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Sounds like a really odd issue, do you have to switch to N, than back to R every time you lift off the gas?
Do you sometimes have to go between N/R a couple of times for it to work?
Does your [S4] light on the dash flash? Or any other check/maint. Light come on?
How many miles on the car, and was to transmission fluid ever changed?
Did you check the fluid level? (warm up the car to normal operating temp, park on level ground, and check the transmission dipstick.
Try doing a wheel rotation, see if the sound goes to the rear.
Also might be a cv drive shaft, do you have an ABS light on?
I’d also go on a short drive (like around the neighborhood) after the car is completely cold and then grab the axle shaft, feel if the suspected side is hotter than the other, the friction would have caused a lot of heat.
Also check the boots for rips/cracks, you’ll also notice grease flung around where it’s torn.I’d opt for the Bridgestone tires over the Goodyear all seasons simply based on the fact that I had a bad hydroplaning incident with GY all seasons, not trying to scare you into choosing Bridgestone cause personally I always now buy expensive performance tires, Eric’s mentioned several times how important good tires are, and how they drastically change the feel of the handling.
Now in regards to the inner tie rod, I’d leave it be, I personally know that Moog makes excellent parts but if the job is already done I wouldn’t redo it.
Hey, welcome to the forum!
I’ve removed and cleaned a few IACV’s in my time working on Honda’s, it really depends how accessible the part is, for instance on my Integra is in a tight spot between the intake manifold and firewall, not easy to work with, or get tools on bolts, the work itself is straight forward just a hassle, I also highly recommend getting a pick set designed for removing hoses, there is coolant that goes through some IACV’s (to keep them from freezing) and the lines tend to fuse, especially on your 14 year old RSX.
Let us know if you need more help!P.S. Took me about 4 hours to remove, clean, and reinstall the IACV on my 90 Integra (The grandfather to your RSX 🙂 )
Hey Jim, welcome to the forums!
From my experience with older Honda’s I’d highly recommend getting the fuel pressure tested before spending money on parts.
Does your Accord feel down on power, or does the exhaust smell rich?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, this is something that’s commonly overlooked.
Regards.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=171928]Not the easiest thing to fudge timing on a modern vehicle.
But an old school method was to use a vacuum gauge at idle and adjust to the highest reading of vacuum.
Not sure how well that will work in your case.[/quote]I don’t own one sadly.
I’m thinking if the car seems a bit sluggish, would it be better to advance the timing from there? My biggest concern is causing knock, I will get the car timed I just need to get by for a week, I also don’t have time/money for trial and error with night classes and homework.
Hey,
I’m not at the point where I feel comfortable with changing a head gasket but could it be possible the coolant is still contaminated? Did you change the coolant and bleed the system completely of air?
Just my 2 cents, sometimes the easy stuff is simply overlooked on the bigger projects.
Good luck!
This really is the nightmare! Lol.
The only advice I can offer os from my past experience, and basically goes along the lines of finding a progressive auto tuning shop, for at least your clutch issues, but it does seem you’re no stranger to working on your own car.
One thing is for sure though, the service department at your local stealership can’t be trusted to do more than the basics, my family and I have had bad experiences with a few of the major brands.
I wish you the best of luck!I’d start with having all the codes pulled up before you spend $1, had the same issue on my 90 Integra 2 summers ago, I ditched the sending unit for an actual oil pressure gauge, which confirmed the oil pump was failing.
Good luck.
Just for the sake of anyone looking this up in the future, yes that distributor was busted, I’d never recommend anyone buy cheap no name distributors especially since you can’t get OEM replacement parts for them! Hard lesson learned.
I replaced the distributor with a used OEM unit I found for cheap, still WAY better off than with a new off-brand unit. Car started right up!
Also, for the record you can use a manual ’92 Integra distributor on a automatic ’90 Integra B18A1 non-vtec, the only noticable difference is theres a metal notch that lines up with a notch on the cap, either cut the notch off, or buy a manual replacement cap (if you ever need to). Eric actually has a video from 6 years ago where he did exactly that.
Late Saturday update:
The new rotor does not fit the (dizzy) bushing of the aftermarket unit. I’m stuck for now. Trying to contact some friends that are into modifying Honda’s to see if they have a spare B18 distributor.[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=170855]All the blown fuses…………can you attach picture of where this fuse box is located?[/quote]
In the driver footwell by the hood latch release, standard stuff.Anyway folks, replaced all blown fuses, it does seem to be related to the distributor rotor going out, the car now comes out of park!! Using the brake pedal even, massive relief on that front!
I also did further research and it turns out a failing rotor can cause the car to shudder and shake (guessing its due to misfires) which it has been doing for over a year, and here I was replacing hundreds of dollars of worn suspension parts just to feel no difference.
I also checked the “dizzy” bushing the rotor mounts to and felt no play so I’m confident a new cap/rotor will fix both issues.
I’ll be picking up the parts later today and give this post (hopefully) a final update.
Alright, as an update – I ordered a new cap/rotor I’ll try to salvage that distributor since a new one is $150+ and I’m unemployed.
Also discovered about half the fuses in my driver side footwell are blown.
Also, thanks for the heads up on the graphite powder, but that shift lock is completely mechanical, It’s not even really a key hole, a flat head could toggle it, I have yet to take any interior trim off, I’ll try the new fuses and cap/rotor, might also need a brake light switch, but they’re $25?! if the car has cruise control (which mine does).
Thanks folks!
Just so we’re all on the same page, this is what I’m experiencing.
Maybe I blew a fuse when the distributor rotor went wobbly in the cap.
Also if I remember correctly I didn’t hear the click when pressing on the brake, initially I dismissed it since the brake lights still came on, and I was all caught up in the moment of being stranded, and waiting 5 hours for my insurance to find me a tow truck.I’ll keep you posted Rob, thank you kindly for taking the time to look up those videos on locks and tumblers!