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2.0 TFSI correct?
I’ve seen this happen but on a much older VW with a far more archaic fuel management system. Catch cans work great on high boosted cars or track cars but for every day use they just don’t need it. Yes the early TFSI engines are known for burning a lot of oil, it still doesn’t need it. Most cans are also pieces of *@^%$ unless you spent several hundred bucks on one. Ive seen a few ebay ones leak vacuum right out of the box.
I would remove the can and the inspect whatever’s left of the stock system while you install the rest of the stock system. Remove the throttle body and have a good look inside to see if there’s any “catch” gone in there from being full and freeze expanding. Get some throttle cleaner and clean it as best you can. Start it, and let it burn off the extra cleaner. Clean the MAF with a safe cleaner too. The car I delt with like that frozen goo had been pushed into the intake and caused a lot of hell. In most cars, turbo or N/A, the catch cans usually have more trapped moisture/water/ slime vs oil residue. Oil also floats on water and doesn’t freeze as fast. So the chances its just oil/slime mess in the intake is pretty high.
Leave the catch can on the shelf or sell it to a track guy. Live with the oil burning issue and once a year use a good intake cleaner like the liqimoly one to help dilute the carbon build up that may be there. Believe me its better than paying to have the manifold removed to clean it, or having to remove the head to clean the combustion chamber. I’m not a huge fan of sea foam but in your case It may help you clean out the smaller residue after you really spray it down.
The bigger issue common with that engine is a premature failure of the diverter valve. When they fail you run rich as hell in a lot of the RPM range. Car feels like its towing a camper van and you’re fuel milage drops big time. I prefer the OEM ones, but you can buy a shiney after market one as it does the same job.
Hope you get it sorted out and you have a warm garage to do it in. I certainly wouldn’t want to have to work in a driveway or wait for a bus in the weather you guys are having right now. Were having a cold snap right now but not like yours. I don’t miss Ontario weather.
When you say knock do you mean as if someone is hammering on something hard, or more a “tink, tink” kinda noise that goes away as soon as you let off the accelerator?
youtube “engine ping”. Is that similar to what you’re hearing?
The initial noise on start up is more than likely the lifters. It can be a sign of a few things. Oil is low/worn out, the lifters are dirty and some oil cleaner and oil change is due, or they’re worn out. If the noise goes away after starting up and stays away while driving I wouldn’t worry yet.
When you say knock do you mean as if someone is hammering on something hard, or more a “tink, tink” kinda noise that goes away as soon as you let off the accelerator?
youtube “engine ping”. Is that similar to what you’re hearing?
The initial noise on start up is more than likely the lifters. It can be a sign of a few things. Oil is low/worn out, the lifters are dirty and some oil cleaner and oil change is due, or they’re worn out. If the noise goes away after starting up and stays away while driving I wouldn’t worry yet.
[quote=”grg8888″ post=79411]Well that is a weird and unusual problem. Removing the oil cap shouldn’t do much of anything. About all it does is let air into the valve cover area. Which suggests that there is something wrong with the 1 or 2 hoses that go from the valve cover to the PCV valve and to the air intake. If someone accidentally swaps those two hoses, then the PCV valve is not in the right hose and taking off the oil cap will send lots of air into the intake manifold, basically a large air leak after the throttle plate and mass airflow sensor.
I would check the hoses and the PCV valve. This really shouldn’t stump the mechanics.[/quote]
Not entirely true. Many cars simply have a PCV on the top of the valve cover that breaths directly into the manifold, not pre throttle plate. These engines are usualy very sensitive to vacuum leaks. Early watercool VWs are like that. A good sign of an air tight engine is if it stalls when you remove the oil cap.
To the original poster. If this issue is puzzeling your mechanics you need to find better ones. Like grg888 posted I bet you there is something either installed wrong, or, its the way it should be.
[quote=”grg8888″ post=79411]Well that is a weird and unusual problem. Removing the oil cap shouldn’t do much of anything. About all it does is let air into the valve cover area. Which suggests that there is something wrong with the 1 or 2 hoses that go from the valve cover to the PCV valve and to the air intake. If someone accidentally swaps those two hoses, then the PCV valve is not in the right hose and taking off the oil cap will send lots of air into the intake manifold, basically a large air leak after the throttle plate and mass airflow sensor.
