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Kenneth

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 118 total)
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  • in reply to: IAC isn’t controlling idle properly #648787
    KennethKenneth
    Participant

      How’s the fuel pressure look?

      in reply to: P0171 code #638553
      KennethKenneth
      Participant

        [quote=”bananaspree” post=119356]There was an existing MAF problem code. At first I tried to use MAF cleaner but the code came back so I replaced it.

        I just went to Advance Auto Parts and asked if they can use the big machine to get a better reading, they said they don’t have the machine nor do they sell it. It’s $10,000 they said. I think that person was exaggerating a bit. Doesn’t these machines cost less than that? I’ll try if Auto Zone would have the big machine. I could probably post an ad on craigslist for someone to check the codes for me with a big machine, maybe for a better price than an auto shop. Most people wouldn’t have this big machine unless they owned the shop.[/quote]

        You don’t need the expensive, shop type scanner. All you need is a scanner that reads live data. That’s all you need to look for, in a scanner.
        I bought mine at harbor freight for around ninety bucks, and it also reads ABS codes. It’s made by a company that makes some pretty decent scanners. Although the same unit that says Autel on it goes for slightly less than three hundred. It’s worth a look.

        in reply to: P0171 code #648374
        KennethKenneth
        Participant

          [quote=”bananaspree” post=119356]There was an existing MAF problem code. At first I tried to use MAF cleaner but the code came back so I replaced it.

          I just went to Advance Auto Parts and asked if they can use the big machine to get a better reading, they said they don’t have the machine nor do they sell it. It’s $10,000 they said. I think that person was exaggerating a bit. Doesn’t these machines cost less than that? I’ll try if Auto Zone would have the big machine. I could probably post an ad on craigslist for someone to check the codes for me with a big machine, maybe for a better price than an auto shop. Most people wouldn’t have this big machine unless they owned the shop.[/quote]

          You don’t need the expensive, shop type scanner. All you need is a scanner that reads live data. That’s all you need to look for, in a scanner.
          I bought mine at harbor freight for around ninety bucks, and it also reads ABS codes. It’s made by a company that makes some pretty decent scanners. Although the same unit that says Autel on it goes for slightly less than three hundred. It’s worth a look.

          in reply to: P0171 p0174 . Intermittent skipping #636564
          KennethKenneth
          Participant

            Rough idle, along with lean codes, would typically indicate a vacuum leak.
            Try spraying carb cleaner around inside the engine bay. Spraying directly on and around all vacuum hoses, intake, and brake booster. As well as any other vacuum operated components, such as the fuel pressure regulator. If you’re not sure, just do a small area, and work your way around the whole top of the motor.
            Do not spray carb cleaner on the hot exhaust manifold. You can do this when the engine is cold, or use something else to spray. It just has to be a thick mist. Most people use carb cleaner, because it goes away quickly, leaving no residue like WD40 or something similar.
            Listen for a sudden, and distinct improvement in the rough idle. Once this happens, use the spray, along with visual, and also feel, to find the bad spot.

            in reply to: P0171 p0174 . Intermittent skipping #647253
            KennethKenneth
            Participant

              Rough idle, along with lean codes, would typically indicate a vacuum leak.
              Try spraying carb cleaner around inside the engine bay. Spraying directly on and around all vacuum hoses, intake, and brake booster. As well as any other vacuum operated components, such as the fuel pressure regulator. If you’re not sure, just do a small area, and work your way around the whole top of the motor.
              Do not spray carb cleaner on the hot exhaust manifold. You can do this when the engine is cold, or use something else to spray. It just has to be a thick mist. Most people use carb cleaner, because it goes away quickly, leaving no residue like WD40 or something similar.
              Listen for a sudden, and distinct improvement in the rough idle. Once this happens, use the spray, along with visual, and also feel, to find the bad spot.

              in reply to: Bleeding cooling system question #646846
              KennethKenneth
              Participant

                [quote=”maninmotion311″ post=119973]But how come no coolant mixing with the oil??[/quote]

                It happens that way sometimes. A small hole that allows cylinder pressure to get only into the coolant passages, but not into the oil. It’s not uncommon at all. It happened to me, and the coolant overflow would be filled up to the top, everyday when I got home from work.
                As others have suggested, a block tester might tell, (although it didn’t work for me) if there’s combustion gasses in the coolant.
                Also there’s a leak down tester, that would likely give a more accurate account.
                All these tools can be had from most any of the large chain auto parts stores. Autozone comes to mind, with their loan a tool program. You buy the tool at a really reasonable price. Keep it, or return it when finished, for a full refund.

