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I thought black smoke is rich condition– blue smoke is oil.
From:
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/exhaust-color.htmlBlue/Gray Smoke: Blue/gray exhaust smoke is an indication of oil burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible symptoms and causes:
Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine shuts down.
Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide allows oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.
Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of a rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:
Fuel Injectors: A leaking or dripping fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.
White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.
What the “street” mechanics may be talking about is aftermarket lowered springs– they dont’ sit as wound up in the car as the original ones so they may come out clean without the compressor. However, I agree with Raistian77. DON’T DO IT!
Btw, it’s also recommended that besides using a good spring compressor with lots of grease on its threads, that you use chains on the springs to chain them to the car body– so if the compressor slips– the spring doesn’t fly at you (far). I’ve heard of them getting lodged in the ceiling of a shop if that tells you anything.
What the “street” mechanics may be talking about is aftermarket lowered springs– they dont’ sit as wound up in the car as the original ones so they may come out clean without the compressor. However, I agree with Raistian77. DON’T DO IT!
Btw, it’s also recommended that besides using a good spring compressor with lots of grease on its threads, that you use chains on the springs to chain them to the car body– so if the compressor slips– the spring doesn’t fly at you (far). I’ve heard of them getting lodged in the ceiling of a shop if that tells you anything.
Hi,
Doing a quick search online, your car seems to take Dot 4 break fluid. What does your manual say?
Also, I know you said the brake booster has been changed, but have you checked for Vacuum leaks– especially in the brake vacuum line as well as the check valve:
example:
http://www.moparaction.com/Article/GTX-CELLENT/5.jpgHi,
Doing a quick search online, your car seems to take Dot 4 break fluid. What does your manual say?
Also, I know you said the brake booster has been changed, but have you checked for Vacuum leaks– especially in the brake vacuum line as well as the check valve:
example:
http://www.moparaction.com/Article/GTX-CELLENT/5.jpgI have the same thing on my mustang. Make sure the clamps on the battery terminals can not be turned by hand and follow the wires to make sure they’re tight and not corroded in other places.
I can start the mustang just fine, drive it, park it and nothing but dash lights. I turn the key, and the dash lights dim, but no response from the motor. I pop the hood, turn the negative battery clamp half a revolution, and the try again. The engine starts right up. The clamp is tight via the nut on it, but I can still turn it by hand on the battery post. I’m not mechanic, but I’d guess it takes more current to start the engine than it is to run it.
Give it a try, let us know if that does it.
I have the same thing on my mustang. Make sure the clamps on the battery terminals can not be turned by hand and follow the wires to make sure they’re tight and not corroded in other places.
I can start the mustang just fine, drive it, park it and nothing but dash lights. I turn the key, and the dash lights dim, but no response from the motor. I pop the hood, turn the negative battery clamp half a revolution, and the try again. The engine starts right up. The clamp is tight via the nut on it, but I can still turn it by hand on the battery post. I’m not mechanic, but I’d guess it takes more current to start the engine than it is to run it.
Give it a try, let us know if that does it.
try and see if you can move the battery clamps by hand. If they turn, you need to tighten them up and make sure they’re clean.
Also, do you hear the relay click when you turn the key?
What’s the voltage on the battery read?
Do the dash lights seem to dim when you put the key in to crank mode or no effect?
try and see if you can move the battery clamps by hand. If they turn, you need to tighten them up and make sure they’re clean.
Also, do you hear the relay click when you turn the key?
What’s the voltage on the battery read?
Do the dash lights seem to dim when you put the key in to crank mode or no effect?
Just to add a thought to the 2nd poster I believe about new cars and fighting their intelligence. My wife has a Subaru Legacy, 2012 with manual transmission. I was very surprised and upset that it comes with electronic parking break– a push button. What happens in an emergency if your breaks give out? push the button? >:)
Just to add a thought to the 2nd poster I believe about new cars and fighting their intelligence. My wife has a Subaru Legacy, 2012 with manual transmission. I was very surprised and upset that it comes with electronic parking break– a push button. What happens in an emergency if your breaks give out? push the button? >:)
I’m still having a hard time understanding Voltage Drop even after watching a bunch of videos.
BTW, I liked this series:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4f-vWFOYmxI
I get the main 2 points:
1. Current has to be flowing
2. At the end of the circuit, all the voltage supplied to it needs to be used up.However, what I’m having a hard time with is the car circuits are made up of many components each adding it’s own load (resistance) right? So how do you make sure the value you’re reading on the meter is the correct value? How do you actually go about testing each in the car? What’s the general rule? Do you always have one lead on the battery and use the other lead to check the drops? All the examples in the video deal with one load.
Also, I think the name Voltage Drop is kinda misleading. I initially thought it’s a test too see how much Voltage “Drops”, but it actually is a test to see how much Voltage Remains 🙂 since in theory– all of it has to drop.
I’m still having a hard time understanding Voltage Drop even after watching a bunch of videos.
BTW, I liked this series:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4f-vWFOYmxI
I get the main 2 points:
1. Current has to be flowing
2. At the end of the circuit, all the voltage supplied to it needs to be used up.However, what I’m having a hard time with is the car circuits are made up of many components each adding it’s own load (resistance) right? So how do you make sure the value you’re reading on the meter is the correct value? How do you actually go about testing each in the car? What’s the general rule? Do you always have one lead on the battery and use the other lead to check the drops? All the examples in the video deal with one load.
Also, I think the name Voltage Drop is kinda misleading. I initially thought it’s a test too see how much Voltage “Drops”, but it actually is a test to see how much Voltage Remains 🙂 since in theory– all of it has to drop.
