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Yeah the part you are referring to is the clock spring. Dealer said that was the issue. I said don’t do the repair (they wanted 900 bucks) and leave the relay out. I’m going to wire a separate horn until my independent shop has time to look at it. And i will probably get it dried by a detail shop to prevent any further wonky electrical issues/mold
i removed about 10 quarts, and replaced about the same by now, but i didnt do a full flush, just drained it from the drain on the radiator
So i filled it last night, and it was low this morning (like an inch below the opening for the radiator cap. checked again 5 hours later (just now) and still low but not as much. Would a bad radiator cap cause a leak while the car isnt running (did not drive it this morning)? or is that indicative of air in the system? probably just not bled properly. there are no visible leaks
smell seems to have gone away, ill keep an eye on it. As far as the squealing, it is now intermittent when the AC is on, compressor pulley seemed to have some play
definitely locate a wiring diagram for the pump (should be somewhere in the haynes manual) and ensure the voltages are good. Also check the pressure as well. If the pressure does leak down, then likely the fuel pump needs to be replaced. Much easier to change a relay or fuse or clean a connection then pull a fuel pump
did you find if you have an inline fuel filter outside the tank?
its a 96 saturn SL-1, automatic tension. Brakes are disc brakes. If the smell continues ill check the pistons again to be sure theyre compressed all the way. Just don’t want a safety issue, but again the car stops as it should.
Generally the haynes manual will cover a range of years (mine covers 1997-2001 explorers, mountaineers, and sport tracs i believe) I dont know much about buying FSMs, but I think they include a vin look up.
here is a link to your haynes manual: http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/828
One more thing to note. I would highly recommend purchasing a Haynes manual. They are about 30 bucks new and will give you specific information for your car, or if you feel like spending around 80 then see if you can find a factory service manual. This information will really be helpful to you in your diagnosis of problems in your car. Good luck tracking down this issue, wish I could offer more specific expertise.
I would attempt the test over 9 hours to see if it drops slowly, also check the relay and control functions to the pump. Also there may be an oil pressure switch involved (as seen in older GM models). I would check all of the components on the fuel pump circuit after checking for a slow pressure leak.
I beleive so, however I have little experience with this job (mostly information from a friend who did this job). Maybe someone who has done this fix can offer more insignt. I have read that some people have been able to replace the check valve while keeping the pump. But i think the pump needs to come out to do the fix
You could start with the fuel pressure test in the video that I showed you and/or checking the fuel pump relay. It could be a battery problem, but as mentioned before it seems more an more like a fuel pressure issue (assuming your car cranks normally in the morning, but for a longer period of time) it is pretty obvious when there isnt enough power getting to the starter. Up to you if you start with the battery and then move to the fuel system, but the pattery/parasitic draw isn’t a bad thing to test
[quote=”Nodak81″ post=168976]Just to clarify, are you saying the engine turns over (rotates) slowly compared to normal or are you just saying it takes a longer time to start? Sounds like you mean you just have to crank it for longer which to me would mean the battery, parasitic draw, etc. are not going to be your problem.
I have a ’03 Kia Rio and I’ve had issues for years with it occasionally taking a long time to start. Seems to be fuel related like you mentioned. I had several people tell me they thought the drain-back valve in the fuel pump was intermittent. So the fuel might be partially draining backwards into the tank away from the engine when it sits for a while. Although I found with my car that length of time sitting made no difference, it was 50/50 whether it will start fast or have to crank a couple times.[/quote]
that was the issue in my friends jeep. Not sure what the auto parts stores have around you OP, but you could rent a fuel pressure gauge kit to see the pressure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YLRtA_QHa8