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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=87567]I’ve actually seen this a few times. The main cause is lack of brake service. Honda uses some pretty crappy rear calipers in my opinion and if you don’t get in there and service them about ever 30K or so they start to hang up. Once they do they make more heat. More heat = more wear on the brake parts and more metal fatigue for the rotors. It’s also quite common for the rear pads to rust into place inside the caliper. I normally deal with this by grinding the pad bosses down a little so that they move freely inside the caliper. This mostly happens on the inside pad BTW.
So, don’t worry, I’ve seen it before and it’s not unusual. I would however advise regular brake service and quality brake pads to avoid the issue in the future.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKpmBvfVYZg%5B/quote%5D
That’s rather interesting and good to hear.. Something I’ll keep a note of when I service Honda’s.
On a side note I too have made a habit of using a griding wheel to grind down the ears on front pads whenever I deal with Lexus/ Toyota, as they have a tendency to stick over time as well.
Good tip, thanks Eric.Absolutely.
I wouldn’t ‘dump’ it all over the place, rather try to aim it over the springs and let some sit on the rocker arms. The only time an engine sees wear is during a cold start. If your dry starting and its literally dry, yes your going to hear some scary clatter and see quite a bit of smoke. As the pressure builds and works its way up it’ll calm down a bit while the ECM negotiates the proper fuel/air mix.Remember that a new head has new clearences so you’ll have a better oil pressure (hopefully) and it’ll take your system a bit to readjust.
Let it idle for 25 minutes or so, DO NOT rev the engine during the wait. After 10-15 minutes have passed bring it to 2k rpm gently to feel her out. Don’t go over 2500k rpm until your ready to test drive. Listen to your timing to make sure everything is set and good before you take her out.Another tip is to pull the fuel relay or unplug the injectors and crank it for 5-9 seconds to get pressure up that way, but stiv625 already mentioned that 🙂
Good luck and congrats on your first head job! :woohoo:
Absolutely.
I wouldn’t ‘dump’ it all over the place, rather try to aim it over the springs and let some sit on the rocker arms. The only time an engine sees wear is during a cold start. If your dry starting and its literally dry, yes your going to hear some scary clatter and see quite a bit of smoke. As the pressure builds and works its way up it’ll calm down a bit while the ECM negotiates the proper fuel/air mix.Remember that a new head has new clearences so you’ll have a better oil pressure (hopefully) and it’ll take your system a bit to readjust.
Let it idle for 25 minutes or so, DO NOT rev the engine during the wait. After 10-15 minutes have passed bring it to 2k rpm gently to feel her out. Don’t go over 2500k rpm until your ready to test drive. Listen to your timing to make sure everything is set and good before you take her out.Another tip is to pull the fuel relay or unplug the injectors and crank it for 5-9 seconds to get pressure up that way, but stiv625 already mentioned that 🙂
Good luck and congrats on your first head job! :woohoo:
I’ve always thought, or felt that dealerships are great starters in our industry. At a dealership you won’t be thrown into the mix and muck right off the bat. They have a tendency to see what your made of and where your at (for their own selfish reasons).
I’ve always thought independent was and should be for the guys that have a few dealer experiences sincet they’ve earned the experience with more platforms and are able to work quicker and diagnose faster…and on top of that things like pattern failures and tsb’s are ingrained into their minds. Even though you never know what’s going to come through your bay door you’re better able to serve the customers needs with your experience. There is always a Toyota guy, Nissan guy, GM guy, etc…
Ultimately the choice is yours. But it sounds to me like you mat be better served and better serve in a different climate.
That is unless of course you can be someone’s wingman in your current shop, ID stay.I’ve always thought, or felt that dealerships are great starters in our industry. At a dealership you won’t be thrown into the mix and muck right off the bat. They have a tendency to see what your made of and where your at (for their own selfish reasons).
I’ve always thought independent was and should be for the guys that have a few dealer experiences sincet they’ve earned the experience with more platforms and are able to work quicker and diagnose faster…and on top of that things like pattern failures and tsb’s are ingrained into their minds. Even though you never know what’s going to come through your bay door you’re better able to serve the customers needs with your experience. There is always a Toyota guy, Nissan guy, GM guy, etc…
Ultimately the choice is yours. But it sounds to me like you mat be better served and better serve in a different climate.
That is unless of course you can be someone’s wingman in your current shop, ID stay.The parking brake in itself is a seperate system. So it wouldn’t have caused that.
It looks to me the caliper wasn’t functioning properly. You may have a defective piston. The only cause to that is simply part of the the pads never made contact with the outside of that rotor, causing it to rust. if it did make contact, it wouldnt look like that. I can tell you just by looking at that picture. Rotors are cast iron and should never flake like that. Its possible the rotor went through enough differential stress, and if it wasn’t tempered correctly after the casting process you’d see what your looking at over a period of years.Check out the pads/ rotors you recently installed and make sure the rotor material is wearing away evenly, and check the pads for uneven wear. Check your bleeder valve by cracking it open, and compressing the piston. If nasty black gunk spits out you need to bleed your system. If you see a trickle come out then you have a blockage in whatever caliper your testing (it should shoot out with decent force), which could also lead to uneven wear.
The parking brake in itself is a seperate system. So it wouldn’t have caused that.
