Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Your issue seems beyond me, but I’d like to ask why you need to replace your plug wires twice a year? That seems excessive.
Also, I make it a habit to replace my car battery every 4 years, I always seem to start having issues around 4-5 years.If anyone else might have an idea on this, it would be greatly appreciated.
I have no idea why but the issue is only noticable at cold start/during cold weather, probably due to the contracting of materials but can’t say for sure.
[quote=”WyrTwister” post=179804]Power or manual brakes ?
Did you find a power steering leak ?
God bless
Wyr[/quote]The 90 integra does have power assisted brakes.
No PS leakFirst thing’s first, check your Automatic Transmission Fluid level, you might be leaking it. Check it with a warm car on a level surface.
Speaking of which, when was the last time it was changed? Remember to use exclusively Honda ATFhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dJZuxkGzF0
Worst case scenario the syncro’s in the transmission are worn, that repair will be near what the car is worth but let’s not jump the gun.
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=175560]First thing siphon the excess oil and see if the oil light stops flickering and stays off.
Second just because it was overfilled doesn’t necessarily mean the pump is now bad.
Do you live in an area that does emissions testing and if so removing the cat is not an option.[/quote]
The oil light was flickering before he overfilled the engine, drained the oil and installed a cheap oil pressure gauge to verify the pump is failing. We’ll be tacking that this weekend.
Thanks for all the replies folks, I’ve isolated the issue to air pockets in the cooling system after I cleaned my FITV, and timing.
I also know for a fact 2nd gen Integra’s don’t have a crankshaft position sensor, the sensor you’re thinking of in the disributor is the “crank angle sensor”, Eric talks about it in his integra distributor replacement video, he also mentioned he’s never seen one go bad (though it could be possible). I’m also replacing the CTS for good measure since It’s going on 28 years old. I’ll update this post if bleeding the cooling system, having the timing set right, and lastely replacing the coolant temp sensor remedies the stalling issue.
I now also strongly suspect the IACV due to fluctuating idle and how the unit is burning hot to the touch, even after I cleaned it last summer (hotter than the intake manifold It’s mounted to, and it has coolant lines going to it). I’m sure the temp is normal but the idle could affected by air in the coolant system according to Eric’s “bleeding a cooling system” video.
[quote=”terryf” post=175223]I had problem with stalling before and it lead me to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is you car equipped with that?[/quote]
It doesn’t seem like my ’90 Integra has that sensor. Thanks for the idea though.
[quote=”Rob781″ post=175151]what you need to do is check to see if it has spark when its not starting and bring a can of starter fuild with you so if it doesnt start you can see if its a feul problem by spraying it in the intake[/quote]
Thanks, I’ll get a can tomorrow. My car does crank after it stalls out, but doesn’t start until like 45 minutes after It’s good and cool. Can the fuel system be strongly effected by normal engine bay heat, the temp gauge never rises above normal.
Would you think a bad/failing Idle Air Control Valve be related at all? I felt the unit and It’s VERY hot to the touch after only 10-15 minutes of idling the car trying to recreate the problem.
*Finally, I didn’t get my igniting timing done due to financial constraints after I rebuilt my distributor, but a friend advised me that this might be a cause due to timing, but it doesn’t make sense how timing would just cause the engine to stall out after 30 minutes of normal operation (from my house, to my sisters college)
From my POV and this is just my opinion.
Scotty is great for high level overviews, and usually oversimplifies a job.
ETCG gives you more of an experience as a video, he’s hands on with good experienced advice along the way.
And Chrisfix gives you the basic step-by-steps in doing a job.
But as ETC stated, doing video work while also trying to fix cars in a timely manner is pretty difficult and time consuming.
I now understand why I saw someone duct tapped those foam noodles on the crossbars.
Being 6’4” I’ve had my share of “tall people problems” so I feel for you buddy.
So as an update, I set the distributor to where it doesn’t trigger a CEL, but in the couple mile test drives I notice that the car shudders strangely like i’ve never felt before, I also tried to short the connector in the passenger foot well (as per Eric’s video on acura integra ignition timing) but the CEL doesn’t stay on like it’s supposed to, anyone have any ideas? I’ve tried 5 different wires (including the papper clip), but the CEL goes right off after 3 seconds from turning the key to “on”
I’ll get a multimeter on the connector tomorrow to test it, I’d like to avoid cutting the connector if at all possible.