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Are you saying that the engine is missing out so bad that the front end of the vehicle is shaking when the car is not moving, or that the shaking occurs when you are driving down the road. The question is whether it is the misfiring engine that is causing the shaking, or is it the car’s interaction with the road that is causing the shaking.
It is difficult sometimes to get those bolts out, but i think you should take the time and get that bolt out. All the bolts should be torqued to specifications in the sequence prescribed by the manufacturer. I thought i understood you to have,sprayed around the bolt with carb cleanerwith the result that the engine ran crappy which is what one would expect if the intake manifold is sucking in air because of a poor seal at the bolt. If this is the,case, you need to get that problem taken care of so you are not chasing your tail looking for a problem somewhere else. Good luck. Js.
It is difficult sometimes to get those bolts out, but i think you should take the time and get that bolt out. All the bolts should be torqued to specifications in the sequence prescribed by the manufacturer. I thought i understood you to have,sprayed around the bolt with carb cleanerwith the result that the engine ran crappy which is what one would expect if the intake manifold is sucking in air because of a poor seal at the bolt. If this is the,case, you need to get that problem taken care of so you are not chasing your tail looking for a problem somewhere else. Good luck. Js.
Did the problem exist prior to the engine swap? Did you have to monkey around with any of the stearing or suspension components during the engine swap? Does the problem present itself when the vehicle is coasting in neutral? Does the problem appear to be more pronounced when you get on the gas hard?
Did the problem exist prior to the engine swap? Did you have to monkey around with any of the stearing or suspension components during the engine swap? Does the problem present itself when the vehicle is coasting in neutral? Does the problem appear to be more pronounced when you get on the gas hard?
I have a perhaps dumb question. Did you blead all the wheels? If not, you may simply still have air in the lines. Just a thought.
I have a perhaps dumb question. Did you blead all the wheels? If not, you may simply still have air in the lines. Just a thought.
How many crackers does it take to put on an air filter? In my caseonly one , as long as he has some electrical tape and some plasric paper.:evil:
How many crackers does it take to put on an air filter? In my caseonly one , as long as he has some electrical tape and some plasric paper.:evil:
Put the new sprocket on. Used a new woodruf key on the harmonic balancer/accessory pulley. New bolt. Old belt was in like new condition, so I reused it. Used Eric’s signature “hold the camshaft gear while turning the crankshaft counterclockwise, then tightening the tensioner. Fired her up, and ran like a charm. I shoul probably check the timing, just to be sure it is within specs, but it ran great. I dont have the lower timing-belt cover, so i figured i would just set the camshaft to tdc, transfer the zero mark from the balancer to the engine marking it, the engine, with a white marker, then setting the ignition timing based on the location of the zero mark i made on the engine with the white marker. Anyone got an opinion as to the effectiveness of this improvised process for setting timing? The sights for setting timing on this vehicle are supposed to be on the timing belt cover. Since i have no timing belt cover, i gotta come up with an alternative method. I think it will work, but i would rather let it be than to screw it up on an unproven method. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Put the new sprocket on. Used a new woodruf key on the harmonic balancer/accessory pulley. New bolt. Old belt was in like new condition, so I reused it. Used Eric’s signature “hold the camshaft gear while turning the crankshaft counterclockwise, then tightening the tensioner. Fired her up, and ran like a charm. I shoul probably check the timing, just to be sure it is within specs, but it ran great. I dont have the lower timing-belt cover, so i figured i would just set the camshaft to tdc, transfer the zero mark from the balancer to the engine marking it, the engine, with a white marker, then setting the ignition timing based on the location of the zero mark i made on the engine with the white marker. Anyone got an opinion as to the effectiveness of this improvised process for setting timing? The sights for setting timing on this vehicle are supposed to be on the timing belt cover. Since i have no timing belt cover, i gotta come up with an alternative method. I think it will work, but i would rather let it be than to screw it up on an unproven method. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
