BACK TO BASIC.
Einstein was saying: If you can’t explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough.
So compare to pretend I will find it then explain it. I will show you how I will diagnostic with the best of my knowledge and hopefully that will motivate you to do the same as you being part of the shop team. That has to be your motto even if you don’t have the experience.
It’s kinda nice when you feel like a big reference, but that is stressful when the shop sees you a mechanic god when they are wrong as you are just a human being doing its best with the knowledge and material to work with. Some tech are moody as they want to share information to a tech as long as the tech is willing to stay, and I feel the same when you share stff that took you 7 years to get comfortable with when you know they won’t say in the trade andor will go work for the competition across the street.
But at the end we should all want to share as much knowledge cause it sucks less when you know where you’re doing!! 😉
On those model what hold the TIMING CRANK SPROCKET is the keyway. so if you crack it with the starter you will only loosen the bolt up to 1/4 turn which wont hurt anything. I would recommend a helper to crank the key for you as you keep a visual on the breaker bar
Mazda and ford have bad design on there 2.0l as you need a tool to set the cam and the crankshaft togheter (not the sprocket) then you bolt the sprocket which have no keyway together (only holding with pressure) so you need new bolt and locktite to be confident of nothing loosen up causing interference
Volkswagen is the same as you have the main bolt and then the pulley bolt (4) mount on that sprocket. So if you remove the main bolt you are kinda screwed and that will cost you more time and headache
Hope that help