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[quote=”aaronac8″ post=156347]It turned out to be a flat tire…just to bring everyone up to date.[/quote]
yea that”ll do it. Sort of a reverse vacuum leak
[quote=”Moralm27″ post=156348]I have a 02 Honda Accord coupe. First time has was on E (light on) pumped gas and 1 min after putting gas, stalls about to die out while at the stop light. I placed on neutral and ref on gas to try to keep running. As I drove about half a mile back home it stopped. It happened again this morning. My gas was running low light has not came on yet, put gas and again 1 min after while at stop light it does Same thing again. Any suggestions? This last time I did top off gas. First time, my husband put gas I don’t know if he topped it off. But I know we both tend to do that. Does that have anything to do with it? Also been very cold here In. Seattle. Please help. Thank you.[/quote]
throw some gas line dryer in it available at any auto store
[quote=”ElizabethS” post=156264]Hello. I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 6.0. It has been making a high pitch noise, but only at cold start with temperatures below freezing. It lasts approximately 10-30 seconds. I can’t seem to locate where the trouble is coming from under the hood. Power steering fluid levels are good. Antifreeze levels are good, both in the radiator and the reservoir. It doesn’t matter if I run the heater or not, at start it happens either way. It doesn’t really sound like a belt issue. My novice ear hears metal. But I am not 100%. My best description is high pitch. I have been searching other forums and haven’t found any other trucks like mine with this issue. However, other vehicles of different makes and models are showing this problem. On those vehicles, it was suggested to check the secondary air pump bearing, replace the air valve or air check valve- asap, check belts for glazing, I do have heat. No check engine light. Battery is good. For some reason, and I don’t really know why, I’m leaning towards the alternator.??? …I’m just wondering if you have any ideas that might help me at this point to identify what’s going on. I don’t want to break something that’s going to cause me worse problems in the future.
Thank you,
Elizabeth[/quote]this is a real longshot but try turning all the high draw electricial devices on right after startup to load up the alternator wipers high fan headlights with high beams see if you can get the noise to change at least it will point you in the direction of it being something belt driven. But if it were me id just ride it out till it rears its ugly head a little more frequently and regularly
[quote=”CordiaMad” post=156393]i have done 2x v6 engines i found easy to do but you do what you have to do .
reminds me of my son his a mitsubishi tech,if he gets a honda he panics lol[/quote]i know my limits and doing headgaskets is way beyond me. way too much stuff to take off
[quote=”college man” post=156361][quote=”helifino” post=156340]Getting the first part out of the way:
1988 Mazda 323 SE sedan us/non-ca sohc 2wdAll the horizontal grid lines heat up, but only in the vertical center third of the window. So, the center clears from top to bottom, but the sides stay fogged.
Sounds like a trace is not making full contact. Inspect the traces for breakage.[/quote]
[quote=”Anndy” post=156373]Hello, I am Andrew, long time follower of ETCG,thanks for all your help, I need some help today, I drive a 1995 Acura/Honda Integra RS 5 speed manual all original b18b1 and transmission, still obd1 stock besides a couple of replacements aftermarket pieces such as an exhaust,
Anyway, I was driving along in 5th gear going about 45 on the highway when suddenly the engine idle guage dropped to 0 and the power steering was not responding but the engine was still firing, the transmission was completely unresponsive, i took it out of 5th and tried 3rd gear nothing the 4th gear and still nothing while i am still rolling down the highway i am very sure the engine was still idling even though no response on the rpm gauge but i could hear the engine revving as im switching through the gears.
again, power steering was not working and the breaks were beginning to lock up as well. I safely pulled off the side of the road and completely shut the engine off, when i tried to crank it back up, nothing, it sounds like the starter is just spinning, i tried roll starting it in 1st gear and i hear the gear engage when i pop the clutch but the engine did not fire back up, any ideas what it could be? any suggestions on how to approach this. any understanding of how something like this would be able to happen? help will be great appreciated[/quote]
first thing i would do is a couple of things. first if you have a manual look over the fuses for something called an engine fuse or something closely related. If in doubt check them all.Next, inspect all the wiring at the battery and look at the voltage being put out by the battery using a multimeter. also try and follow the ground wire back to where it grounds to the block of the motor and inspect that as well.You didnt mention it but did you notice if all the dash lights(idiot lights) were on? Thisn could be an indication of a faulty charging system(alternator)Lastly if you arent already a member of a vehicle specific forum you should consider searching there or just google with vehicle specifics and problem.[quote=”marik7410″ post=156382]It turns out that the wire that was hanging outside the terminal in the picture fell off when I touched the following morning because the No Crank No Start had occurred. So I took a wire brush and gave it a good cleaning.
I remove as much crude as possible to get it as shiny as you see in the picture above. Too bad I didn’t take any pictures of the progress because I had go to work and I was press for time. I stuffed the wires into the terminal and secured it tightly. Fast forward to today, it starts first time every time.[/quote]
might want to consider putting some dilectric grease on that connection. Also although those terminals have been around for years and years they are usually listed as “test” terminals and i guess that means they arent designed to be installed long term
[quote=”Ali2627″ post=128288]Hey , I have a 2003 Dodge Caravan (not grand) and I looked around for a video to find out why it doesnt have the slider for a cabin air filter it has a small dot in the picture below it looks like the space where a filter would go but just isnt open. I think it may not come with one which is by far the most dumbest crap I have seen. Who doesn’t add a filter to stop stuff from going into your core ? And if it doesnt have one how to I clean it ? Every time I turn /ac or heat it smells super bad.
Here is a pic of what it looks like where the silder has to be
link http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg572/ali2627/download.jpgI just need a way to clean it out very good since it smells super bad if it doesnt have a filter. If it does then where would i find it i checked the glove box area and under the gove box i havnt checked from the engine bay for a cabin air filter around the fire wall area.
My question is that above and why didn’t they add a filter to keep stuff from going inside its such a b**ch move from dodge.
Thanks ! for the help everyone :D[/quote]
[quote=”Mikerich10″ post=156235]You mentioned you are familiar with the 01-07 Caravans. I actually have an 03 Chrysler Voyager and was subject to the poor designed drain tube and water got into the ducting and eventually screwed up the blower motor. The motor would still work off and on and the ac/heat atleast worked. I finally replaced the blower motor yesterday and it runs like a champ, now I have a different problem. You can hear the blower motor running at full force, but no air is circulating through any of the vents. It seems like when you move the switch to change from floor to defrost, etc, it makes no difference at all. No it feels as if I have no heat in the van at all. In your experience, what did I mess up while changing the blower motor?
Thank you in advance,
Mikerich10[/quote]typically when the air isnt changing locations it defaults to the defroster setting if thats the case its likely a vacuum leak perhaps caused by moving things around when changing the blower
no idea but doubtful i assume it would be as easy as looking for additional lines going to the rad? Manual tranny so i assume theres no tranny cooler
im assuming that due to the amount of labor involved removing the intake and heads because i would have both done as the v6 has a history of bad intake gaskets that lead to hydrolock i would go to a dealer as i feel they would be the most knowledgeable on the r&r of the parts