I would check the hoses and the PCV valve. This really shouldn’t stump the mechanics.[/quote]
Not entirely true. Many cars simply have a PCV on the top of the valve cover that breaths directly into the manifold, not pre throttle plate. These engines are usualy very sensitive to vacuum leaks. Early watercool VWs are like that. A good sign of an air tight engine is if it stalls when you remove the oil cap.
To the original poster. If this issue is puzzeling your mechanics you need to find better ones. Like grg888 posted I bet you there is something either installed wrong, or, its the way it should be.
Start with the easy and obvious. Put new plugs in it. A weak spark can cause several issues. Start with that and go from there. After installing the plugs pour some good cleaner in the tank and then hit the highway for a couple hours of higher RPM driving. Unless the injectors are seriously clogged this method is a good and simple maintenance practice.
If its still running poorly I wouldn’t change another part until you can read the codes properly.
Start with the easy and obvious. Put new plugs in it. A weak spark can cause several issues. Start with that and go from there. After installing the plugs pour some good cleaner in the tank and then hit the highway for a couple hours of higher RPM driving. Unless the injectors are seriously clogged this method is a good and simple maintenance practice.
If its still running poorly I wouldn’t change another part until you can read the codes properly.
Looks like I found the hate thread 🙂
I will agree sometimes Ze Germans do things a bit differently but In my opinion its generally for the better. Even if it is more of a pain in the butt to service that given part of system. In that same breath though not too many engines will outlast a German one, regardless of if its VW/Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche. And hands down you will not find a car in its class that handles as nice generally, wet, ice or dry. You also cannot ignore the amount of safety built into them, decades ahead of every one else simply because of the no speed limit zones on the Autobahn.
The key to VW/Audis espessialy is what is the car being used for. If its just going to be used by an 18 year old to rat bag between school and home and learn some things with you can defiantly use no name parts, or knock offs. If you want to keep the car a very reliable one using VW parts is always best.
The second key to ANY VW is having a Bentley manual. Plain and simple.
I am a bit biased because I am a VW guy, but I don’t walk around with blinders on to other manufactures. Id defiantly work on any pain in the butt German car over a domestic any day.
To date the most awful and or “WHAT THE HELL” moment I’ve dealt with is any T-stat replacement on the later model mk2 cars and some mk3 cars. Water pump is on the bottom, T stat is also. On early cars its actually a very very fast job to drain the entire system and replace the T stat. When power steering was added to the cars the pump and its brackets cover the T stat flange meaning they have to be removed and left resting on the floor while you change it. The tensioner for the power steering belt is equally as silly.
Can anyone link me to the “Hate thread” for Jeeps? banana:
Looks like I found the hate thread 🙂
I will agree sometimes Ze Germans do things a bit differently but In my opinion its generally for the better. Even if it is more of a pain in the butt to service that given part of system. In that same breath though not too many engines will outlast a German one, regardless of if its VW/Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche. And hands down you will not find a car in its class that handles as nice generally, wet, ice or dry. You also cannot ignore the amount of safety built into them, decades ahead of every one else simply because of the no speed limit zones on the Autobahn.
The key to VW/Audis espessialy is what is the car being used for. If its just going to be used by an 18 year old to rat bag between school and home and learn some things with you can defiantly use no name parts, or knock offs. If you want to keep the car a very reliable one using VW parts is always best.
The second key to ANY VW is having a Bentley manual. Plain and simple.
I am a bit biased because I am a VW guy, but I don’t walk around with blinders on to other manufactures. Id defiantly work on any pain in the butt German car over a domestic any day.
To date the most awful and or “WHAT THE HELL” moment I’ve dealt with is any T-stat replacement on the later model mk2 cars and some mk3 cars. Water pump is on the bottom, T stat is also. On early cars its actually a very very fast job to drain the entire system and replace the T stat. When power steering was added to the cars the pump and its brackets cover the T stat flange meaning they have to be removed and left resting on the floor while you change it. The tensioner for the power steering belt is equally as silly.
Can anyone link me to the “Hate thread” for Jeeps? banana:
Like above, if the headlights were effected like that my starting point would be the alternator. There are several things to test with an alternator. The easiest is to test the battery voltage while its running at idle, then turn on some of the accessories and fan and test it.
You can test an alternators amperage output also but not all multi meters will do it.
Another good one is to turn on a bunch of the accessories and then test voltage drop between the alternator case and battery negative. Eric has some great videos on the charging system.
