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Ok so initially I’d say somebody has been f***ing with the electrics and obviously the thermostat. It sounds as though they have taken a live feed from an ignition live straight to the fan causing it to run all the time, to solve an over heating problem.
Complete guess but if what I have said is true then the added wire may be on its way out and giving too much resistance to power the fan at idle speed, when you rev the engine the alternator increases the power just enough to make it kick in.
But to be honest I could be totally off track here, when a bodged job has been done previously it could be anything.
What you do know is that the motor in the fan is good.
The temp gauge works so it’s not the tempeture sender
You need to replace the thermostat
You need to check the wiringKbr
Ok so initially I’d say somebody has been f***ing with the electrics and obviously the thermostat. It sounds as though they have taken a live feed from an ignition live straight to the fan causing it to run all the time, to solve an over heating problem.
Complete guess but if what I have said is true then the added wire may be on its way out and giving too much resistance to power the fan at idle speed, when you rev the engine the alternator increases the power just enough to make it kick in.
But to be honest I could be totally off track here, when a bodged job has been done previously it could be anything.
What you do know is that the motor in the fan is good.
The temp gauge works so it’s not the tempeture sender
You need to replace the thermostat
You need to check the wiringKbr
[quote=”LouTheHondaGuy” post=114262]ok so my radiator fan is not working, even when i turn my ac on. It used to turn on when i turned on the battery but now not at all. If i give it some throttle then the fans will kick on till i let off of it and then they will stop spinning. What is the problem?[/quote]
I think it’s electric, but there are still a few things I’m confused about.
What do you mean by “it used to turn on when I turned the battery on”
It’s not normal for the AC to activate the cooling fan, unless your talking about the heater fan?
Does the car over heat?
Tbh I’m a little confused. You need to explain more.
Kbr
[quote=”LouTheHondaGuy” post=114262]ok so my radiator fan is not working, even when i turn my ac on. It used to turn on when i turned on the battery but now not at all. If i give it some throttle then the fans will kick on till i let off of it and then they will stop spinning. What is the problem?[/quote]
I think it’s electric, but there are still a few things I’m confused about.
What do you mean by “it used to turn on when I turned the battery on”
It’s not normal for the AC to activate the cooling fan, unless your talking about the heater fan?
Does the car over heat?
Tbh I’m a little confused. You need to explain more.
Kbr
Sounds like rust, oil floats on water.
Your coolant went down is the interesting bit!
How long did it take to go down?
How much by?
Have you checked for leaks?
Sounds like rust, oil floats on water.
Your coolant went down is the interesting bit!
How long did it take to go down?
How much by?
Have you checked for leaks?
I agree with no common sense, I don’t think it’s the discs.
In addition, it may sound silly but I’ve seen things as simple as cheap or damaged wheel trims cause symptoms like this.
I would also look towards your cv joints and wheel bearings.
Kbr
I agree with no common sense, I don’t think it’s the discs.
In addition, it may sound silly but I’ve seen things as simple as cheap or damaged wheel trims cause symptoms like this.
I would also look towards your cv joints and wheel bearings.
Kbr
Any access to atmosphere will cause coolant to be lost due to evaporation so poor threads on the reservoir cap won’t help.
There is more t the cap than meets the eye, in the UK we call it a PVRV (Pressure Valve Release Valve) it allows the coolant to reach 100c plus without boiling due to increased pressure, it releases pressure when it gets too high and allows air back in when the coolant cools again. So if you think it’s faulty, replace it.
Sometimes if your head gasget is blown on the compression stroke of the otto cycle air wil be blown past the faulty gasget in to the coolant, the pump will push the air around the system and it will make its way back to the coolant reservoir. When you start the engine while cold take the PVRV off and watch the coolant for a while, if it’s less than 100c and you can see bubbles… It’s not boiling it’s getting rid of compression air.
I strongly suspect from your pressure test that you will see this because you found it hard to start after doing this test.
Imagin this: let’s say you have a gasget blown from coolant to cylinder 2 & 3 one would be on compression one would be on exhause going into induction. You do your pressure test and fill the remaining sace inthe cylinder with coolant. You now have wet cylinders with a very small amount of water in. Your pressure test looses 1psi over 5 mins, which corrosponds with a small fluid loss. You then turn the engine over. Cylinder 1 and 4 fire but 2 & 3 are wet and therefore the engine won’t start, you continue to turn the engine over 2 & 3 dry out and the engine fires on all four cylinders. That’s what I think happened.
