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[quote=”KerbDragonRider” post=114779]Has anybody tried these?
Tyre pressure indicator valve caps.
They seem like a pretty good idea to me especially for early indication of punctures etc.
But has anybody here actually tried them?
Kerb[/quote]
I’ve used this type of valve cap in the past. The good ones are a little expensive for what they are. They can alert your attention to leaks, and since I commute about a hundred fifty plus miles a day, that can really help. It’s not a replacement for real tire pressure maintenance, just another tool.
Be advised, tire shop guys hate these things, and you’ll NEVER see them once you get your tire back. So you either have to take em off before having a flat fixed, or remember to ask for them back.
I just gave up, and check my pressure often. It’s a shame too, it’s just too easy to do a walk around at four a.m. looking at all green caps, hop in and go![quote=”KerbDragonRider” post=114779]Has anybody tried these?
Tyre pressure indicator valve caps.
They seem like a pretty good idea to me especially for early indication of punctures etc.
But has anybody here actually tried them?
Kerb[/quote]
I’ve used this type of valve cap in the past. The good ones are a little expensive for what they are. They can alert your attention to leaks, and since I commute about a hundred fifty plus miles a day, that can really help. It’s not a replacement for real tire pressure maintenance, just another tool.
Be advised, tire shop guys hate these things, and you’ll NEVER see them once you get your tire back. So you either have to take em off before having a flat fixed, or remember to ask for them back.
I just gave up, and check my pressure often. It’s a shame too, it’s just too easy to do a walk around at four a.m. looking at all green caps, hop in and go![quote=”Abzack” post=114704]My son bought this 2000 civic a year ago and have been trying to figure out this dreaded p1457 evap canister code for quit a while now. ran tests a alldata suggest and it pointed to the shut valve on the canister so we changed that , but the code comes back. I did a smoke test and have found any vacuum leaks.check the purge for operation and voltage and that seems ok. the car has 99,000 on it and it does use a quart of oil about every 500 miles .I DID a compression test on the cylinders with cyls. 4,2,1, @ 132 lbs. and #3 @ 119lbs. I see hondaa has TSB for the evap two way valve and bypass valve at the fuel tank.but have not changed these out yet . Do want to just through parts at it. also changed out the pcv valve this weekend. Any Ideas what to do from here I only have an Aultell AL519 SCan tool so I dont think I can test the individual solenoids.and the evap leak test is not supported. Need help![/quote]
Have you replaced the gas cap?
Also check to make sure the hoses to the canister are tight. Reset the light.[quote=”Abzack” post=114704]My son bought this 2000 civic a year ago and have been trying to figure out this dreaded p1457 evap canister code for quit a while now. ran tests a alldata suggest and it pointed to the shut valve on the canister so we changed that , but the code comes back. I did a smoke test and have found any vacuum leaks.check the purge for operation and voltage and that seems ok. the car has 99,000 on it and it does use a quart of oil about every 500 miles .I DID a compression test on the cylinders with cyls. 4,2,1, @ 132 lbs. and #3 @ 119lbs. I see hondaa has TSB for the evap two way valve and bypass valve at the fuel tank.but have not changed these out yet . Do want to just through parts at it. also changed out the pcv valve this weekend. Any Ideas what to do from here I only have an Aultell AL519 SCan tool so I dont think I can test the individual solenoids.and the evap leak test is not supported. Need help![/quote]
Have you replaced the gas cap?
Also check to make sure the hoses to the canister are tight. Reset the light.[quote=”LouTheHondaGuy” post=114471]OK i bought a multi meter How do i check the voltage. What do i plug the black and red wire things on the Multi meter to? The fans plugs them selves or the connections they connect to. I am a new at using one of these things,[/quote]
Kerb is correct. It doesn’t matter in this test. Unless it’s an analog meter, then I’m not sure how negative values would be shown if the leads were reversed. You’d obviously have to try both ways.
[quote=”LouTheHondaGuy” post=114471]OK i bought a multi meter How do i check the voltage. What do i plug the black and red wire things on the Multi meter to? The fans plugs them selves or the connections they connect to. I am a new at using one of these things,[/quote]
Kerb is correct. It doesn’t matter in this test. Unless it’s an analog meter, then I’m not sure how negative values would be shown if the leads were reversed. You’d obviously have to try both ways.
I’ve heard that shims can make that type of noise. Can’t say its been my experience, which seems strange, since I’ve had just about every other type of noise LOL.
I’ve heard that shims can make that type of noise. Can’t say its been my experience, which seems strange, since I’ve had just about every other type of noise LOL.
When the a/c is on, both fans should be running. One fan is for the a/c condenser, the other is the radiator’s regular cooling fan, when the a/c isn’t on,this fan should cycle every couple minutes, or as quickly as every thirty seconds.
Sometimes the air being blown from one fan will turn the blades on the other fan, giving the illusion that it’s working.
Some people will wire the cooling fan to operate anytime the engine is running.
Using a multi meter is the best way to start diagnosis. Just unplug both fans, and check for voltage. The switch must be in the on 2 position. This is the switch position where the car would be running. But you don’t have to start the car, just turn it on. Then turn the a/c to on, making sure the interior blower is on. This should cause power so BOTH fans come on.
Check for power using a multi meter or a 12v test light. Post results of this testWhen the a/c is on, both fans should be running. One fan is for the a/c condenser, the other is the radiator’s regular cooling fan, when the a/c isn’t on,this fan should cycle every couple minutes, or as quickly as every thirty seconds.
Sometimes the air being blown from one fan will turn the blades on the other fan, giving the illusion that it’s working.
Some people will wire the cooling fan to operate anytime the engine is running.
Using a multi meter is the best way to start diagnosis. Just unplug both fans, and check for voltage. The switch must be in the on 2 position. This is the switch position where the car would be running. But you don’t have to start the car, just turn it on. Then turn the a/c to on, making sure the interior blower is on. This should cause power so BOTH fans come on.
Check for power using a multi meter or a 12v test light. Post results of this test