Another thing to consider in your diagnosis is the weather. Where I am is cold, rainy, some snow and dark early. This time of year there is far greater load on your electrical system. A cold engine is harder to crank, constant headlight use, window defroster, wipers, fan etc. If anything in the charging system is getting tired it will start to fall behind and fail as soon as it gets cold. Ask any mechanic where they get winter what the most common repair is from late fall until spring: Battery replacement, and Alternators.
Like above, if the headlights were effected like that my starting point would be the alternator. There are several things to test with an alternator. The easiest is to test the battery voltage while its running at idle, then turn on some of the accessories and fan and test it.
You can test an alternators amperage output also but not all multi meters will do it.
Another good one is to turn on a bunch of the accessories and then test voltage drop between the alternator case and battery negative. Eric has some great videos on the charging system.
Another thing to consider in your diagnosis is the weather. Where I am is cold, rainy, some snow and dark early. This time of year there is far greater load on your electrical system. A cold engine is harder to crank, constant headlight use, window defroster, wipers, fan etc. If anything in the charging system is getting tired it will start to fall behind and fail as soon as it gets cold. Ask any mechanic where they get winter what the most common repair is from late fall until spring: Battery replacement, and Alternators.
Old post I know, but in case someone later on needs similar advice with any VW of that generation on the Golf platform.
The best and easiest way to do a bearing job is to remove the steering knuckles rather than try and bash the old bearings out while still in the car. Remove the axle nut, 30mm I believe, and then lift the car to get the wheels off. Scribe some good marks on the upper knuckle where the strut mounts. Remove the caliper and brake etc. Rather than remove the lower ball joint simply remove the bigger bolt – the horizontal one – and slide the shaft of the ball joint out of the knuckle. Do it that way over removing the 3 bolts on the bottom that way you don’t disturb the alignment.
Then head over to a garage or machine shop and have the bearings swapped.
The other sneaky way is to “harvest” a set of knuckles from a wreckers. They’ll be cheap. Have bearings swapped pre hand and then just install them when the old ones come out.
The one beauty of VW shared platforms of that era especially is that you can very easily upgrade to bigger brakes, since different models or trim lines came with either basic brakes or much nicer ones.
Old post I know, but in case someone later on needs similar advice with any VW of that generation on the Golf platform.
The best and easiest way to do a bearing job is to remove the steering knuckles rather than try and bash the old bearings out while still in the car. Remove the axle nut, 30mm I believe, and then lift the car to get the wheels off. Scribe some good marks on the upper knuckle where the strut mounts. Remove the caliper and brake etc. Rather than remove the lower ball joint simply remove the bigger bolt – the horizontal one – and slide the shaft of the ball joint out of the knuckle. Do it that way over removing the 3 bolts on the bottom that way you don’t disturb the alignment.
Then head over to a garage or machine shop and have the bearings swapped.
The other sneaky way is to “harvest” a set of knuckles from a wreckers. They’ll be cheap. Have bearings swapped pre hand and then just install them when the old ones come out.
The one beauty of VW shared platforms of that era especially is that you can very easily upgrade to bigger brakes, since different models or trim lines came with either basic brakes or much nicer ones.
I remember the days of the initial tool purchase/debt. *sigh Congratulations on your new position! When I grew up Ontario didn’t have that program, instead I worked Co-op thru my highschool and got me my first good job basically changing oil and mounting winter tires all day long. Good place though, the guy smoked like a chimney and I doubt he showered ever, but was a good teacher!
Go to Canadian Tire. Mastercraft has life time on its tools. I’ve done some seriously stupid stuff to some of my tools and they handed me a new replacement with a smile. Good quality too! Id avoid buying the all in one kit, even if they are on sale. They do have a lot in them but you will find they’re always missing the one size of something when you need it most!
Go to the tool isles:
full set of metric and SAE wrenches
a set of Metric and SAE sockets deep and shallow in 3/8s drive.
Buy a 3/8s ratchet and if you really Wanna treat yourself buy a flex head ratchet, and a stubby one.
a set of extensions for the same size is handy too, including a swivel socket.If you have any money left over while your there having a 1/4″ drive ratchet and socket set is nice to have sometimes. An arsenal of 1/2″ tools is good to have but if you’re starting in the oil rack you wont need them.
