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As info. Turned out to be a bad TIPM. The one from the Salvage Yard worked but introduced other issues (horn blowing randomly) so I ordered a rebuilt one from one of the on-line sources, Rockauto I believe. So, problem solved. Thanks
Thanks for the info. The transmission control relay on this vehicle 2006 PT Cruiser is inside the TIPM. I have a spare TIPM in hand that came from a COPART car that had “Runs And Drives” marked on the window. Not a guarantee but not too bad. I’ll watch it for a while and if the symptoms reoccur I will change the module.
Cobalt Update: Well there was no valve damage. Just replaced the timing chain and balance shaft chains along with the tensioners and water pump. Runs great!
The injector was not the issue. Finished building my DIY leak down tester and went through all the cylinders twice. 3 and 4 are reading about 30% with no intake, exhaust or coolant issues. Cylinder 1 also reads 30% but I think I am hearing a slight intake valve leak. No exhaust or coolant issues on #3. Cylinder 2 is reading about 60% and definite intake leakage. No issues with coolant or exhaust on #2.
I am hearing about the same blow by on all cylinders and am planning on fixing the intake valve(s).
I should have said sticking open or otherwise delivering too much fuel at idle. The fuel trims looked good at idle a.nd 3500 rpm. This system does not have a return line instead it actively regulates the fuel delivery time for each injector. Does not have a convenient place to measure fuel pressure.
I can clearly see the cabin air filter door between the arrow in your photograph and actuator in your photograph. Granted there may not be a filter in the housing. The video I posted was a similar model and the door is a little different.
The odometer information is not recorded in the dash instruments. It resides in the ECM. And yes, the dealership can modify the parameters in the ECM such as miles, VIN etc. At least in automobiles. If the motorcycle has an ECM I would suspect the same although you can tell by checking the wiring diagram to see where the speed sensor lives and to which module it is connected.
Sounds like a electric motor noise. Could be an actuator motor or blower motor. Try removing the fuse for the blower motor or just disconnect the harness to the blower motor to see if it stops. Could also be that a varmint has made deposits in the blower squirrel cage. Some blowers run even if the HVAC is turned off to circulate/filter cabin air.
I think you misuse the tern “Professional”. My personal experiences with auto repair shops and dealerships have been less than “Professional”. In one case the Ford Dealer replaced the PCM when the ignition key was bad. The other wanted $7000.00 to replace the engine in a Dodge that I repaired for $300.00, granted they did not want to work on the vehicle. A friend was diagnosed with a blown supercharger on her miller cycle engine when it was just a bad fuel pump. They charged $400.00 for shotgun parts and diagnosis. The point is that only a small percentage of cars are repaired by fully qualified “Professionals”. The rest are repaired by guys that dropped out of high school to attend trade schools, not saying they are unskilled. Myself, I went to automotive trade school after high school then Vietnam then college and worked as a Control Systems Engineer for 40 years. Still like getting dirty.
Here is the wiring diagram. Test for voltage at the two top relay terminals. the ECM supplies ground to the relay to make the fuel pump run. If you jumper across the contacts of the fuel pump relay the fuel pump should run. DO NOT apply 12VDC to the ECM wire.
There is a problem doing parasitic draw tests on modern vehicles! Some of the draws are on timers that will take 5 minutes or so to time out and reach the off state current draw of about 40-80ma. Redo your tests and don’t forget the alternator may be directly connected to the battery. I have attached a link to a site where you can get a power distribution diagram for your vehicle. You may also consider getting a scan with an advanced scan tool that can check DTC’s that don’t set the MIL.
Does not sound too excessive to me. I owned a Saturn and it used more and ran well passing emissions. The oil is either leaking or being burned. If not leaking, look to:
1. Valve stem seals. (Smoke on start up and perhaps corners).
2. PCV valve.
3. Rings. (do a leak down test and compression test).After replacing the fouled plug the owner reported that her CEL came back on before she got to the inspection station so could not get the emissions checked. I suppose it was P0420 but she also reported that as she left town for the week the CEL went back off and stayed off. Makes me think the CAT recovered enough to meet specks. After all the O2 sensor data looked normal on both banks when I last checked. She will be back in a week and I will scan again.
