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Number 1 piston at the top of the stroke with the valves shut on the head for that cylinder. Install the cam sprocket onto the cam to get the alignment marks exactly where they need to be. As long as the number 1 piston is at T.D.C. you will be fine. To be safe rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise a few inches so that all of the pistons are in the middle of the stroke and install the head. After you are sure the cams are set to the correct position rotate the crank back up to T.D.C. turning it clockwise and install the belt. This will not work for chain driven engines but should help calm your nerves. Hope this helps.
Number 1 piston at the top of the stroke with the valves shut on the head for that cylinder. Install the cam sprocket onto the cam to get the alignment marks exactly where they need to be. As long as the number 1 piston is at T.D.C. you will be fine. To be safe rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise a few inches so that all of the pistons are in the middle of the stroke and install the head. After you are sure the cams are set to the correct position rotate the crank back up to T.D.C. turning it clockwise and install the belt. This will not work for chain driven engines but should help calm your nerves. Hope this helps.
The sway bar end links are usually the cause of the noise on the front of those vehicles. If you jack up one side of the vehicle at a time to inspect them the force from the other wheel will make them seem tight. You have to lift and support the entire front end with both wheels off to accurately check for movement if you cant get at them with the vehicle on the ground. they used a ball and socket design on them that resembles a tie rod but has a plastic insulator inside the cup that wears out rather fast and will eventually separate completely. If you intend on keeping the vehicle there are better options out there that don’t have the plastic on metal design but cost more. You get what you pay for though. Hope this helps.
The sway bar end links are usually the cause of the noise on the front of those vehicles. If you jack up one side of the vehicle at a time to inspect them the force from the other wheel will make them seem tight. You have to lift and support the entire front end with both wheels off to accurately check for movement if you cant get at them with the vehicle on the ground. they used a ball and socket design on them that resembles a tie rod but has a plastic insulator inside the cup that wears out rather fast and will eventually separate completely. If you intend on keeping the vehicle there are better options out there that don’t have the plastic on metal design but cost more. You get what you pay for though. Hope this helps.
I use mine occasionally when I have several small fasteners to remove or install like on an oil pan etc… You have to be careful because the torque they have is deceiving and you can over tighten or even break the heads off of small fasteners fast. It seems to work really well when removing stubborn or rusted fasteners too. I don’t use mine every day but it has come in handy quite often. Mine is a Bosch but I am sure the Ryobi will perform about the same. Hope this helps.
I use mine occasionally when I have several small fasteners to remove or install like on an oil pan etc… You have to be careful because the torque they have is deceiving and you can over tighten or even break the heads off of small fasteners fast. It seems to work really well when removing stubborn or rusted fasteners too. I don’t use mine every day but it has come in handy quite often. Mine is a Bosch but I am sure the Ryobi will perform about the same. Hope this helps.
Yes you will have to drop the exhaust to get the transmission out. Be careful with the hoses that run behind the engine when you are dropping it because they will get caught and pull off of the engine or crack the plastic parts. Good luck and I hope this helps.
Yes you will have to drop the exhaust to get the transmission out. Be careful with the hoses that run behind the engine when you are dropping it because they will get caught and pull off of the engine or crack the plastic parts. Good luck and I hope this helps.
I am not sure if that vehicle has the wipers that draw farther down when the wipers are off or not but the problem is one of two things. Either the bracket that connects to the wiper motor from the wiper transmission was installed upside down or the indexing lug was not set into the correct location when the new motor was installed. The directions that should have come with the replacement motor are hard to understand but the important thing to get aligned is the lug must catch the indexing arm at the correct alignment to get the wipers to draw down into the off position. Hope this helps.
I am not sure if that vehicle has the wipers that draw farther down when the wipers are off or not but the problem is one of two things. Either the bracket that connects to the wiper motor from the wiper transmission was installed upside down or the indexing lug was not set into the correct location when the new motor was installed. The directions that should have come with the replacement motor are hard to understand but the important thing to get aligned is the lug must catch the indexing arm at the correct alignment to get the wipers to draw down into the off position. Hope this helps.
The electric fans are not turning on. This can be due to a bad fuse, temperature sensor, fan motor or wiring issue. I would start by checking the fuses. If they are good locate the relay for the cooling fan and switch it with another relay. There are usually several of the same relay used on different accessories. If the accessory you switched relays with stops working after the switch the relay is bad. Next try starting the engine and turning the air conditioning on. This will either turn on another fan or override the temperature sensor because the fan will generally run non stop while the A/C is on. If the fan still does not come on the problem is most likely the fan motor itself but could be the wiring that goes to it and will need repaired or replaced. Hope this helps.
The electric fans are not turning on. This can be due to a bad fuse, temperature sensor, fan motor or wiring issue. I would start by checking the fuses. If they are good locate the relay for the cooling fan and switch it with another relay. There are usually several of the same relay used on different accessories. If the accessory you switched relays with stops working after the switch the relay is bad. Next try starting the engine and turning the air conditioning on. This will either turn on another fan or override the temperature sensor because the fan will generally run non stop while the A/C is on. If the fan still does not come on the problem is most likely the fan motor itself but could be the wiring that goes to it and will need repaired or replaced. Hope this helps.
You can use one of the cheap gauges that come with R134A from your local parts store. If the system does not have the correct pressure in it the pump will not cycle to prevent damage. This can happen if the pressure is too high or too low so simply shooting more R134A into the system assuming that it is low may actually make the problem worse. A/C systems do not consume refrigerant so if the system is low there is a leak. The O-rings that seal the system generally last for quite a while but they will eventually start leaking and will keep getting worse until they are changed. I would recommend that you take it to a certified A/C garage to have this done though. The R134A should be reclaimed and the system should be vacuum tested before recharging to ensure the repair is complete. Hope this helps.
You can use one of the cheap gauges that come with R134A from your local parts store. If the system does not have the correct pressure in it the pump will not cycle to prevent damage. This can happen if the pressure is too high or too low so simply shooting more R134A into the system assuming that it is low may actually make the problem worse. A/C systems do not consume refrigerant so if the system is low there is a leak. The O-rings that seal the system generally last for quite a while but they will eventually start leaking and will keep getting worse until they are changed. I would recommend that you take it to a certified A/C garage to have this done though. The R134A should be reclaimed and the system should be vacuum tested before recharging to ensure the repair is complete. Hope this helps.
If every fuse you pull changes the draw on the battery you are either doing the test wrong, Have recently had a major meltdown in the fuse panel or have a bad ground strap. Start by making sure everything is off in the vehicle and take the bulb out of the under hood fixture and keep the keys in your pocket. Hook the tester up to the battery so the contacts stay connected and set it to show how much draw there is on the battery. Watch the screen for 30 – 45 seconds so it has time to shut down the computer etc… If you see a really high amp draw check the starter and other high load parts. If the draw is rather low begin pulling fuses slowly and watch for the load to drop. When the load drops to less than .5 amp you have found the circuit that is causing your problem. Next you have to follow the wiring for everything on that circuit to determine what is wrong. Hope this helps.