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This is some of the sickest shit I have ever heard. I can’t believe what some of you guys are saying.
This is unheard of in New England. This would never happen in Boston.Let me put it this way; if someone EVER tried to take my money; the food that feeds my child- I would have a field day.
Mechanics use big tools, that should inhibit a certain fear when messing with somebody’s pay.
There would be so much blood spatter that when the cops arrive they would think Michael Myers was real. Not fucking around here either.A frozen bolt is not a technicians fault. Metal breaks just as easily as plastic sometimes, and no tech should ever be expected to never break something. If an owner can’t afford insurance, they shouldn’t own as shop. Period. Don’t fuck with somebody’s life line because you don’t understand that insurance is a REQUIREMENT. If there isn’t insurance in your area that covers this, don’t get in this industry.
Iinnsane. I can’t believe those few of you that stand for this.
I suggest you check the combustion chamber. Remove the spark plugs and check for any fluid inside the ‘holes’ with a flashlight.
If you have an infrared thermometer you may check the temperatures of each individual exhaust runner to verifywhich cylinder is misfiring.
I suggest you check the combustion chamber. Remove the spark plugs and check for any fluid inside the ‘holes’ with a flashlight.
If you have an infrared thermometer you may check the temperatures of each individual exhaust runner to verifywhich cylinder is misfiring.
If this is just for a job, and you’ll be driving it daily out of work, I would consider something a bit more comfortable and reliable than a new model especially from Ford.. that’s for sure. Especially if your looking for something with power.
The reason I mentioned Volvo, is because they are very very comfortable, safe, and if you can get a hold of an AWD platform your getting into the 300hp range. Solid suspension means you wont be replacing anything but dampers for the life of the vehicle. They can withstand hot weather down to sub zero temperature and still crank no problem. They are an independent brand that I think more people should take seriously. It’s not the old boxy car of yore any longer.
I believe they still use ZF gearboxes, which is top of the line in terms of transmissions. Extremely reliable, tough to kill, innovative. They developed the first 9 and 10 speed transmissions which Ford, GM, and everyone else is trying to copy.
And Volvo eats warranty all day.
I’d look at something else even if you don’t care for Volvo instead of a new model from Ford, as I already suggested.
Those things will cost you.If this is just for a job, and you’ll be driving it daily out of work, I would consider something a bit more comfortable and reliable than a new model especially from Ford.. that’s for sure. Especially if your looking for something with power.
The reason I mentioned Volvo, is because they are very very comfortable, safe, and if you can get a hold of an AWD platform your getting into the 300hp range. Solid suspension means you wont be replacing anything but dampers for the life of the vehicle. They can withstand hot weather down to sub zero temperature and still crank no problem. They are an independent brand that I think more people should take seriously. It’s not the old boxy car of yore any longer.
I believe they still use ZF gearboxes, which is top of the line in terms of transmissions. Extremely reliable, tough to kill, innovative. They developed the first 9 and 10 speed transmissions which Ford, GM, and everyone else is trying to copy.
And Volvo eats warranty all day.
I’d look at something else even if you don’t care for Volvo instead of a new model from Ford, as I already suggested.
Those things will cost you.[quote=”Goodwin” post=84096]There is no code. Just an airbag light. No check engine codes or OBD[/quote]
I can almost promise you there’s a code, you need a scan tool that can read SRS DTC’s. There are a few tools out there that claim to read SRS, but it only works on certain models usually listed in very fine print on the last page of the manual heh..
Go to a Certified Honda/ Acura dealer if it bothers you that much and pay the 100$ to have it erased. Or pay 160$ for a qualified scan tool and do it yourself.
Until you do that you will have no Airbags.
[quote=”Goodwin” post=84096]There is no code. Just an airbag light. No check engine codes or OBD[/quote]
I can almost promise you there’s a code, you need a scan tool that can read SRS DTC’s. There are a few tools out there that claim to read SRS, but it only works on certain models usually listed in very fine print on the last page of the manual heh..
Go to a Certified Honda/ Acura dealer if it bothers you that much and pay the 100$ to have it erased. Or pay 160$ for a qualified scan tool and do it yourself.
Until you do that you will have no Airbags.
[quote=”meleemaker” post=79829]Good tools arent cheap, and cheap tools arent good. I have $12,000 in snap on tools, but I use mine everyday and get paid as fast as I can work….and if I round off a bolt, I lose money on that job…so it only makes sense to purchase the best….and especially snap on screw drivers. Nothing has ever beaten a snap on screw driver. Not matco or mac or anything.[/quote]
Ditto.
Snap on is the absolute SHIT. I was a skeptic. Once. Until I actually used a Snap-On wrench.
See, I was lucky to go to a school that gave me a 3,000$ snap on set with a blue-point top box upon graduation. It wasn’t a huge set (at all..like…tiny actually), but it gets you started. And it made me realize the quality and difference between a ‘tool’ and a ‘Tool.’One thing that people don’t understand about the Snap on truck guy is how little HE actually makes. He’s lucky to make 20$ off a 3/8th ratchet. All of that is credit on his card. It may be tough to believe, but its true. So when you see a guy get a deal, remember that Snap-On INC didn’t approve it but the snap-on guy did, and he didn’t make shit for profit. Alot of guys think every driver makes wads of cash, and 90% of the time, these guys are in debt.
[quote=”meleemaker” post=79829]Good tools arent cheap, and cheap tools arent good. I have $12,000 in snap on tools, but I use mine everyday and get paid as fast as I can work….and if I round off a bolt, I lose money on that job…so it only makes sense to purchase the best….and especially snap on screw drivers. Nothing has ever beaten a snap on screw driver. Not matco or mac or anything.[/quote]
Ditto.
