[Julian]

My $0.02 would be this. If you’re a newbie, I wouldn’t take on a timing belt job (just yet). Start with minor work and see how it goes. Before taking on a project, do good research. Look online for how people have done the project and check other sites to make sure other people are doing it the same way. Hell, I sometimes call a shop and ask a mechanic. Some are nice about explaining things, some are not 👿 Make sure you have a place and time to do the project. I started by changing my own oil on my Mazda 323 when I was 16. Since then, I’ve worked on my cars, my wife’s car, my friend’s car. Changed a radiator, muffler, springs in suspension and so on. Some repairs go well, some don’t but you learn from it. As long as you make every attempt to make it safe for yourself and other. In the end, working on a car is yet another acquired skill and building skills always takes time and experience.

[Julian]

My $0.02 would be this. If you’re a newbie, I wouldn’t take on a timing belt job (just yet). Start with minor work and see how it goes. Before taking on a project, do good research. Look online for how people have done the project and check other sites to make sure other people are doing it the same way. Hell, I sometimes call a shop and ask a mechanic. Some are nice about explaining things, some are not 👿 Make sure you have a place and time to do the project. I started by changing my own oil on my Mazda 323 when I was 16. Since then, I’ve worked on my cars, my wife’s car, my friend’s car. Changed a radiator, muffler, springs in suspension and so on. Some repairs go well, some don’t but you learn from it. As long as you make every attempt to make it safe for yourself and other. In the end, working on a car is yet another acquired skill and building skills always takes time and experience.

[Julian]

You can spray in the throttle body too– just more to remove. Make sure you put the hose back on before starting. Btw, you know what a PCV looks like, right? It just pulls out– not clamped or screwed in. My 89 mustang has a PCV on the back part of the engine as well. If you really lean in, you can get to it 🙂

Also, did I understand correctly that when it’s cold you first start it, it starts, then you give it gas and it dies? Then after doing the same thing 3-4 times it finally starts?

Finally, one more important thing. Since you cleaned the IAC and ran SeaFoam and stuff, the computer needs to relearn the new status of things. I’d unplug the battery for 1 hr and let the computer clear. Then plug it back in and drive it for 20 min and let the computer re-learn.

Let us know how it goes.

Julian

[Julian]

You can spray in the throttle body too– just more to remove. Make sure you put the hose back on before starting. Btw, you know what a PCV looks like, right? It just pulls out– not clamped or screwed in. My 89 mustang has a PCV on the back part of the engine as well. If you really lean in, you can get to it 🙂

Also, did I understand correctly that when it’s cold you first start it, it starts, then you give it gas and it dies? Then after doing the same thing 3-4 times it finally starts?

Finally, one more important thing. Since you cleaned the IAC and ran SeaFoam and stuff, the computer needs to relearn the new status of things. I’d unplug the battery for 1 hr and let the computer clear. Then plug it back in and drive it for 20 min and let the computer re-learn.

Let us know how it goes.

Julian

[Julian]

I’d make sure it has plenty of gas and make sure the battery terminals and cables are tight and clean. The fact that it started from a jump could be due to the terminals– there’s more strain on the battery in the cold. A bad connection I would think may cause sputtering as well if the sensors aren’t getting right amount of juice.

Keep us posted please.

Julian

[Julian]

I’d make sure it has plenty of gas and make sure the battery terminals and cables are tight and clean. The fact that it started from a jump could be due to the terminals– there’s more strain on the battery in the cold. A bad connection I would think may cause sputtering as well if the sensors aren’t getting right amount of juice.

Keep us posted please.

Julian

[Julian]

I’ll take the simpler approach that wasn’t covered yet. How’s the battery? Are the terminals clean? Does the engine crank at the right speed or does it hardly turn? I’d also try adding at least 3 gallons of gas.

Keep us posted please.

Julian

[Julian]

I’ll take the simpler approach that wasn’t covered yet. How’s the battery? Are the terminals clean? Does the engine crank at the right speed or does it hardly turn? I’d also try adding at least 3 gallons of gas.

Keep us posted please.

Julian

[Julian]

Just for fun I’m gonna put my bets on grg8888’s response to what the issue could be. 🙂 Please keep us posted on what you find out.

Also, I supposed you can try spraying break fluid in to the PCV hole before first cranking on a cold day. See if that starts right up. If so, then it’s a lack of initial fuel that’s the problem.

Thanks!
Julian

[Julian]

Just for fun I’m gonna put my bets on grg8888’s response to what the issue could be. 🙂 Please keep us posted on what you find out.

Also, I supposed you can try spraying break fluid in to the PCV hole before first cranking on a cold day. See if that starts right up. If so, then it’s a lack of initial fuel that’s the problem.

Thanks!
Julian

[Julian]

Raistian77,

Can you explain that? Wouldn’t a normal working car have some pressure if you remove the radiator cap after a few minutes of running?

Also, how would a bad head gasket cause a no start?

[Julian]

Raistian77,

Can you explain that? Wouldn’t a normal working car have some pressure if you remove the radiator cap after a few minutes of running?

Also, how would a bad head gasket cause a no start?

[Julian]

Try checking/cleaning the IAC– seems to be an idle issue, right?

[Julian]

Try checking/cleaning the IAC– seems to be an idle issue, right?

[Julian]

I thought black smoke is rich condition– blue smoke is oil.

From:
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/exhaust-color.html

Blue/Gray Smoke: Blue/gray exhaust smoke is an indication of oil burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible symptoms and causes:

Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine shuts down.

Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide allows oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.

Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of a rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:

Fuel Injectors: A leaking or dripping fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.

Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.

Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.

White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:

Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.

[Author]

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