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yup, I have a 93 yukon, which is basically the same as yours. I had the same surge at idle at stop signs and whatnot too. Replace my EGR valve and works great. Maybe it was bumped or something when you did your other repairs. Say, I was wondering how that intake spacer plate is working out for you. I’ve been told about improved gas mileage and all that. I think that just one or two cables or something had to be adjusted to get everything to normal? is that right? mileage go up?
yup, I have a 93 yukon, which is basically the same as yours. I had the same surge at idle at stop signs and whatnot too. Replace my EGR valve and works great. Maybe it was bumped or something when you did your other repairs. Say, I was wondering how that intake spacer plate is working out for you. I’ve been told about improved gas mileage and all that. I think that just one or two cables or something had to be adjusted to get everything to normal? is that right? mileage go up?
Thanks to all who answered back. I think he is going to bring it to a shop. Like the link that CollegeMan sent, the trans. side pan has to come off no matter what to get to the shift solenoids anyway. I gonna go out on a limb and say its gonna get new fluid and a filter too. I will have to let you know later on how it goes. Thanks to Eric too, i agree that it may need an overhaul or seals/boots replaced in side it causing the problems. This is a great site. This isnt even my car and so many people want to help. Thanks to everyone who puts so much time and effort into everything on here.
Thanks to all who answered back. I think he is going to bring it to a shop. Like the link that CollegeMan sent, the trans. side pan has to come off no matter what to get to the shift solenoids anyway. I gonna go out on a limb and say its gonna get new fluid and a filter too. I will have to let you know later on how it goes. Thanks to Eric too, i agree that it may need an overhaul or seals/boots replaced in side it causing the problems. This is a great site. This isnt even my car and so many people want to help. Thanks to everyone who puts so much time and effort into everything on here.
I did forget get to mention a few things i guess. The tractor should have a power source for the trailer abs. We run freightliner cascadias and columbias, and they have a 30 amp fuse for trailer abs. If that fuse pops due to shorting,grounding,etc, that will cause the trailer abs to come on. How the tractor reads the abs computer, i think its done through pulses. the tractor and trailer computers “talk” by sending and receiving pulses to one another. Some of the plug in abs testers for trucks and trailers will pulse lights in the tester that you have to count and figure out what it means. Kinda like eric’s video on pulling those honda codes without a scanner. The trailer abs doesnt have its own power source, so thats why the lone plug in the cord is there, and why the trailer abs will cycle whenever its turned on, or whenever you brake, or when there is a fault. Like you said, there is kind of a mystery in figuring that abs stuff out, and like you, i got curious and just got to looking for answers.keep em comin and i’ll try to help if i can
ryanI did forget get to mention a few things i guess. The tractor should have a power source for the trailer abs. We run freightliner cascadias and columbias, and they have a 30 amp fuse for trailer abs. If that fuse pops due to shorting,grounding,etc, that will cause the trailer abs to come on. How the tractor reads the abs computer, i think its done through pulses. the tractor and trailer computers “talk” by sending and receiving pulses to one another. Some of the plug in abs testers for trucks and trailers will pulse lights in the tester that you have to count and figure out what it means. Kinda like eric’s video on pulling those honda codes without a scanner. The trailer abs doesnt have its own power source, so thats why the lone plug in the cord is there, and why the trailer abs will cycle whenever its turned on, or whenever you brake, or when there is a fault. Like you said, there is kind of a mystery in figuring that abs stuff out, and like you, i got curious and just got to looking for answers.keep em comin and i’ll try to help if i can
ryanfor tractors there are a few options. To pull info out of the diagnostic port, i know bendix makes a plug in type light tester that will kind of lead you in the right direction. I dont think a tractor can induce a fault in the trailer, unless there is a bad connection in the 7-con plug going into the trailer. Most commonly in the trailer, ive found a broken corroded wire somewhere underneath in the factory wiring and factory connectors. As for the wheel sensors, you need to check the resistance with an ohmmeter. Its really impedence, but ohmmeter will read it. You dont have to spin the wheel to check. There should be a plug connection right by the brakes where the wheel sensor wire comes out, thats one place to check. Also to check from the abs computer to the sensor, just unplug it from the computer and check the ohms there. This goes for the tractors as well. I think that the impedence should be between like 900 and 2300 ohms for a good wheel sensor. If it needs to be replaced, then driving the trailer or tractor should reset the computer once it sees that the wheel sensors are working. Also, our shop has a tester called a “lite-check”. Thats the brand name anyways. That can read ABS faults both pending and stored, erase them, and tell you lots of info. Even tell you how many miles the trailer has gone with the abs powered up. Hope this helps.
