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What exactly is a DVM? I may look into borrowing one.
After I read what you guys said I started looking for the ECM. A repair manual I have said it was on the engine block, I figured it must be on the back because I had never seen it before. I got back there and looking and I noticed this (see pic below). This is a pic of where the exhaust pipe meets the header.. you can literally stick your hand in there and both sides are like this. I apologize for being off topic but this kinda shocked me. That explains the lack of power I’ve been experiencing lately! I imagine that is the reason for the o2 code I was getting as well.
What exactly is a DVM? I may look into borrowing one.
After I read what you guys said I started looking for the ECM. A repair manual I have said it was on the engine block, I figured it must be on the back because I had never seen it before. I got back there and looking and I noticed this (see pic below). This is a pic of where the exhaust pipe meets the header.. you can literally stick your hand in there and both sides are like this. I apologize for being off topic but this kinda shocked me. That explains the lack of power I’ve been experiencing lately! I imagine that is the reason for the o2 code I was getting as well.
I just now did this test I found on the link you gave. I’ll paste what it said to do… “Use a digital voltmeter and test the ccd bus voltage at the data link connector. You should have about 2.5 volts on cavities 3 and 11. Go ahead and check this with the ignition on.” This is testing the BUS + and – pins on the connector that you would hook up an OBDII scanner to under the dash. Well those pins tested out good, both were around 2.45 volts. Is my head the only one that’s spinning right now?
I just now did this test I found on the link you gave. I’ll paste what it said to do… “Use a digital voltmeter and test the ccd bus voltage at the data link connector. You should have about 2.5 volts on cavities 3 and 11. Go ahead and check this with the ignition on.” This is testing the BUS + and – pins on the connector that you would hook up an OBDII scanner to under the dash. Well those pins tested out good, both were around 2.45 volts. Is my head the only one that’s spinning right now?
I have actually ran that test you are talking about, I think. I had to do some fishing to find the link again but here it is (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?s=e3c66a67b010a2e925141cadc042bb06&t=39187&page=2). I tested the voltage at the sensors and it checked out okay, nearly all were 5.14V which is normal. I did not, however, back probe any of the sensors with the engine running, which wasn’t a part of this test anyway. I got to the end of the test to where you had to check pins on the PCM connector. I did not know how to test PCM connector pins so I just stopped my test there. I am sure that if I could figure out how to test those pins I could really get somewhere and backtrack to the problem. I checked out ScannerDanner’s videos btw, that guy really knows his stuff!
I have actually ran that test you are talking about, I think. I had to do some fishing to find the link again but here it is (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?s=e3c66a67b010a2e925141cadc042bb06&t=39187&page=2). I tested the voltage at the sensors and it checked out okay, nearly all were 5.14V which is normal. I did not, however, back probe any of the sensors with the engine running, which wasn’t a part of this test anyway. I got to the end of the test to where you had to check pins on the PCM connector. I did not know how to test PCM connector pins so I just stopped my test there. I am sure that if I could figure out how to test those pins I could really get somewhere and backtrack to the problem. I checked out ScannerDanner’s videos btw, that guy really knows his stuff!
I noticed all of the wires that go to sensors on the transmission and the o2 sensor wires and connectors are mounted, for lack of a better word, to the top of the transmission. Around where the wires were mounted was pretty hot to the touch, hot enough that I had to be careful working around down there. I’m not sure if that is the source of my problem but to me it seems it could be. I checked the wires and they all looked fine. The thing about that is, mostly all of the wires on the Dodge are either wrapped in a type of heat shrink or tape, which makes it just about impossible to check all of the wiring thoroughly. I also checked the wires under the dash and they looked fine too. I followed them through the firewall and into the engine compartment and hit another heat shrink dead end. I’m scratching my head on this one.. And wondering how possible it is to even find the culprit wire. That’s a helluva lot of heat shrink tubing and tape to cut/take off to do any more thorough of an inspection.
