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Yes, it does have a “<– PUSH" marked in the plastic above the ignition switch. Thanks for the advice on the graphite powder too.
The interior of my car is mint even for It's age so I don't like the idea of pulling panels but I guess it can't be helped.
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=170768]Shift lock slot?
I’m going to assume you mean the ignition lock cylinder so just ignore this if I’m wrong.
How about your steering wheel column, is it locked in place? Try rocking the steering wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key.[/quote]The shifter is stuck in Park, and the key will not enter the slot next to the shifter that’s made to release the lock, I have no idea how a distributor/rotor failure can be linked with a shift lock, especially since the car was in Drive when the rotor went out and turned off the engine.
The owners manual states to full insert the car’s key in the slot, I will try some compressed air tomorrow, and maybe some WD40?
See: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-myhP6tRv4U/hqdefault.jpg (Not the same car)
Well, I think I found the problem! LOL
Aftermarket distributors are not the way to go… 🙁I still can’t get the car out of park, and cannot fully insert the key in the shift lock slot. Ideas?
Thanks a lot for replying, I don’t have access to the garage where the car is kept until tomorrow morning, but a new belt was installed about 2 years ago, with less than 20k miles on it, so I’m thinking that It’s not likely the belt, will definitely check it though!
Alright, so that was a lot easier than I thought.
I lifted the car, put her in drive and the passenger wheel had a hard time turning, or was turning intermittently, to begin with (with no acceleration just in D) the passenger wheel wouldn’t even move while the driver wheel was spinning freely.
I’ve gone ahead and ordered a CV axle from A1 Auto, brand new. I don’t see myself ordering these parts re-manufactured in the future.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=168848]What you have done is also known as cracking a bearing( splitting it and putting it back together). It may be fine, it may not, It may start making noise, or it may be quiet for 60k miles… there cannot be any space to allow moisture and contaminates into the bearing, if so, the life will be reduced…
So to sum it up. Cracking a bearing.. not a good thing to do if you want longevity out of it ..
Karl[/quote]
Thanks for the response Karl, glad I didn’t put it back together but let me ask you; if this was your car – would you take the gamble?
Also considering I spent about $300 in tools and parts to do this myself… this is just discouraging haha! I can understand why most just say “take it to a shop!” but I see the tools as an investment.Also, why are they designed to “crack”?! (You don’t have to answer this, it was a question out of frustration)
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