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I’ll check to see if the amperage draw at high blower is in the 18 to 24 amp range. Thanks
September 15, 2016 at 1:57 am in reply to: Intermitten slow crank no start – wait then start #868200Thank you to those who provided suggestions. It turned out to be the starter. The starter got to a point where only the solenoid would activate but the starter would not turn. The replacement is installed and I am “on the road again”,
The links didn’t help in this case. I had looked looked through this earlier.
It doesn’t seem to matter if it is hot or cold. Most of the time it is when I have driven somewhere but I have had occasions where it seemed sluggish after work.
Thanks for the response. I’m pretty confident I could pull it out but isn’t it a primary structural part? It would very very much weakened.
Thanks for the response. I’m pretty confident I could pull it out but isn’t it a primary structural part? It would very very much weakened.
🙂 Thanks, pulling the cable a few times freed it up significantly. Big improvement and saved money to boot.
🙂 Thanks, pulling the cable a few times freed it up significantly. Big improvement and saved money to boot.
It’s running again. I am still not exactly sure what the issue was. But I replaced some parts with Honda parts and it’s run over 150 miles with no issues.
I replaced:
plugs (were not Honda)
wires (were not Honda)
distributor cap
rotor button
The distributor had a lot of rust in it so I cleaned it well before putting it back together.Thank you all for your input.
It’s running again. I am still not exactly sure what the issue was. But I replaced some parts with Honda parts and it’s run over 150 miles with no issues.
I replaced:
plugs (were not Honda)
wires (were not Honda)
distributor cap
rotor button
The distributor had a lot of rust in it so I cleaned it well before putting it back together.Thank you all for your input.
Yes, and I even confirmed with a long screw driver in the spark plug hole. See photo of mark some one added as well as original timing mark.
However when I turn the crank the timing belt appears to ‘slacken’. Please see video. Is this level normal or is it too loose? Could the tensioner be bad since I have attempted to tighten it.
Attachments:Yes, and I even confirmed with a long screw driver in the spark plug hole. See photo of mark some one added as well as original timing mark.
However when I turn the crank the timing belt appears to ‘slacken’. Please see video. Is this level normal or is it too loose? Could the tensioner be bad since I have attempted to tighten it.
Attachments:Attached is a photo of the timing mark at TDC.
Attachments:Attached is a photo of the timing mark at TDC.
Attachments:OK now that the storm is over and we have power again I have spend some time troubles shooting. Let me say that the comments and videos have been most helpful but I am still chasing a ghost. It does however to be pointing to an ignition timing issue.
Let me summarize:
No start condition – fuel flow OK
Pulled the distributor – dizzy and pin fine.
The distributor is a TD-80U which I think is a genuine part. The plug wires and plugs are not.
Tightened the timing belt but I’m not sure that it’s banjo tight.
Set timing with timing light.(*several times) – SCS shorted engine at temp …So after all that the engine still has no intermittent start issues and will bog down and die when. I can get the engine to start by rotating the distributor position while cranking. After this last start and timing setting the timing light seemed to indicate and intermittent firing on the cylinder. That is the the flashes were not equally spaced. The flashes actually had significant pauses between groupings.
I don’t think the plugs and wires would cause the engine to bog down and die would they? I’ll get some genuine parts and replace them next week.
Two things that I’m leaning toward.
One is maybe the timing belt is stretched and will not tighten sufficiently.
Two the distributor ignition control module is faltering.Any suggestions on additional trouble shooting before I throw more money at it?
One last thing The rotor button is rusted on. After removing the screw I can not get it off. I even tried PB penetrating fluid. If I can get it off I can replace the ICM.
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