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Yeah, use a shop vac to clean it seeing as you can access it from what you are saying, also if it has an accessible evap drain tube under the car, the Toyota Evaporator cleaning kit will remove a good bit of debris from the evap and also kill any mold and
You can dry to use vise grips to keep as much pressure as possible on the shank of the joint to the other linkage, this can help but may not be enough, if its a nylon lock nut that is being reused especially on a rusty component try cleaning rust off the
most will open KOEO if you floor the accelerator pedal. Which is what I should of done, but yeah I hear what you’re saying, all I wanted to do was try to smooth my idle on cold starts a touch. (not that it was that bad, just didnt seem right) Well…. ironically I got a clean throttle now… :-/ wish I just would of left well enough alone… Uhhhh being stupid and young lol….
found a dealer that had one, so I bought it, installed it in their parking lot lol, and sent it back in to their shop to have the idle learn done and update the ECU. Drove 178 miles in Limp Mode… not fun lol. I needed to be out that way anyway for plans me and the girl had made.But long story short the new TB fixed it. Now I had cleaned it myself and damaged it somehow, screwed up the sensors, so I was gonna eat the money on it, after an hour of it in their shop they came out and gave me a refund on the TB saying it was warranty, I never told them what happened to it, just that I had replaced it cause of a problem with it. So I got really lucky in this situation. Now Im with Eric here… Im not gonna ever clean a fly by wire set up again… NOT WORTH IT!!! lol…. As for the car, idles great now.
no unfortunetly. And honestly I dont even think they ever reflashed my ecu, just reset the idle learn. The old TB had a circuit fault, guess the cleaner found its way into the potentiometers and cooked em. Lesson learned, dont clean Electronic Throttle Bodies
already performed that, was talking with a guy I work with, hooked up the Tech II and the throttle just ignores the relearn command, wires look good, signals look good, however its almost like its missing a ground, yes its a 5v ref but with it plugged in we werent expecting to see 5.01v on body refs all the time, normally its around 4.8v. As far as we can tell its gonna need the throttle body… go figure, try to do my car some good and it bites me in the ass. knew i should of bought a ford lol….. as of right now its giving me a constant eng power reduced message… so wounderfull. Might go try a junk yard throttle body.
I’d like the say that would fix it, but all leads are pointing towards the tb and now its a hard circuit fault… Im gonna hope someone in the area actually has one on stock. Ill update whats going on, also gonna see about having the ecu reflashed anyway cause im sure the calibration is way out of date.
I was thinking toward what you just said, but as far as I can tell it appears that the Idle speed is controlled by the throttle plate itself, if im wrong please tell me, maybe I could remove the TB and clean the IAC if it has one
Yes Im with College Man on this, these are also the steps that I would take to start addressing this concern.
Makes perfect sense to me as long as you can devise a way to constantly keep suppling the trans with new fluid during the process and not over fill it. Might be interesting trying not to make a mess, I know nissans for example even the cooler lines are around 70 PSI on some models.
+1 I’ve replaced my fair share of wheel bearings and ball joints and have not experienced an alignment issue or wobble. Double check your work and if you still aren’t sure take it to a good shop to be looked over to be safe 😉