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If you are in the U.S.A.the big aftermarket auto parts stores can get replacement key fob’s (remote’s) by calling a supplier and giving them the number off of your fob and the vehicle info. I am not sure if they can tell you who makes the cars alarm system but it would be worth stopping in and having them call. I don’t remember exactly how much it costs to get a replacement but it is a lot cheaper than buying a whole system. Hope this helps.
If you are in the U.S.A.the big aftermarket auto parts stores can get replacement key fob’s (remote’s) by calling a supplier and giving them the number off of your fob and the vehicle info. I am not sure if they can tell you who makes the cars alarm system but it would be worth stopping in and having them call. I don’t remember exactly how much it costs to get a replacement but it is a lot cheaper than buying a whole system. Hope this helps.
You will need all the wiring and the computer from under the hood and the computer and wiring from inside the truck behind the glove box. The wiring harness can stay connected to the engine when you pull it out of the blazer by just unbolting it from the firewall with the bolt that runs through the center. After that bolt is removed the wiring harness will come out as a whole and save you the trouble of remembering where every plug went. The charging and starting system have a separate harness so you will have to disconnect them. As Eric stated you will need the fuel pump or an inline electric fuel pump that can supply enough pressure to the system and they are not cheap so the stock blazer tank may fit somehow. The computer behind the glove box has to be handled very carefully and you must be sure to not let even a static spark jump from your hand to the case. It takes less than .5ma to destroy this computer and it has to be grounded very well before you send power to it. Another good idea would be to hold onto the Blazer until you get the other truck running in case you need other pieces. Hope this helps.
You will need all the wiring and the computer from under the hood and the computer and wiring from inside the truck behind the glove box. The wiring harness can stay connected to the engine when you pull it out of the blazer by just unbolting it from the firewall with the bolt that runs through the center. After that bolt is removed the wiring harness will come out as a whole and save you the trouble of remembering where every plug went. The charging and starting system have a separate harness so you will have to disconnect them. As Eric stated you will need the fuel pump or an inline electric fuel pump that can supply enough pressure to the system and they are not cheap so the stock blazer tank may fit somehow. The computer behind the glove box has to be handled very carefully and you must be sure to not let even a static spark jump from your hand to the case. It takes less than .5ma to destroy this computer and it has to be grounded very well before you send power to it. Another good idea would be to hold onto the Blazer until you get the other truck running in case you need other pieces. Hope this helps.
This is just a guess but if everything else really is in good working condition you may want to check the suspension components for signs of wear. Hope this helps.
This is just a guess but if everything else really is in good working condition you may want to check the suspension components for signs of wear. Hope this helps.
Here is the truth about synthetic oil. During the refinement process the oil is filtered several times and elements are “cut” from the crude oil to obtain a base consistency that is then modified into the different types of conventional oils that have been used for years. Someone discovered that one of the “cuts” that were removed from the master batch had a better uniform consistency in its molecular structure and could be made into a superior oil because the additives could be more precisely adjusted to obtain optimum protection against wear and thermal breakdown. This molecular structure is a lot smaller than conventional oil so it tends to flow into tighter tolerance areas but can also leak past worn seals etc… Most people hear synthetic and picture some guys in doctor robes with beakers and such but the truth is not quite so glamorous.
Here is the truth about synthetic oil. During the refinement process the oil is filtered several times and elements are “cut” from the crude oil to obtain a base consistency that is then modified into the different types of conventional oils that have been used for years. Someone discovered that one of the “cuts” that were removed from the master batch had a better uniform consistency in its molecular structure and could be made into a superior oil because the additives could be more precisely adjusted to obtain optimum protection against wear and thermal breakdown. This molecular structure is a lot smaller than conventional oil so it tends to flow into tighter tolerance areas but can also leak past worn seals etc… Most people hear synthetic and picture some guys in doctor robes with beakers and such but the truth is not quite so glamorous.
I would start by inspecting all of the emission hoses for cracks or damage. Usually you will find the rubber has dry rotted or the hard plastic tubing will become brittle and break very easy and most of the emission codes are caused by leaks. Hope this helps.
I would start by inspecting all of the emission hoses for cracks or damage. Usually you will find the rubber has dry rotted or the hard plastic tubing will become brittle and break very easy and most of the emission codes are caused by leaks. Hope this helps.
It is probably the A.B.S. control box. Some of the vehicles from around that year had a brake system that had to be bled with a computer to activate the A.B.S. pump and force the air from the system. I would recommend that you take the car to a mechanic that you trust and have them give you an estimate for the repairs. When it comes to the brake system you don’t want to take chances. Hope this helps.
It is probably the A.B.S. control box. Some of the vehicles from around that year had a brake system that had to be bled with a computer to activate the A.B.S. pump and force the air from the system. I would recommend that you take the car to a mechanic that you trust and have them give you an estimate for the repairs. When it comes to the brake system you don’t want to take chances. Hope this helps.
Just another quick tip. The Dodge trucks from the late 90’s to a few years ago had a similar issue. The E.V.A.P. canister is hidden under the air box or fuse panel depending on application and the hoses are prone to cracking and setting off codes. They made the hose molded into a tight U shape and replacing this with a longer hose will fix the issue. It won’t look as pretty but it will save the headache of ordering the factory replacement and doing it over every few years.
Just another quick tip. The Dodge trucks from the late 90’s to a few years ago had a similar issue. The E.V.A.P. canister is hidden under the air box or fuse panel depending on application and the hoses are prone to cracking and setting off codes. They made the hose molded into a tight U shape and replacing this with a longer hose will fix the issue. It won’t look as pretty but it will save the headache of ordering the factory replacement and doing it over every few years.
A lot of aftermarket catalytic converters are not made to fit your application and are left plain to keep the cost down. If you get one of these you will probably have to cut the pipe from the old unit and weld it onto the new one to make it fit the vehicle as well as any hangers or extra shields that may be used on the vehicle. If that sounds like more than you want to get into make sure that your search is for made to fit versions. There are several different companies that make them so shopping around will still usually save you a good bit of cash. Hope this helps.