It looks to me the caliper wasn’t functioning properly. You may have a defective piston. The only cause to that is simply part of the the pads never made contact with the outside of that rotor, causing it to rust. if it did make contact, it wouldnt look like that. I can tell you just by looking at that picture. Rotors are cast iron and should never flake like that. Its possible the rotor went through enough differential stress, and if it wasn’t tempered correctly after the casting process you’d see what your looking at over a period of years.Check out the pads/ rotors you recently installed and make sure the rotor material is wearing away evenly, and check the pads for uneven wear. Check your bleeder valve by cracking it open, and compressing the piston. If nasty black gunk spits out you need to bleed your system. If you see a trickle come out then you have a blockage in whatever caliper your testing (it should shoot out with decent force), which could also lead to uneven wear.
In my experience, when buying Asian cars these days your paying for the name only. These days most imports are riding on past successes. There is nothing amazing anymore. The quality standards have been dropped in lieu for lower production costs. This is what destroyed the American brands years ago, only today the tables have turned. GM, Ford, Lincoln- all are hungry for “glory” for lack of a better word.
Don’t give up on domestic vehicles just yet. There is a reason why U.S. manufactures have topped sales recently. The styling, innovation, and technology, combined with extremely competitive pricing is putting domestic vehicles back on top.
I wouldn’t worry about a couple Cruzes w/ hg problems either, because that’s a 1 in a 1,000,000 chance.
In my experience, when buying Asian cars these days your paying for the name only. These days most imports are riding on past successes. There is nothing amazing anymore. The quality standards have been dropped in lieu for lower production costs. This is what destroyed the American brands years ago, only today the tables have turned. GM, Ford, Lincoln- all are hungry for “glory” for lack of a better word.
Don’t give up on domestic vehicles just yet. There is a reason why U.S. manufactures have topped sales recently. The styling, innovation, and technology, combined with extremely competitive pricing is putting domestic vehicles back on top.
I wouldn’t worry about a couple Cruzes w/ hg problems either, because that’s a 1 in a 1,000,000 chance.
Ah, yes. Forgot to mention to avoid the early 1.8T model Cruze, as the 1.8 utilized a brand spanking new production engine. GM claimed it was tested for 5 million miles straight, which may be true.. only problem with that is it never saw weather.
New(er) models are built with bit more experience.
Either way, if your buadget allows -avoid Korea.
Ah, yes. Forgot to mention to avoid the early 1.8T model Cruze, as the 1.8 utilized a brand spanking new production engine. GM claimed it was tested for 5 million miles straight, which may be true.. only problem with that is it never saw weather.
New(er) models are built with bit more experience.
Either way, if your buadget allows -avoid Korea.
I cannot say that I have any experience with that particular make and model. mostly because I try to avoid them like a rotten apples.
with that said, some people swear by that brand my opinion you’re more or less getting what you pay for. personally I’d look for something else.
One thing to factor in is the warranty. If it isn’t fantastic, go somewhere else for sure. The Chevy Cruze is a great little car from what I hear, and it’s quite affordable.
I cannot say that I have any experience with that particular make and model. mostly because I try to avoid them like a rotten apples.
with that said, some people swear by that brand my opinion you’re more or less getting what you pay for. personally I’d look for something else.
One thing to factor in is the warranty. If it isn’t fantastic, go somewhere else for sure. The Chevy Cruze is a great little car from what I hear, and it’s quite affordable.
Not offended, your stating your opinion just as I am stating mine. Although I should elaborate a little bit more about what I said.
If a technician continuously approaches R/O’s with a bad attitude and is always stressed and seemingly doesn’t give a hoot when they break something.. then that individual needs to be fired. Why bother having the tech pay for it. Your right when you say that a line of communication needs to open.
However, with that said I still firmly stand where I did before. Metal breaks. It happens. It should go without saying that a technician needs to alert the writer that a bolt, bracket or whatever it may be- broke.
There are plenty (too many) of guys that use air ratchets and impacts for everything. Unfortunately, most of these guys (air hogs) didn’t receive training or have the equipment to fabricate bolts and identify or MIG weld like I can. I only bring up my own skill to let you know that one can NOT always feel when something is about to go. Around here it’s not uncommon for cars to drive off the lot with at least some kind of rust.Around here people sign liability waivers that pretty much state damage done to the car isn’t the shop or mechanics fault. I’ve never heard of a shop enforcing the waiver because repairs are always made but it does prevent lawsuits.
Not offended, your stating your opinion just as I am stating mine. Although I should elaborate a little bit more about what I said.
If a technician continuously approaches R/O’s with a bad attitude and is always stressed and seemingly doesn’t give a hoot when they break something.. then that individual needs to be fired. Why bother having the tech pay for it. Your right when you say that a line of communication needs to open.
However, with that said I still firmly stand where I did before. Metal breaks. It happens. It should go without saying that a technician needs to alert the writer that a bolt, bracket or whatever it may be- broke.
There are plenty (too many) of guys that use air ratchets and impacts for everything. Unfortunately, most of these guys (air hogs) didn’t receive training or have the equipment to fabricate bolts and identify or MIG weld like I can. I only bring up my own skill to let you know that one can NOT always feel when something is about to go. Around here it’s not uncommon for cars to drive off the lot with at least some kind of rust.Around here people sign liability waivers that pretty much state damage done to the car isn’t the shop or mechanics fault. I’ve never heard of a shop enforcing the waiver because repairs are always made but it does prevent lawsuits.