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I will agree the engine that came stock in our cars is a good one if tuned to spec, but for the headache in ‘race’ tuning it I’d rather just swap in something newer and better. I need a new ISV on mine. Its bypassing some air, leaning it out. Doesn’t have the pep it did. I could just turn up the fuel adjuster but Id rather it have a working ISV.
Watched your video!
That engine has some aftermarket goodies hanging off it…….. Whats the AFM, MAF set up? Doesnt look like DIgifant.I will agree the engine that came stock in our cars is a good one if tuned to spec, but for the headache in ‘race’ tuning it I’d rather just swap in something newer and better. I need a new ISV on mine. Its bypassing some air, leaning it out. Doesn’t have the pep it did. I could just turn up the fuel adjuster but Id rather it have a working ISV.
Watched your video!
That engine has some aftermarket goodies hanging off it…….. Whats the AFM, MAF set up? Doesnt look like DIgifant.The most important 2 inches of your life: Brake Chamber push rod travel…….
I just went though all that stuff a couple months back to get the endorsement on my licence to drive air brake vehicles. That’s 2 days of class time I will never get back.
The most important 2 inches of your life: Brake Chamber push rod travel…….
I just went though all that stuff a couple months back to get the endorsement on my licence to drive air brake vehicles. That’s 2 days of class time I will never get back.
In my experience building several front ends up with lighting for rally racing and back road fun LED just isn’t quite there yet. They are bright as all hell but don’t project the light as good. HID fogs are nice but you have to start getting crafty placing the ballest and running all the wiring. When it comes to accessory lights absolutly go for OEM if there is a set made for that vehicle. If not always always always buy from one of the big reputable companies IE Hella, PIAA, etc. I prefer Hella to most, I like the quality. All the big companies also sell pre made wiring/relay kits that are quick to install with a few snips and zip ties.
My last bit of advice is when you do install whatever fogs you go with, please whatever you do use a relay…..I love seeing melted switches fall out of the dash.
In my experience building several front ends up with lighting for rally racing and back road fun LED just isn’t quite there yet. They are bright as all hell but don’t project the light as good. HID fogs are nice but you have to start getting crafty placing the ballest and running all the wiring. When it comes to accessory lights absolutly go for OEM if there is a set made for that vehicle. If not always always always buy from one of the big reputable companies IE Hella, PIAA, etc. I prefer Hella to most, I like the quality. All the big companies also sell pre made wiring/relay kits that are quick to install with a few snips and zip ties.
My last bit of advice is when you do install whatever fogs you go with, please whatever you do use a relay…..I love seeing melted switches fall out of the dash.
Most of the time the “cleaning” offered even now at a lot of dealerships is just as simple as pouring a bottle of engine cleaner into the mix and then draining it out with the old oil. Its 100% cash cow. I caught and will leave them un-named a dealer up here charging full pop for “Injection cleaning” meanwhile simply poured a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank. Nothing was directly hooked up to the fuel system.
Trouble is the oil cleaner stuff works well as a maintenance item. I use it every oil change in my car. If a qualified mechanic said you need to take the engine apart to de-gunk the pig the oil cleaner additive isn’t going to do much.
I think in this case Sears just wanted to make an extra few bucks off ya.
Most of the time the “cleaning” offered even now at a lot of dealerships is just as simple as pouring a bottle of engine cleaner into the mix and then draining it out with the old oil. Its 100% cash cow. I caught and will leave them un-named a dealer up here charging full pop for “Injection cleaning” meanwhile simply poured a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank. Nothing was directly hooked up to the fuel system.
Trouble is the oil cleaner stuff works well as a maintenance item. I use it every oil change in my car. If a qualified mechanic said you need to take the engine apart to de-gunk the pig the oil cleaner additive isn’t going to do much.
I think in this case Sears just wanted to make an extra few bucks off ya.
Nice to see someone with similar taste 🙂 Looks very clean! Been busy busy with work. I usually only get online while eating breakfast…..at 5:30AM.
What engine you got packed under the hood?
Nice to see someone with similar taste 🙂 Looks very clean! Been busy busy with work. I usually only get online while eating breakfast…..at 5:30AM.
What engine you got packed under the hood?
Grew up in temps like that. Don’t miss it! Defiantly get a block heater. Even if you only use it on the coldest nights its worth it. Even if it just means your car blows warmish air right away. The other thing to look at is an oil pan heat pad. Those things are fantastic. It doesn’t matter what oil you have, when its -35 that oil turns into grease. If you can keep it mostly liquefied it will have better lubrication when it does start up. Even where I live now I have a little desk top heater I leave in my car to help warm it up on those cold mornings without having to idle it in my driveway for 20 min at 6 am. In extreme cold conditions I’ve seen guys with heated battery blankets. And in the worst conditions I know of many people who just left their pick ups running over night to keep them from freezing up.
Having a survival pack in the car is the smartest thing you can do. Even in Vancouver winter I keep a bag in the back seat on the floor with a full change of clothes, a really warm parka, an old blanket and a couple bottles of water. Keep a small collection of practical tools in there as well.
Grew up in temps like that. Don’t miss it! Defiantly get a block heater. Even if you only use it on the coldest nights its worth it. Even if it just means your car blows warmish air right away. The other thing to look at is an oil pan heat pad. Those things are fantastic. It doesn’t matter what oil you have, when its -35 that oil turns into grease. If you can keep it mostly liquefied it will have better lubrication when it does start up. Even where I live now I have a little desk top heater I leave in my car to help warm it up on those cold mornings without having to idle it in my driveway for 20 min at 6 am. In extreme cold conditions I’ve seen guys with heated battery blankets. And in the worst conditions I know of many people who just left their pick ups running over night to keep them from freezing up.
Having a survival pack in the car is the smartest thing you can do. Even in Vancouver winter I keep a bag in the back seat on the floor with a full change of clothes, a really warm parka, an old blanket and a couple bottles of water. Keep a small collection of practical tools in there as well.
You may have to use Vag-Comm software like all other Volkswagen Auto Group cars use.
You may have to use Vag-Comm software like all other Volkswagen Auto Group cars use.
Ill second the Smith and Wesson glasses! We have no choice on my job, safety glasses or go find another job. I find the S&W don’t distort and pretty good coverage too. I do find because they sit close to the face that they fog up like a bastard if its cold or wet out. Completely un-related to cars I took the small end of a tree branch to the face last week. If I hadn’t had glasses on I would have lost the eye, ended up with just a very minor scratch on the cornia instead. If I can find a pair of the S&W glasses with a yellow tint Ill be set for rainy season!
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