I noticed all of the wires that go to sensors on the transmission and the o2 sensor wires and connectors are mounted, for lack of a better word, to the top of the transmission. Around where the wires were mounted was pretty hot to the touch, hot enough that I had to be careful working around down there. I’m not sure if that is the source of my problem but to me it seems it could be. I checked the wires and they all looked fine. The thing about that is, mostly all of the wires on the Dodge are either wrapped in a type of heat shrink or tape, which makes it just about impossible to check all of the wiring thoroughly. I also checked the wires under the dash and they looked fine too. I followed them through the firewall and into the engine compartment and hit another heat shrink dead end. I’m scratching my head on this one.. And wondering how possible it is to even find the culprit wire. That’s a helluva lot of heat shrink tubing and tape to cut/take off to do any more thorough of an inspection.
Thanks for the great information guys! I looked under the dash today near the parking break for a wire that was grounded or any tears in the jackets of the wires and I didn’t notice anything. I’m off work tomorrow so I’ll spend a day doing a more thorough search. It seems like it is going to be pretty tough to do though; dash’s weren’t made for 6’4″ guys to be getting up under.
I found my old computer, the OEM one, and put it on today. I was curious to see if the truck would run, and it did just fine. I expect it to die on low idle though just like it did when it used to be on the truck. But this tells me the newer PCM is completely dead, since the one I just put on it works. I plan on getting a guy to do some soldering on the new PCM which should fix that problem. Typically a bad PCM is just loose connection(s) on the motherboard. Meanwhile, I hope I can track down that bad wire and fix this problem for good. It’s much easier said than done though.
Thanks for the great information guys! I looked under the dash today near the parking break for a wire that was grounded or any tears in the jackets of the wires and I didn’t notice anything. I’m off work tomorrow so I’ll spend a day doing a more thorough search. It seems like it is going to be pretty tough to do though; dash’s weren’t made for 6’4″ guys to be getting up under.
I found my old computer, the OEM one, and put it on today. I was curious to see if the truck would run, and it did just fine. I expect it to die on low idle though just like it did when it used to be on the truck. But this tells me the newer PCM is completely dead, since the one I just put on it works. I plan on getting a guy to do some soldering on the new PCM which should fix that problem. Typically a bad PCM is just loose connection(s) on the motherboard. Meanwhile, I hope I can track down that bad wire and fix this problem for good. It’s much easier said than done though.
Actually yeah before the truck died, for lack of a better word, it was throwing an o2 sensor code (I dont remember exactly what it was) and the abs system light was on. I am not real sure exactly how that could cause the computer to do what it is doing, but it is certainly something I will look more into. The truck is my every day driver and has been down for a month, at this point I am willing to try anything haha
Actually yeah before the truck died, for lack of a better word, it was throwing an o2 sensor code (I dont remember exactly what it was) and the abs system light was on. I am not real sure exactly how that could cause the computer to do what it is doing, but it is certainly something I will look more into. The truck is my every day driver and has been down for a month, at this point I am willing to try anything haha
There was a dodge recall which replaced the connector to the PCM in the fuse box, i had that done a few weeks ago. I’ve checked the fuses and relays, also the voltage at all the sensors to check for any abnormalities and there were done. I made new battery cables myself out of welding cable and put new terminals and grounds on it. I am just about at my wits end. My only other thought is that there is a tear in one of the wires and its causing a short, like the link said. It could be under the dash, or literally anywhere in the wiring harness. Does anyone have any tips or tricks as to how to find a broken wire? Or would i have to visually inspect the entire wiring harness?
There was a dodge recall which replaced the connector to the PCM in the fuse box, i had that done a few weeks ago. I’ve checked the fuses and relays, also the voltage at all the sensors to check for any abnormalities and there were done. I made new battery cables myself out of welding cable and put new terminals and grounds on it. I am just about at my wits end. My only other thought is that there is a tear in one of the wires and its causing a short, like the link said. It could be under the dash, or literally anywhere in the wiring harness. Does anyone have any tips or tricks as to how to find a broken wire? Or would i have to visually inspect the entire wiring harness?
