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[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=173360]I agree 100% on temp ground wires……..add a few of them. Ground issue has to be problem unless bench test is a bad machine. Maybe ask alternator rebuild place if they will loan you a alternator? I have had junkyards that will do this sometimes and I offer them $20 for the trouble.[/quote]
We were on the right track here. I got the alternator off the car and was looking at adding the grounds to the rear of the case when I decided to pull the rear cover off. This is what I found:
Immediately I noticed a missing screw/bolt around the circled area. So I pulled the alternator off an old engine I have in the shop (same 1uzfe, just non-VVTi but alternators are similar enough). Here is what it looked like:
So I took the screw out and put in the rebuilt one. The blue cover also was not on mine but that doesn’t keep it from working so I just left it alone. I went ahead and added the 2 grounds to bolts on the back of the case and ran it around to the bottom mount of the alternator when I installed it back on the car. Fired it up and got this:
FINALLY it is charging. Thank you guys for jogging my thought process enough to check this. Now I don’t know if it was that screw that fixed it or the new grounds. I can disconnect the grounds easily enough and see if it still works. If so I will remove the back case grounds and roll with it. I am sooooooo happy right now!
[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=173351]1. It tests good bench testing but not over 12V when using voltmeter at battery cables with car running?
2. I have seen this before caused by a ground issue and just went through a ground issue on a porsche that took me 3 times of changing connectors to resolve.
3. I seen you have tried very hard to isolate the ground wire from being the cause but that still could be the cause.[/quote]
Yes on 1. That is what baffles me. Maybe I can remove the stock ground cable and only rely on the 4 gauge new wire. The engine ground IS the bottom alternator bolt and the starter doesn’t have an issue so I at least know the ground is good.
After thinking more about this maybe it is something within the alternator not grounding right. When being bench tested the ground goes on a bolt on the rear cover and not the bolt hole on the case. Maybe if I run a short ground wire from the bottom alternator bolt to one or more bolts on the rear cover that may help. At least it may be worth trying before I buy a new alternator.
1. 11.8v to 12.1v
2. 5 times. 3 at oreilly 2 at the place that rebuilt it. each teat was ran at least 3 times each.[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=173325]Make sure you have 12V on heavy Bat wire with the engine off. With the vehicle running there is a white blue wire on terminal G1 should have battery voltage. If not check Alt s fuse 5A. The red blue wire is for your bulb in the dash and I think the pink blue wire is a computer monitor circuit. If all this test good the alternator is most likely bad. Also check and make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. I would install a new alternator. not a rebuilt unit.[/quote]
With the engine off I get 12.7v after fully charging it with a battery charger and letting it sit for an hour. With it running I get about 11.8-12v. The alt-s wire does have voltage. I forgot to mention I did check all fuses also. I just have been fighting this for over a month and am tired of dealing with it. A denso (OEM for this car) rebuilt alternator from Denso runs around $190. I just did not want to spend that if there was something you guys/gals could think of that I could try to get it to work. It just baffles me how the alternator tests good and works on the test bench but not on the car.