I do agree that high end ratchets off the tool trucks do feel really nice but as far as doing the job the Mastercraft stuff is just as good and the warranty is easier to fudge when clearly you put a pipe on your ratchet instead of using a breaker bar.
The rest of the stuff you can buy cheaper. Get a couple of sized screwdrivers in flatblade and Phillips, Get some stubby ones too. Get a Big and Bigger hammer, and a few sizes of pry bars. After you work on the vehicles for a bit you’ll recognise what tools you still need or make life easier.
You may not end up using all the stuff a lot of the time but at least when you need it you have it, and it saves having to ask the shop foreman if you can borrow his. My old foreman gladly let me borrow his tools under the condition that if I had to borrow it twice I bought my own the next pay cheque, it went back clean and right away, and every week I had to wipe down his tool boxes.
As far as the tool boxes go it is a big hit price. My best advice is to buy bigger than you need right away. Don’t buy the cheap small sized stuff the handy man keeps in his basement. Start off with a good size roller cab with lots of drawers. Then get a top chest as you need it. Craigslist is a good place to look, and believe it or not Costco has some good tool box deals too. Last I saw they had a full 3 piece set for $400.
Edit* I thought of this after seeing their flyer on my work bench at home. If there is a Lordco in your area you can get some stuff there too. JET tools have just as good a warranty on them and usually they cut techs really good prices. I would avoid buying the JET flex head ratchet however. Theirs doesn’t use an indent pivot like Snap on, or Master craft. It only took a few weeks and it went back to them sloppy as hell. Traded it for a long handle long flex ratchet, and bought a new one from Canadian tire.
Have fun changing oil, you’ll get a lot of practice at it!
I remember the days of the initial tool purchase/debt. *sigh Congratulations on your new position! When I grew up Ontario didn’t have that program, instead I worked Co-op thru my highschool and got me my first good job basically changing oil and mounting winter tires all day long. Good place though, the guy smoked like a chimney and I doubt he showered ever, but was a good teacher!
Go to Canadian Tire. Mastercraft has life time on its tools. I’ve done some seriously stupid stuff to some of my tools and they handed me a new replacement with a smile. Good quality too! Id avoid buying the all in one kit, even if they are on sale. They do have a lot in them but you will find they’re always missing the one size of something when you need it most!
Go to the tool isles:
full set of metric and SAE wrenches
a set of Metric and SAE sockets deep and shallow in 3/8s drive.
Buy a 3/8s ratchet and if you really Wanna treat yourself buy a flex head ratchet, and a stubby one.
a set of extensions for the same size is handy too, including a swivel socket.If you have any money left over while your there having a 1/4″ drive ratchet and socket set is nice to have sometimes. An arsenal of 1/2″ tools is good to have but if you’re starting in the oil rack you wont need them.
I do agree that high end ratchets off the tool trucks do feel really nice but as far as doing the job the Mastercraft stuff is just as good and the warranty is easier to fudge when clearly you put a pipe on your ratchet instead of using a breaker bar.
The rest of the stuff you can buy cheaper. Get a couple of sized screwdrivers in flatblade and Phillips, Get some stubby ones too. Get a Big and Bigger hammer, and a few sizes of pry bars. After you work on the vehicles for a bit you’ll recognise what tools you still need or make life easier.
You may not end up using all the stuff a lot of the time but at least when you need it you have it, and it saves having to ask the shop foreman if you can borrow his. My old foreman gladly let me borrow his tools under the condition that if I had to borrow it twice I bought my own the next pay cheque, it went back clean and right away, and every week I had to wipe down his tool boxes.
As far as the tool boxes go it is a big hit price. My best advice is to buy bigger than you need right away. Don’t buy the cheap small sized stuff the handy man keeps in his basement. Start off with a good size roller cab with lots of drawers. Then get a top chest as you need it. Craigslist is a good place to look, and believe it or not Costco has some good tool box deals too. Last I saw they had a full 3 piece set for $400.
Edit* I thought of this after seeing their flyer on my work bench at home. If there is a Lordco in your area you can get some stuff there too. JET tools have just as good a warranty on them and usually they cut techs really good prices. I would avoid buying the JET flex head ratchet however. Theirs doesn’t use an indent pivot like Snap on, or Master craft. It only took a few weeks and it went back to them sloppy as hell. Traded it for a long handle long flex ratchet, and bought a new one from Canadian tire.
Have fun changing oil, you’ll get a lot of practice at it!