ryanfor tractors there are a few options. To pull info out of the diagnostic port, i know bendix makes a plug in type light tester that will kind of lead you in the right direction. I dont think a tractor can induce a fault in the trailer, unless there is a bad connection in the 7-con plug going into the trailer. Most commonly in the trailer, ive found a broken corroded wire somewhere underneath in the factory wiring and factory connectors. As for the wheel sensors, you need to check the resistance with an ohmmeter. Its really impedence, but ohmmeter will read it. You dont have to spin the wheel to check. There should be a plug connection right by the brakes where the wheel sensor wire comes out, thats one place to check. Also to check from the abs computer to the sensor, just unplug it from the computer and check the ohms there. This goes for the tractors as well. I think that the impedence should be between like 900 and 2300 ohms for a good wheel sensor. If it needs to be replaced, then driving the trailer or tractor should reset the computer once it sees that the wheel sensors are working. Also, our shop has a tester called a “lite-check”. Thats the brand name anyways. That can read ABS faults both pending and stored, erase them, and tell you lots of info. Even tell you how many miles the trailer has gone with the abs powered up. Hope this helps.
ryanWell, almost a week and no leak. I’d say this one is fixed. Thanks for all the info and ideas. Could’nt have done it without you all. (“Stay dirty”-ETCG)
Ryan
Well, almost a week and no leak. I’d say this one is fixed. Thanks for all the info and ideas. Could’nt have done it without you all. (“Stay dirty”-ETCG)
Ryan
Ok, here’s the scoop. I bought a new trans. filter set and 7 more quarts of ATF +4. I took the pan back off, cleaned, and reassembled. I did use blue RTV, but only on the pan side under the gasket so as to make sure it got a good seal and didn’t get any on the housing itself, or very little. I think College man and SDMAN1981 are very correct. I am pretty sure I torqued the fasteners down too tight causing my problem. I consulted the service manual, and found that they needed to be torqued to 13ft/lbs. So I did just that, in an alternating pattern starting in the middle to the outside. I also put the flange of the pan on a 2×4 and tapped down the inside of the flange at the fastener locations to correct any damage I may have caused due to over-tightening. Just wait and see now. Bad thing is I was daydreaming and forgot to put the magnet back in!!! I took it back down and put it back in and went through the whole torque process again. I hope this works.
Ok, here’s the scoop. I bought a new trans. filter set and 7 more quarts of ATF +4. I took the pan back off, cleaned, and reassembled. I did use blue RTV, but only on the pan side under the gasket so as to make sure it got a good seal and didn’t get any on the housing itself, or very little. I think College man and SDMAN1981 are very correct. I am pretty sure I torqued the fasteners down too tight causing my problem. I consulted the service manual, and found that they needed to be torqued to 13ft/lbs. So I did just that, in an alternating pattern starting in the middle to the outside. I also put the flange of the pan on a 2×4 and tapped down the inside of the flange at the fastener locations to correct any damage I may have caused due to over-tightening. Just wait and see now. Bad thing is I was daydreaming and forgot to put the magnet back in!!! I took it back down and put it back in and went through the whole torque process again. I hope this works.
I used hi-tack spray on adhesive to “stick” the gasket in place before installation. I figured that would keep it where it needed to be. I guess im just trying to avoid what appears to be the inevitable, taking the pan back down. I wont reuse the ATF +4, I’ll have to go buy some more.
I used hi-tack spray on adhesive to “stick” the gasket in place before installation. I figured that would keep it where it needed to be. I guess im just trying to avoid what appears to be the inevitable, taking the pan back down. I wont reuse the ATF +4, I’ll have to go buy some more.