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Yea i like wearing them for a couple reasons one when i get done with a repair i can just take them off and take the vehicle out with out washing my hands and 2 it protects my already rough hands from the harmfull chemicals ive been using for a few years gloveless now lol. Not to mention it saves me clean up time at the end of the day
Well since my shop buys the gloves and its not an expense out of my pocket i usually go through a box of 100 in 4 days sometimes a week
Well since my shop buys the gloves and its not an expense out of my pocket i usually go through a box of 100 in 4 days sometimes a week
Well how i usually find these noises is have an assistant either turn the wheels or bounce the car which ever duplicates the noise and if its something obvious like a lower ball joint ill carefully put my hand on the lower ball joint and feel for the noise usually you can feel it.
Well how i usually find these noises is have an assistant either turn the wheels or bounce the car which ever duplicates the noise and if its something obvious like a lower ball joint ill carefully put my hand on the lower ball joint and feel for the noise usually you can feel it.
these engines are extremely easy to bleed if you look on the left side of the engine aka driver side you will see a bleed screw unscrew and fill with coolant once coolant comes out then you are bled I usually still use my fast fill funnel afterwards just to be safe then sorry, but if you get it bled and you still have the same issue im sticking with my original answer, also as a side note ive seen the water pump impellor be messed up as well, and on rare occasions electrolysis eating the timing cover.
these engines are extremely easy to bleed if you look on the left side of the engine aka driver side you will see a bleed screw unscrew and fill with coolant once coolant comes out then you are bled I usually still use my fast fill funnel afterwards just to be safe then sorry, but if you get it bled and you still have the same issue im sticking with my original answer, also as a side note ive seen the water pump impellor be messed up as well, and on rare occasions electrolysis eating the timing cover.
If you have all of the above fuel spark compression exhaust then a big suspect here is the quality of the fuel now i know you said you checked and made sure it burned but just to be on the safe side spray a very minimal amount of brake clean or starting fluid into the intake manifold some how through a vacuum port or what ever it may not start but if it comes close to starting the fuel quality is probably your issue. We had a hemi with 1000 miles on it come in the shop the other day with a no start and when the fuel sample was taken the fuel would burn but just by looking at it you could tell it was no good. Im in the Washington area so it may not be too far fetched that it may be bad gas, especially that you said it was after she filled up. Please be very careful with the brake clean or starting fluid and i would disable the fuel pump as well and get rid of the fuel pressure. Dont use too much because it could back fire
If you have all of the above fuel spark compression exhaust then a big suspect here is the quality of the fuel now i know you said you checked and made sure it burned but just to be on the safe side spray a very minimal amount of brake clean or starting fluid into the intake manifold some how through a vacuum port or what ever it may not start but if it comes close to starting the fuel quality is probably your issue. We had a hemi with 1000 miles on it come in the shop the other day with a no start and when the fuel sample was taken the fuel would burn but just by looking at it you could tell it was no good. Im in the Washington area so it may not be too far fetched that it may be bad gas, especially that you said it was after she filled up. Please be very careful with the brake clean or starting fluid and i would disable the fuel pump as well and get rid of the fuel pressure. Dont use too much because it could back fire
And i forgot to add yes 4×4 low is indeed for going slow and i dont recommend using either 4×4 modes if the roads are not slick its not for dry pavement they dont like that lol its ok when going straight but if you turn on dry pavement it will bind and jerk lol
And i forgot to add yes 4×4 low is indeed for going slow and i dont recommend using either 4×4 modes if the roads are not slick its not for dry pavement they dont like that lol its ok when going straight but if you turn on dry pavement it will bind and jerk lol
If you are switching to 4×4 high then you can switch it on the fly, if you are switching to 4×4 low then come to a complete stop put it in neutral and then shift it. If you have the push button 4×4 that system is nice because its fail proof if the shift conditions are not met then it wont shift so no damage to your t case hope this helps.
If you are switching to 4×4 high then you can switch it on the fly, if you are switching to 4×4 low then come to a complete stop put it in neutral and then shift it. If you have the push button 4×4 that system is nice because its fail proof if the shift conditions are not met then it wont shift so no damage to your t case hope this helps.