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There are kits you can buy at most auto parts shops that come with special fittings you install into a coolant hose. They have special attachments that you can hook up a watet hose to. The idea is to backflush the fluid from yout system so that the gunk comes out of the system and radiator without forcing it deaper into the radiator where it woul clog things up worse. Purchase one of those kits and follow the instructions on the package. I am sure there are people who would disagree strongly, but i try to buy fluid that is universal, but you will want to follow your vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation when it comes to purchasing coolant. Just don’t buy the premixed stuff as you are paying for water. It is recomended that you use distilled water mixed with the coolant. Some do. Some don’t. You should pick up a little test kit to make sure that you mix it properly, and that it will protect your engine and radiator from freezing in the coldest weather you are likely to find your vehicle in during the life of the coolant.
If the input hose to the heater is hot, but the return hose from the heater is relatively cold, you might have a clogged heater core. Possibly the control that opens the flow of coolant is not functioning properly. Possibly there is air in the system still and you need to burp it or the heater core more thoroughly. Possibly there simply is not enough coolant in the system. Possibly the gods know that you are too warm and just think you need to be warmer.
If the input hose to the heater is hot, but the return hose from the heater is relatively cold, you might have a clogged heater core. Possibly the control that opens the flow of coolant is not functioning properly. Possibly there is air in the system still and you need to burp it or the heater core more thoroughly. Possibly there simply is not enough coolant in the system. Possibly the gods know that you are too warm and just think you need to be warmer.
Also, a quarter inch might have moved the starter too far away. Maybe a thinner shim should be tried.
Also, a quarter inch might have moved the starter too far away. Maybe a thinner shim should be tried.
With respect to the issue of not hearing the fuel pump, you should check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a pressure meter. If you get proper pressure when you turn the key to the run position, you will know the pump’s working. If not, well….it’s not.
With respect to the issue of not hearing the fuel pump, you should check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a pressure meter. If you get proper pressure when you turn the key to the run position, you will know the pump’s working. If not, well….it’s not.
If the starter is spinning, then i can’t see how the problem could be electrical in nature. The solenoid has to be getting power when you turn the key to the start position, otherwise the motor wouldn’t spin. Since the starter works in another vehicle, there has to be a problem with the teath not engaging. Is it possible that the threads are bad on the mounting bolts, nuts, or housing? Maybe they’re not pulling the housing and the starter together, or keeping them together. Probably not, but i have had it happen before. Good luck.
If the starter is spinning, then i can’t see how the problem could be electrical in nature. The solenoid has to be getting power when you turn the key to the start position, otherwise the motor wouldn’t spin. Since the starter works in another vehicle, there has to be a problem with the teath not engaging. Is it possible that the threads are bad on the mounting bolts, nuts, or housing? Maybe they’re not pulling the housing and the starter together, or keeping them together. Probably not, but i have had it happen before. Good luck.
Not at all. I would rather draw my attention to something that they genuinely and reasonably believe to be a posible unconsidered problem any time, then to spend a bunch of money and time on parts and labor only to discover that it still doesnt work.
Not at all. I would rather draw my attention to something that they genuinely and reasonably believe to be a posible unconsidered problem any time, then to spend a bunch of money and time on parts and labor only to discover that it still doesnt work.
The groove for the woodruf key on the balancer and for the protrusion on the undamaged (new) sprocket, the groove on the shaft that is, is in good shape.