Snap on is the absolute SHIT. I was a skeptic. Once. Until I actually used a Snap-On wrench.
See, I was lucky to go to a school that gave me a 3,000$ snap on set with a blue-point top box upon graduation. It wasn’t a huge set (at all..like…tiny actually), but it gets you started. And it made me realize the quality and difference between a ‘tool’ and a ‘Tool.’One thing that people don’t understand about the Snap on truck guy is how little HE actually makes. He’s lucky to make 20$ off a 3/8th ratchet. All of that is credit on his card. It may be tough to believe, but its true. So when you see a guy get a deal, remember that Snap-On INC didn’t approve it but the snap-on guy did, and he didn’t make shit for profit. Alot of guys think every driver makes wads of cash, and 90% of the time, these guys are in debt.
Believe it or not..
Sending your oil to a lab can be EXTREMELY useful for several things. This is something that is done regularly for large, and even small scale fleet operations..once again that is for several reasons.
All metals break down. It’s just inherent of all things in ‘our’ universe. Certain parts within an engine are tempered from different metals and materials. A good example would be a piston and connecting rod. Both are made of similar metals, but they are not always from the same forgery, nor are they forged of the exact same materials.
As these metals break down over continued operation inside one of the most destructive places on planet earth, they deposit molecular sized pieces of themselves into the oil. Sometimes they are larger then molecules, but that’s a different subject. If your engine oil can touch it, then I can assure you it’s in your oil. Over time there will be a good sized collection of dissimilar metals chillin’ in your oil pan.Now depending on the size of the lab, and the quality of the work they do as well as the skill and experience of those performing the lab work- they can tell you exactly whats going to fail next, down to the cylinder bank, and how soon you have before the part fails. Their accuracy also depends (alot actually) on how many samples you give them over X amount of time.
This is a common practice for large fleets. It makes life on the Technicians SO much easier having the knowledge that the vibrations from that Ford E250 are coming from a crankshaft lobe that’s going to fail within 700 hours, and not the engine mount as was previously thought…
25$ is a damn good price too. Almost questionable.
Go for it I say. Just be aware that over time, (unless your a M1 full-synthetic type of guy) its going to get expensive to send some away after every oil change.Believe it or not..
Sending your oil to a lab can be EXTREMELY useful for several things. This is something that is done regularly for large, and even small scale fleet operations..once again that is for several reasons.
All metals break down. It’s just inherent of all things in ‘our’ universe. Certain parts within an engine are tempered from different metals and materials. A good example would be a piston and connecting rod. Both are made of similar metals, but they are not always from the same forgery, nor are they forged of the exact same materials.
As these metals break down over continued operation inside one of the most destructive places on planet earth, they deposit molecular sized pieces of themselves into the oil. Sometimes they are larger then molecules, but that’s a different subject. If your engine oil can touch it, then I can assure you it’s in your oil. Over time there will be a good sized collection of dissimilar metals chillin’ in your oil pan.Now depending on the size of the lab, and the quality of the work they do as well as the skill and experience of those performing the lab work- they can tell you exactly whats going to fail next, down to the cylinder bank, and how soon you have before the part fails. Their accuracy also depends (alot actually) on how many samples you give them over X amount of time.
This is a common practice for large fleets. It makes life on the Technicians SO much easier having the knowledge that the vibrations from that Ford E250 are coming from a crankshaft lobe that’s going to fail within 700 hours, and not the engine mount as was previously thought…
25$ is a damn good price too. Almost questionable.
Go for it I say. Just be aware that over time, (unless your a M1 full-synthetic type of guy) its going to get expensive to send some away after every oil change.The newer the car, the more difficult a DIY’r is going to have. Cars today are being designed and consequently built to be owner unfriendly.
Certain vehicle makes are easier to perform some maintainance on as someone suggested. But really , at the end of the day, it all comes down to ones skill, knowledge, and tool-set. Even with a service manual, if you cant read a wiring diagram its not going to help. If you dont have a special tool thats required, its not going to help.
In my opinion, unless you have the skillset and understanding of “why x works this way, or why x works with y” than it should be left to the proffesionals. If safety is relative to the repair, leave it alone.
I get pissed when someone brings in a car that’s been hacked up and I lose time.. because I just can’t drive a car out of my bay with the knowledge that something isn’t right.An instructor once told me that a car engine bay should always leave my bay looking and running exactly the same the day it was bought, Or better in the case of a hack or improper previous repair.
I still follow that lesson, because that’s every technicians job.
The newer the car, the more difficult a DIY’r is going to have. Cars today are being designed and consequently built to be owner unfriendly.
Certain vehicle makes are easier to perform some maintainance on as someone suggested. But really , at the end of the day, it all comes down to ones skill, knowledge, and tool-set. Even with a service manual, if you cant read a wiring diagram its not going to help. If you dont have a special tool thats required, its not going to help.
In my opinion, unless you have the skillset and understanding of “why x works this way, or why x works with y” than it should be left to the proffesionals. If safety is relative to the repair, leave it alone.
I get pissed when someone brings in a car that’s been hacked up and I lose time.. because I just can’t drive a car out of my bay with the knowledge that something isn’t right.An instructor once told me that a car engine bay should always leave my bay looking and running exactly the same the day it was bought, Or better in the case of a hack or improper previous repair.
I still follow that lesson, because that’s every technicians job.