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I don’t see anything wrong with the wiring the material use is different, but if something would be odd you will look for burnt black color, or corrosion (which shouldn’t be there as it is inside the vehicle)
I got you the schematic for the fuel pump. We are going to leave it as that for now so nobody get overwhelmed.
http://www.shubee.com/thickster-gloves.html?gclid=CNK_n9mA6rwCFRSPfgodQBEAwQ
I’m in love with those one. They are on the thick side so some time you would need to remove 1 glove for the finest work require during tear down. But man they are tough. You know if you glove will wrap around you impact socket when you remove a wheel nut, but you can easily do 3 to 4 turn and the glove would stretch but not break. Our tire guys love them comes the winter changeover rush.
The only annoying thing if you can sweat pretty bad in them come those summer hot days.
I actually stretch them as long as possible using brake cleaner and cleaning them, I can do a full week if I’m doing light duty work.
If you have a lots of bearing to grease to old fashion way. those are the glove and when you are done, you just flip them outside in .
Best glove for toughness. I get them from napa for the interested one 😉
Then the FORD nitrile glove come next in my opinion
http://www.shubee.com/thickster-gloves.html?gclid=CNK_n9mA6rwCFRSPfgodQBEAwQ
I’m in love with those one. They are on the thick side so some time you would need to remove 1 glove for the finest work require during tear down. But man they are tough. You know if you glove will wrap around you impact socket when you remove a wheel nut, but you can easily do 3 to 4 turn and the glove would stretch but not break. Our tire guys love them comes the winter changeover rush.
The only annoying thing if you can sweat pretty bad in them come those summer hot days.
I actually stretch them as long as possible using brake cleaner and cleaning them, I can do a full week if I’m doing light duty work.
If you have a lots of bearing to grease to old fashion way. those are the glove and when you are done, you just flip them outside in .
Best glove for toughness. I get them from napa for the interested one 😉
Then the FORD nitrile glove come next in my opinion
When checking power and ground. don’t use a led test light or multimeter, Use jumping wire you can make yourself and an old headlamp beam. You will create a decent load that will be a pass/fail. If you do it that way you will be sure of your call as testing with open circuitry is a total way to misdiagnose. a LED tester will give you a false reading as it use minimum current. If you wire hold on only 1 string, both of the tool I tell you to avoid using could and will light up or give you 12v.
Follow those instruction as its pretty simple everything is internal and those module are junk.
1. Disconnect the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). Verify the EBCM powers and grounds are good.
2. Check for corrosion or a bad connection between the EBCM and the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
3. If all OK, replace the EBCM.
You can use a scanner and test the pump itself when the fault is present to confirm prior to tear down
When checking power and ground. don’t use a led test light or multimeter, Use jumping wire you can make yourself and an old headlamp beam. You will create a decent load that will be a pass/fail. If you do it that way you will be sure of your call as testing with open circuitry is a total way to misdiagnose. a LED tester will give you a false reading as it use minimum current. If you wire hold on only 1 string, both of the tool I tell you to avoid using could and will light up or give you 12v.
Follow those instruction as its pretty simple everything is internal and those module are junk.
1. Disconnect the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). Verify the EBCM powers and grounds are good.
2. Check for corrosion or a bad connection between the EBCM and the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
3. If all OK, replace the EBCM.
You can use a scanner and test the pump itself when the fault is present to confirm prior to tear down
as long as you have access at your fuel pressure gauge right away when it fail is good enough. If you can make you montage permanent that would be awesome but not a must.
prior to run a wire all across the battery to your fuel pump. Go under the right side of the instrument panel. You will find a little box (inertia switch) its act almost like a breaker as you can reset it by pressing a button mount on it. check in your owner manual. Anyway once you get at it you will find a connector with 2 wire. one being the battery power coming from a relay I believe (need to look at the schematic) and the other one going right to the pump. so you can actually supply battery power at the second wire I’m talking about.
Or you can use the first wire as I think the issue is in the switch itself…. what happen is that it wears the same way as old point in early ignition design …. or very old fuse that you see in house that you need to screw (people were sanding the build up on the fuse from age).