                in reply to: Bleeding cooling system question #636175
                KennethKenneth
                Participant

                  [quote=”maninmotion311″ post=119973]But how come no coolant mixing with the oil??[/quote]

                  It happens that way sometimes. A small hole that allows cylinder pressure to get only into the coolant passages, but not into the oil. It’s not uncommon at all. It happened to me, and the coolant overflow would be filled up to the top, everyday when I got home from work.
                  As others have suggested, a block tester might tell, (although it didn’t work for me) if there’s combustion gasses in the coolant.
                  Also there’s a leak down tester, that would likely give a more accurate account.
                  All these tools can be had from most any of the large chain auto parts stores. Autozone comes to mind, with their loan a tool program. You buy the tool at a really reasonable price. Keep it, or return it when finished, for a full refund.

                  in reply to: Tucking and Shaving #645940
                  KennethKenneth
                  Participant

                    It’s about hiding the wires and stuff, in the engine bay. This gives a clean look to the motor. No other benefit that I know of. It looks really good, if you like that look. But it’s probably a lot of work.

                    in reply to: Tucking and Shaving #634874
                    KennethKenneth
                    Participant

                      It’s about hiding the wires and stuff, in the engine bay. This gives a clean look to the motor. No other benefit that I know of. It looks really good, if you like that look. But it’s probably a lot of work.

                      in reply to: Caliper slide pins – possible lubricants #645096
                      KennethKenneth
                      Participant

                        Isn’t plumbers grease, a silicone grease, made to lube stuff very much like caliper pins. And being a silicone product, and safe for rubber, wouldn’t it do

                        in reply to: Caliper slide pins – possible lubricants #634079
                        KennethKenneth
                        Participant

                          Isn’t plumbers grease, a silicone grease, made to lube stuff very much like caliper pins. And being a silicone product, and safe for rubber, wouldn’t it do

                          in reply to: Sticking rear disk brake #643717
                          KennethKenneth
                          Participant

                            [quote=”Far” post=118145]faulty calliper indeed, the rebuild one did it as good as new… :)[/quote]

                            Well done sir!

                            in reply to: Sticking rear disk brake #632769
                            KennethKenneth
                            Participant

                              [quote=”Far” post=118145]faulty calliper indeed, the rebuild one did it as good as new… :)[/quote]

                              Well done sir!

                              in reply to: throttle body spacer #643471
                              KennethKenneth
                              Participant

                                [quote=”topcat14″ post=118028]Will a throttle body spacer help performance on my 1996 Acura Integra ls, it has a automatic transmission[/quote]

                                1- If it could help, the manufacturer would most likely be using it already.
                                2- Even if it did help, the difference would be negligible.

                                This is a good enough argument, to not use one. But what about potential problems?
                                The air/fuel mix components are computer monitor controlled. Small changes, can cause issues not intended from the design. Creating readings, the computer interprets as trouble in the mix. What this means for you is a check engine light.
                                Bottom line is I’d have to say don’t bother with it, unless you don’t mind taking it off when it doesn’t work. And many after market parts require that existing parts be modified or otherwise altered. This mod sometimes makes it hard or nearly impossible to reverse, without buying a new throttle body, for example.

                                in reply to: throttle body spacer #632491
                                KennethKenneth
                                Participant

                                  [quote=”topcat14″ post=118028]Will a throttle body spacer help performance on my 1996 Acura Integra ls, it has a automatic transmission[/quote]

                                  1- If it could help, the manufacturer would most likely be using it already.
                                  2- Even if it did help, the difference would be negligible.

                                  This is a good enough argument, to not use one. But what about potential problems?
                                  The air/fuel mix components are computer monitor controlled. Small changes, can cause issues not intended from the design. Creating readings, the computer interprets as trouble in the mix. What this means for you is a check engine light.
                                  Bottom line is I’d have to say don’t bother with it, unless you don’t mind taking it off when it doesn’t work. And many after market parts require that existing parts be modified or otherwise altered. This mod sometimes makes it hard or nearly impossible to reverse, without buying a new throttle body, for example.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 118 total)
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