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I have the version that you use with a breaker bar, which works great, but my favorite way now is using a MAC L77080 harmonic balancer socket (at least I think that is still the part number), two guys in the shop have the Blue Point version, which works well, although they seem to be made of softer metal, one guy has had three break and the other guys is pretty tore up looking, the other three of us use the MAC tools version, I can have my Impact on lower power and it still breaks the crank bolts loose, a newer Tech has a lower end (and lower power) IR impact gun that has no problem getting those loose with the MAC socket.
I remember before we had the nice sockets, on one Odyssey we broke 3 1/2 breaker bars trying to get one loose. Never understood how those things get so tight.currently I have a Craftsman 42″ bottom box and a top chest, with a side cab I bought for like $200 at harbor freight, and honestly, the harbor freight side cab (other than being the wrong color) feels like the same quality, for what I spent on the Craftsman stuff, I wish I would have started with all harbor freight box, I’ve got 4 years at a Dealership with the box, and its not pretty, sometimes is a little tricky to get the drawers shut because the bottoms of the drawers have warped from having too many tools in them, but it works. another guy in the shop just bought a used bottom box Tech series MAC box, and i love how deep the drawers are and how sturdy it is, he bought it used off the MAC truck, and honestly, if or when I go to upgrade, I’d probably do the same, my SnapOn guy just repoed like 12 boxes the last couple months, so I can probably get a good deal. then again, I was just told that the shop is getting new company supplied workstation boxes, so I’ll be lucky to not have to buy a new box unless I go somewhere else. like others said before though, a tool cart can be your best friend, and as I’ve found, just organizing tools in a more efficient manner can take a crowded box and make it last longer. One of the Techs retired after 30 years and he had a MAC box (form the 70’s) that was technically a little smaller than mine, but with three or four times the tools in it, as long as you know where your tools are an you can get to them efficiently, that is what really matters
we just had to get a new A/C machine, and new A?C oil injector, and new dye, and new oil, for servicing vehicles using the new R1234yf refrigerant, looks like its going to be pretty standard for a lot of new vehicles, but honestly, I wouldn’t buy the equipment unless you were working on these types of vehicle a lot, besides most would be under warranty anyways.
I usually like doing the water pump, and timing belt tensioner while doing the timing belt, those auto tensioners are very often leaking, about 99% of the timing belts I do on those engines need the tensioner. the water pump, because its easy to do while there and you won’t have to go back and do it later if it ends up leaking. Also, I recommend the OE water pumps and they use a rubber ‘o’ ring seal and DO NOT need silicone sealant or RTV, they seal fine on their own.
Best thing to do, as this can happen very often, is like stated above, carefully roll the cam back to TDC then put the belt back on and continue with the belt replacement. (I’ve done a lot of these belt replacements, I work on Hondas all day every day).
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