Feeding power at this place would definitely tells you if the issue is on the power supply side (fornt of engine) or being a possible fuel pump issue (or wiring on the back section on the vehicle)
as long as you have access at your fuel pressure gauge right away when it fail is good enough. If you can make you montage permanent that would be awesome but not a must.
prior to run a wire all across the battery to your fuel pump. Go under the right side of the instrument panel. You will find a little box (inertia switch) its act almost like a breaker as you can reset it by pressing a button mount on it. check in your owner manual. Anyway once you get at it you will find a connector with 2 wire. one being the battery power coming from a relay I believe (need to look at the schematic) and the other one going right to the pump. so you can actually supply battery power at the second wire I’m talking about.
Or you can use the first wire as I think the issue is in the switch itself…. what happen is that it wears the same way as old point in early ignition design …. or very old fuse that you see in house that you need to screw (people were sanding the build up on the fuse from age).
Feeding power at this place would definitely tells you if the issue is on the power supply side (fornt of engine) or being a possible fuel pump issue (or wiring on the back section on the vehicle)
wysetech is right. The transmission most likely came from the engine not operating smoothly. Not being able to go at specific rpm on command (when you step on the pedal).
that won’t be an issue once the converter will be replace.
wysetech is right. The transmission most likely came from the engine not operating smoothly. Not being able to go at specific rpm on command (when you step on the pedal).
that won’t be an issue once the converter will be replace.
Don’t think I’m being rude but from what I read all the way through that is what I understand.
Your symptom would be it: feel like no power, running out of gas and cause it to not start, being intermittent makes it tough for you to pin point test the cause (fuel, spark)
Being said, you already tested the fuel pressure once or twice and it is UNDER SPECIFICATION when it happen.
This is what you have to address FIRST, don’t worry about injector has they don’t have proper pressure to operate with, don’t worry about spark as the mixture is not even right from the injector to begin with.
Now some people with poor diagnostic skill would say: the fuel pressure is wrong so I will install a new pump. WRONG!!!
I would be impress to only see a fuel filter being the cause. Now before to be 100% sure that the pump is at fault, you need to check power and ground at the fuel pump connector with the pump hookup at the moment it fail. To do so you if the best world to do such a test, you would need to have the box remove to have quick access to the connector when it occur. that would be too much time. You might be able to back probe the pigtail if you get access to it through the frame tho.
I read that you install a new pump with no good result. Am I right?? So now you need to install the fuel pressure gauge again, and hopefully the issue reoccur for you without to much time involve as we want to see fuel pressure at SPECIFICATION this time. Nobody can assume the fuel pressure is good at this time if you follow me right;)
I’ve seen few brand new fuel pump failing right out of the box. aftermarket and OEM, but it is rare, not impossible but rare.
If your pressure still low when it happen, you still have a fuel pressure SUPPLY problem. I can’t call the inertia switch from my desk but there is chance you loose 12volt + at the pump from the switch. It’s the easiest part to bypass if the issue occur as the part is easy to get to and you just need to bypass it like hot wiring a car in your favorite blockbuster!!! 😉
If it doesn’t affect fuel pressure when bypass, now you will have to check power and ground at the pump. which will turnout to be a bit more time consuming.
If the pressure is at SPECiFICATION when it occur. Now you have another issue that need to be address.
Don’t think I’m being rude but from what I read all the way through that is what I understand.
Your symptom would be it: feel like no power, running out of gas and cause it to not start, being intermittent makes it tough for you to pin point test the cause (fuel, spark)
Being said, you already tested the fuel pressure once or twice and it is UNDER SPECIFICATION when it happen.
This is what you have to address FIRST, don’t worry about injector has they don’t have proper pressure to operate with, don’t worry about spark as the mixture is not even right from the injector to begin with.
Now some people with poor diagnostic skill would say: the fuel pressure is wrong so I will install a new pump. WRONG!!!
I would be impress to only see a fuel filter being the cause. Now before to be 100% sure that the pump is at fault, you need to check power and ground at the fuel pump connector with the pump hookup at the moment it fail. To do so you if the best world to do such a test, you would need to have the box remove to have quick access to the connector when it occur. that would be too much time. You might be able to back probe the pigtail if you get access to it through the frame tho.
