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Still sounds like a wheel bearing. When you turn to the right you are alleviating pressure off the right side of the car, thus taking strain off the wheel bearing. If you hear a clicking or a thumping as you turned, then yes I would say you could have a bad CV joint. If you hear a clicking or thumping as you’re going straight down the road, then you KNOW for sure you have a bad CV joint (one that needs to replaced…yesterday!). But if it sounds like a wheel bearing, then goes away when you turn…it’s still a wheel bearing. Just jack the front end up and spin the wheel by hand (assuming the car is in neutral so the wheel can spin freely) and if you hear or feel any kind of resistance, it most likely is a wheel bearing.
There is a test that Eric also does, I’ll include the link here too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdRpnK5MGQ8
Best of luck to you!
Thanks gang for your replies. I do have a Haynes manual that outlines this particular job what seems to be in good detail. However I think I may also purchase a Chilton’s manual or some other resources because I have found with the last several jobs I have done, Haynes hasn’t always done it right. I replaced the valve cover gaskets yesterday and I want to see how that improves anything (if at all). I’m also going to check on the bottom end to see if the AT 205 did anything.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
However, with the economy being as it is and the issues we have with repair facilities doing sub par work, i can sometimes understand why motorists are hesitant to take there vehicles in for service.
I so hear you on this point. I’m so grateful that I’m blessed with mechanical bones in my body, otherwise I’m not sure what I would do every time something went wrong on my vehicles. Buying a used car over a year ago motivated me to learn more about mechanical engineering since I figured it would need work from time to time. It is an invaluable asset, that I can say without any hesitation. Being a fifth year undergraduate college student living on a tight budget at the moment, I’m so grateful that I can do small repairs and fixes myself for little to no cost.
I would have to concur with dreamer and Eric. I’m sorry to say I’m somewhat ignorant as to what makes a Windsor 302 any different compared to the standard issue Ford 5.0 302 (I guess I’ll have to do some homework…) but I know sometimes on these 302 Ford motors the bell housing bolts can be a real ***** to get to, and sometimes are hard to see; you might have missed one or two. I’d check out the Chilton’s or even if you have a Haynes manual or something similar it might be good to shed some light on your job. Best of luck to you!!
So I’m not sure what the general consensus of what I posted was, but needless to say from the comments I read that kind of a repair is only illegal in Canada. Maybe I didn’t read far enough into it, but I’m pretty sure my father would have known if this kind of repair was illegal (but I guess we’re all wrong from time to time…). If someone can tell me without a shadow of doubt that this repair is illegal, then I would ask that my post be kindly removed since I wouldn’t want to be promoting a fix that is illegal, after all.
1995 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L I6. Great vehicle, and in some ways I wish I still had it. Neat little truck that got me around; drained gas but man did it run!
Thanks gang, I’ll attempt these procedures and see what happens. I know Scotty Kilmer found a pretty cheap way of detecting the vacuum leaks instead of a smoke machine…a cigar! But either way, I’ll have to do that and check out the vid dreamer posted to see what I can come up with.
Only one incident in my short time working on cars has actually been a drastic one, costing me almost $200. I was replacing the rotors and pads on my 90 Lincoln Towncar. This is the type of rotor where the whole rotor is the wheel hub, also. There is an inner, AND outer wheel bearing in these set-ups. Well…I only found the outer bearing when it popped off the spindle, and never thought to look for an inner one (I’ve never had experience with this type of rotor before). Needless to say I installed the new rotors, installed new pads and also had decided to replace the calipers. Well you can imagine what happened next; for the next two weeks I was attempting to diagnose why I had virtually no brakes, why there was a constant grinding sound, and excessive smoke coming from the brakes. I did everything from bleeding the brakes multiple times, bleeding the master cylinder (thinking air was trapped in there), and even went back to the rotors to make sure they were “fine” and had to chisel off brake pad that had rubbed off so far onto the spindle that it didn’t hit me that the material wasn’t supposed to be there. It was only when one day I finally saw the wheels were literally cock-eyed (they were leaning from top to bottom). I drove the car home and had asked my father (who has been a car enthusiast for almost 50 years) about what had happened. He then asked me the subtle question, “You did replace the inner bearings right?” and my reply was…”What inner bearings?”. “Joe…go check those old rotors. I bet you will find inner bearings in them.” And sure enough, I stuck my finger in one of the old rotors and turned…and a bearing turned with it. S:-o
Needless to say I bought new rotors, and since I toasted the calipers from all the stress of driving on one bearing, I had to replace those too. I got a pair of new rotors for $100, and a pair of new calipers for $45. The “new” rotors which were now destroyed from being ground on the spindle, had to be discarded since the new wheel seals would not fit on them to accommodate the inner bearings, so I consider that a $115 loss and the calipers I paid another $45 to replace the first time were also destroyed. So maybe it was more than $200…needless to say…I learned my lesson, the hard way.
Quoted From hbvx:
^This. +1
I’ll add:
Most cars have a BLEED ORDER, that is to say bleeding wheels in a series/1 after another. Best to do that, IMO.
Thanks for adding this. I am oblivious to this (maybe it’s only with newer or certain vehicles?) and only know to bleed from the longest line, to the shortest. But that is a great addition, thanks!
Eric, would any kind of vacuum leak cause a problem with HVAC? I know at this time I do have a leak coming out of what I believe is the MAP sensor but cannot be sure. There might be others also, but I know there is definitely one there. Thanks for your help, I will do as you suggested with the further diagnosis.
Oh and more thing to make clear, I’m getting zero anything out of the floor setting (when its only on the floor mode). No air at all is coming through the floor when only on floor mode, however when it turn it to the defrost/floor mode, then I do get heat out of the floor vents.
Another way I know of doing it is how my gf’s father taught me (I’m sure many of you know of this method). After any and all brake work done and there is bleeding to be done, make yourself a brake bleeder. This is simply a cleaned and empty soda or water bottle (20 oz) with a hole cut in the top (large enough to accommodate a brake hose). The brake hose can come from a master cylinder bleeder kit, or you can most likely select some clear tubing sized and cut to fit at a hardware store. Fill the empty bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the brake hose in the bottle. Insert the other end of the hose onto the brake bleeder screw on your caliper or wheel cylinder. Loosen the brake bleeder screw, and pump the pedal until you can see no more air bubbles in either the hose or bottle of brake fluid. Boom, done. You may have to do the other wheels if you find that there is still air in the system. Hope this helps!
Quoted From ytram:
I think too many people have been telling so called wise tails on this. If your transmission goes out cause of changing tranny fluid, it would be probably that the person who done it did not get the filter to seal at connection point, or it fell off not long after you did it, or not proper fluid level, and possibly it was already showing signs of failure. I have been hearing this in the last few years and wonder if it is their lucky charm that it ran this long, so do not jinx it!
I think you’re right. This “wives tale” never made any sense to me either, though what someone mentioned earlier about a complete flush rather than a simple drain and fill, might still hold true to this idea. That if you completely flush the system after 80k and it never has been flushed before, might cause problems. I don’t know enough about transmissions to validate that idea but I’m sure someone here does. But what you had said, “it ran this long, so let’s not f*** things up” I think is a very true sentiment that it’s a load of bull for not doing the work, or doing it properly.