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I have a question that was not answered in your review… How much distance can you get when you throw it. If i remember correctly your harbor freight one you could get all the way across the shop with a flick of the wrist which is , to be honest, impressive.
[quote=”no_common_sense” post=161191]Fuse 9 is a wash. It supplies power to the ASD relay. Disconnecting the ECU also disables the ASD relay so that’s a wash. Any fuse blocks inside the cabin are probably irrelevant so don’t bother trying to remove it. I was only interested in the under hood block. I don’t know what to say for that grey plug. They do the same thing with the ECU. It likewise gets a black, grey, and white connector to it.
This is where I miss private messaging. I’ve been primarily been using a login to identifix and that’s a login that’s been assigned to me at work. I can’t share that with you. I used to use this link a lot for OE diagram access. It might help you out on future endeavors.[/quote]
Best Link EVAR!!! Thank you!
since it is an electric setup i would start looking at electrical issues and since it started happening when it was cold out i would change out the brushes in the electric motor that runs the rack. I dont know hondas but thats where i would start.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=161200][quote=”KableGuy” post=161116]don’t you mean rebuilt with a bad second gear and broken shift fork and several stripped/ damaged threads?[/quote]
I’m sure you got an award in school for paying attention.[/quote]
No awards. Did get alot of dirty looks when i pointed out my teachers mistakes tho…..lol
it may be whatever overheated/damaged the ignition plug may have damaged something else near by. i would inspect all of the wiring near that connector very carefully. also look at the plug that goes into the cab by the fender well that connector may have overheated and may have damage inside it that is not readily apparent.
check for vacum leaks if you cant find any get a clean piece of vac hose and hook it up to the the EGR with the engine running then suck on the other end it the engine starts running rough or stalls then you know the egr valve is working and the intake is not clogged. and it is either the ECU not able to actuate the valve or a lack of vacum issue
i had a 76 buick with an oldsmobile engine and a chevy tranny and ford rear end. it was …. interesting getting parts for that thing.
[quote=”LRDisco” post=157753][quote=”KATT302MAV” post=157705]i have a car at work right now that has rotten food all over and infested with roaches. it’s the fourth bomb that we threw in it and they still crawling everywhere.[/quote]
You win
:sick: :sick: :sick:Roach bomb or petrol bomb?
I think option #2 may be best
;)[/quote]this is one of those few times that diesel is appropriate for a passenger car.
don’t you mean rebuilt with a bad second gear and broken shift fork and several stripped/ damaged threads?
Could be several things, slipping bands, bad torque converter, 3rd member issue. worn gears. I would take it to a transmission shop for diag. most shops will diagnose it for a very reasonable price and most if you get it fixed there will discount the repair for the same amount as the diag.
The high side is a LITTLE low but you are getting a 30 deg drop out of the vent. If it were my car I would not add refrigerant unless the compressor was cycling excessively.
Just guessing I would say it is the pump or wiring to the pump grounding out and popping the fuse. Putting the higher amp rated fuse is prolly what fried the ECU. If a fuse blows it is generally a good idea to figure out what is causing it before replacing it. If it were my truck I would get a wiring diagram and figure out EVERYTHING that is on that circuit and do a continuity test from the load to the NEG batt terminal for everything on that circuit. Hopefully it is JUST the fuel pump on that circuit and that makes it much easier to troubleshoot. I can almost guarantee something on that circuit is shorting and causing all the issues. Getting the wiring diagram is the key.