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Craftsman for sockets, and ratchets. Harbor Freight for things like pliers, hammers, punches and such.
Harbor Frieght is ok, but their impact sockets explode. Get a good set of shallow, & deep metric sockets, in both 3/8″, & 1/4″ Drive, Some 3/8″ Metric allen, and Torx sockets (The evolve ones from Sears are good for 10 bucks a set.)
a 3/8″ universal joint, a 1/2″ to 3/8″ reducer, some good fine tooth ratchets, particularly a long 3/8″ with a flexi head. Also a basic set of 1/2″ Metric impact sockets
at least a 17, 19, 21, 22, and 24mm. Get a GOOD 1/2″ impact gun, DO NOT cheap out on this, I made this mistake the first time. I have a IR 2135Ti, but a IR 231 will be ok.
The 2135 is nice because the composite body absorbs shock, and its MUCH lighter than the 231. I’ve used both when I was a lube tech. It makes a BIG difference when all you do is tire rotations all day. The Snap-On ones are overpriced, and I think the IR’s are a better product, but that’s just my opinion.
You will need a couple ball/pien hammers, a DVOM, and finally some prybars. Also, don’t forget a basic set of Metric combination wrences. This should be a good starter set for you, that will help you do most things.Most stuff I get from Rockauto,it’s usually the same price with shipping,
that I pay with my discount locally,
But I get better brand choices.
Eg; Akebono vs. Wagner brake pads.
They also carry many oem brands
Like Aisin waterpumps, Mitsuboshi timing belts, and Denso spark plugs.I guess it all depends on what you are use to. +1 on having the right
tools (VW loves 5mm allen)
I’ve mostly worked on Toyota’s, but on the rare occaison I’ve had
To work on a VW it was not a
pleasant experience.
I think this may be because I’m spoiled because Toyota’s are so easy
to work on. I’ve gotta give credit to these VW guys, it takes a specialperson to work on them, and you will have plenty of work. But for me I’m glad not to be married to my friend’s A4 Avant 2.8 Quattro anymore.