Now consider this. You have the same gasget fault on 2 & 3 but this time 2 is at the end of the power stroke going into exhause and 3 is at the end of induction going into compression. Your test shows a psi drop of 15 psi over 5 mins, you’ve filled both cylinders with water. You turn the key and cylinder 3 goes into a hydrostatic lock (water in the cylinder that won’t compress and therefore locks the engine). You take out the spark plug and tuen the engine over again, you see a jet of water fly out of the hole.
Just saying what could have happened, I know you’ve identified several other faults but I strongly lean towards the gasget. This is why I’m saying another pressure test will almost certainly confirm this, especially if you turn the engine over by hand while doing the test and leave the pressure on for longer.
However seeing bubbles in the coolant will also confirm the gasget is blown. It’s a big job, to be sure I’d do both if you don’t see the bubbles.
Any access to atmosphere will cause coolant to be lost due to evaporation so poor threads on the reservoir cap won’t help.
There is more t the cap than meets the eye, in the UK we call it a PVRV (Pressure Valve Release Valve) it allows the coolant to reach 100c plus without boiling due to increased pressure, it releases pressure when it gets too high and allows air back in when the coolant cools again. So if you think it’s faulty, replace it.
Sometimes if your head gasget is blown on the compression stroke of the otto cycle air wil be blown past the faulty gasget in to the coolant, the pump will push the air around the system and it will make its way back to the coolant reservoir. When you start the engine while cold take the PVRV off and watch the coolant for a while, if it’s less than 100c and you can see bubbles… It’s not boiling it’s getting rid of compression air.
I strongly suspect from your pressure test that you will see this because you found it hard to start after doing this test.
Imagin this: let’s say you have a gasget blown from coolant to cylinder 2 & 3 one would be on compression one would be on exhause going into induction. You do your pressure test and fill the remaining sace inthe cylinder with coolant. You now have wet cylinders with a very small amount of water in. Your pressure test looses 1psi over 5 mins, which corrosponds with a small fluid loss. You then turn the engine over. Cylinder 1 and 4 fire but 2 & 3 are wet and therefore the engine won’t start, you continue to turn the engine over 2 & 3 dry out and the engine fires on all four cylinders. That’s what I think happened.
Now consider this. You have the same gasget fault on 2 & 3 but this time 2 is at the end of the power stroke going into exhause and 3 is at the end of induction going into compression. Your test shows a psi drop of 15 psi over 5 mins, you’ve filled both cylinders with water. You turn the key and cylinder 3 goes into a hydrostatic lock (water in the cylinder that won’t compress and therefore locks the engine). You take out the spark plug and tuen the engine over again, you see a jet of water fly out of the hole.
Just saying what could have happened, I know you’ve identified several other faults but I strongly lean towards the gasget. This is why I’m saying another pressure test will almost certainly confirm this, especially if you turn the engine over by hand while doing the test and leave the pressure on for longer.
However seeing bubbles in the coolant will also confirm the gasget is blown. It’s a big job, to be sure I’d do both if you don’t see the bubbles.
I agree from what you’ve said especially with regards to it being hard to start after pressure testing that it is the head gasget.
I would fix the ‘possible’ leaking hose just to be sure that you’re not losing all of your coolant there before saying for sure that it’s the HG.
I’m not going to suggest that you keep hiring kit, but in hindsight it would be interesting to do a second pressure test, but next time leave it on for longer and check for water in the cylinders before attempting to start the engine.
If there is water in a/some cylinders, turn the car over without the spark plugs in before starting it again. This will push the water out through the holes as appose to bending and breaking the internal workings.
Kdr
I agree from what you’ve said especially with regards to it being hard to start after pressure testing that it is the head gasget.
I would fix the ‘possible’ leaking hose just to be sure that you’re not losing all of your coolant there before saying for sure that it’s the HG.
I’m not going to suggest that you keep hiring kit, but in hindsight it would be interesting to do a second pressure test, but next time leave it on for longer and check for water in the cylinders before attempting to start the engine.
If there is water in a/some cylinders, turn the car over without the spark plugs in before starting it again. This will push the water out through the holes as appose to bending and breaking the internal workings.
Kdr