I read that you install a new pump with no good result. Am I right?? So now you need to install the fuel pressure gauge again, and hopefully the issue reoccur for you without to much time involve as we want to see fuel pressure at SPECIFICATION this time. Nobody can assume the fuel pressure is good at this time if you follow me right;)
I’ve seen few brand new fuel pump failing right out of the box. aftermarket and OEM, but it is rare, not impossible but rare.
If your pressure still low when it happen, you still have a fuel pressure SUPPLY problem. I can’t call the inertia switch from my desk but there is chance you loose 12volt + at the pump from the switch. It’s the easiest part to bypass if the issue occur as the part is easy to get to and you just need to bypass it like hot wiring a car in your favorite blockbuster!!! 😉
If it doesn’t affect fuel pressure when bypass, now you will have to check power and ground at the pump. which will turnout to be a bit more time consuming.
If the pressure is at SPECiFICATION when it occur. Now you have another issue that need to be address.
Use either a wrench (non ratchet style) or a 3/8 breaker bar.
The only reason it turn like crazy is that your cam lobe apply pressure and it wants to release that pressure either clockwise or counterclockwise. As long as you know where your teeth were line up to begin with then put them back in place without the use of a ratchet (you will swear to god every time the camshaft will turn on you.
If for whatever the reason you are not to sure once the belt is in place. mark with a bright yellow or white metal pen the timing mark on the sprocket and there reference point and take picture facing straight forward at the timing component (not taking the picture from an angle). Then send your picture if in doubt.
Use either a wrench (non ratchet style) or a 3/8 breaker bar.
The only reason it turn like crazy is that your cam lobe apply pressure and it wants to release that pressure either clockwise or counterclockwise. As long as you know where your teeth were line up to begin with then put them back in place without the use of a ratchet (you will swear to god every time the camshaft will turn on you.
If for whatever the reason you are not to sure once the belt is in place. mark with a bright yellow or white metal pen the timing mark on the sprocket and there reference point and take picture facing straight forward at the timing component (not taking the picture from an angle). Then send your picture if in doubt.
You will have to test battery and alternator first. You may have a battery with a dead cell or just worn battery. A battery act like a cushion its fully operational… no spike change in voltage as it has lots of capacity. and with a good functioning alternator everything should be smooth.
With a poor battery, it put lots of stress on the alternator if you use lots of amperage. You might notice your headlight fluctuating in power at different RPM as RPM define your available alternator output.
Being said you can have a weak battery and/or weak alternator (burnt diode), if you did not purchased the battery yet , have a battery load test on the battery, if it fail, replace and carry on next the alternator test.
If both actually pass test as it would be strange then you may want to consider the possibility of a battery drain for this particular scenario (the battery dead after running it)
I will think you will have a good battery not getting charge properly (so its loosing it’s charge as you drive it) or a weak battery that doesn’t keep charge, you need to rule out the battery first tho.
You could have issue with both but make sure the battery is not at fault. You may have wiring connection problem, but let’s talk about it after those preliminary testYou will have to test battery and alternator first. You may have a battery with a dead cell or just worn battery. A battery act like a cushion its fully operational… no spike change in voltage as it has lots of capacity. and with a good functioning alternator everything should be smooth.
With a poor battery, it put lots of stress on the alternator if you use lots of amperage. You might notice your headlight fluctuating in power at different RPM as RPM define your available alternator output.
Being said you can have a weak battery and/or weak alternator (burnt diode), if you did not purchased the battery yet , have a battery load test on the battery, if it fail, replace and carry on next the alternator test.
If both actually pass test as it would be strange then you may want to consider the possibility of a battery drain for this particular scenario (the battery dead after running it)
I will think you will have a good battery not getting charge properly (so its loosing it’s charge as you drive it) or a weak battery that doesn’t keep charge, you need to rule out the battery first tho.
You could have issue with both but make sure the battery is not at fault. You may have wiring connection problem, but let’s talk about it after those preliminary test