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Well I looked under the car again while I was waiting and see a puddle. I think it’s from my car, the edge lines up with the drain plug in the bottom of the car. There was no puddle in the parking lot so the leaking started afrer I’d been driving the car a while.
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Thanks. I haven’t had a chance to try flushing the system again as I was on my way to work.
I made it to an auto zone after this post. I thought that even though the system needs a proper flushing, the overheating problem was from not having enough coolant. At the recommendation of the auto zone guy. I bought 100% coolant and then cut about half of that with water. He said that would work out to 50 50. I got to work another 5 miles after that with no problem.
I’m on the freeway to go home and the car overheated again! This timeand smelled smoke first, the temperature gage for the engine was at about the halfway point when I noticed the smell and started to see smoke. When I parked and turned the car off, there were large plumes of smoke for several minutes. That’s the worst I’ve ever seen it. I’m waiting for the car to cool….
I was going to add more coolant and water, But I’m not sure if that’s going to make it worse now? I’m worried that just pouring in more coolant is making thimgs worse now. And the coolants not leaking out I looked under the car….
Home is another 15 to 20 miles, all freeway. I can park it and work on it then I just don’t want to do major damage trying to get the car home….should I tow at this point?
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[quote=”Fopeano” post=157204]I’m pretty sure (very sure) that the belt diagram you posted is not for you car. On the front of the engine you should have the PS pump on top and the AC compressor on the bottom, with the tensioner for that belt midway down between them. Then you have the alternator on the back of the engine below the intake manifold, and it has a belt around it, the water pump pulley and the crankshaft. I did not see the correct diagram on that page you linked, but I found this page that correctly shows the belt routing:
As for what’s wrong. It’s very likely that the AC compressor clutch bearing has failed and the pulley is loose and flopping around. That is why it is noisy and rumbly when the AC/PS belt is on there. The belt is falling off the floppy compressor pulley and because it’s the inner belt and the alternator belt is outside of it, it’s swung into the way of the alternator belt and gets sheared apart around a pulley for that belt. If your battery light comes on at the same time as you lose steering assist, then you would find that the alternator belt had gotten derailed and came off instead of cutting the AC/PS belt, which you have been lucky is happening because you can keep driving the car without AC and PS if you have to. You need the alternator running to keep the battery charged and able to run the engine electrical system. With the belt off you should be able to grab the AC compressor pulley and easily feel excessive looseness.[/quote]
Awesome. Took a couple reads but I got it. Thank you. I will check the pulley or get it checked and see about getting the clutch bearing replaced.
Thank you. …..I removed the belt so I guess that leaves the tension and crankshaft pulley to be checked….???
Thank you for your guess and the video. This helped me to start somewhere with doing more research.
I’m having some trouble distinguishing the different parts of the AC though. There’s an AC compressor and an AC clutch. Since the car makes noise while it’s on regardless of whether the AC is on or not, I read that it’s the clutch that’s the problem. Is that right?
I also read that if the AC is the problem, there’s a bypass belt that’s shorter, and will keep the AC unit out of rotation completely. I wouldn’t have AC but the car can drive fine on the shorter belt. This is the option I’d prefer to go without AC.
This is great, found a page with diagrams of all the different belt setups – https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mitsubishi/eclipse/2001
I think this one’s the serpentine belt one.
