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I HATE CARS EXCEPT PORSCHE AND FERARRI BECAUSE WHEN THEY BREAK YOU, AND THEY WILL, YOU HURT REALLY BAD, WORK MORE HOURS IF YOU HAVE A JOB TO PAY FOR PARTS UNLESS YOU CAN AFFORD PSYCHOTIC MAINTAINENCE COSTS , OR ARE TOO OLD TO SEE OVER THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN YOU FINALLY CAN AFFORD THAT F430 OR GT-2 TWIN TURBO,AND CAN’T HOLD A WRENCH TO STAY ON TOP OF THEM…..BUT ALL THE TEARS DRY,AND BANKRUPCY ISN’T SO BAD IF YOU SOME HOW GET TO KEEP THE FRICKIN CARS AND FEEL THE BUZZ WHEN YOU START THE ENGINE AND DRIVE THEM! OTHERWISE YOU GO TO THE GRAVE WISHING YOU COULD FEEL ANY THING BUT A SECOND JOB BECAUSE 52% OF AMERICANS ARE EMPLOYED PART TIME UNDER 30K PER YR. MOST UNDER 20K …NEAR POVERTY THANKS TO OVOMIT THE HUN AND ALL THOSE DC REGULATIONS, TAXES,LICENSES,INSPECTION FEES AND STIMULATIONS AND SEQUESTERS AND LIES THAT SOUND AND LOOK LIKE PROGRESS IF YOU DRANK THE COOL AID! 99% OF ALL ON LINE BUSINESSES ARE LUCKEY TO SEE 300 A MONTH IN INCOME WITH 5K INVESTED AND THATS PROJECTED NOT GARANTEED!
I HATE CARS EXCEPT PORSCHE AND FERARRI BECAUSE WHEN THEY BREAK YOU, AND THEY WILL, YOU HURT REALLY BAD, WORK MORE HOURS IF YOU HAVE A JOB TO PAY FOR PARTS UNLESS YOU CAN AFFORD PSYCHOTIC MAINTAINENCE COSTS , OR ARE TOO OLD TO SEE OVER THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN YOU FINALLY CAN AFFORD THAT F430 OR GT-2 TWIN TURBO,AND CAN’T HOLD A WRENCH TO STAY ON TOP OF THEM…..BUT ALL THE TEARS DRY,AND BANKRUPCY ISN’T SO BAD IF YOU SOME HOW GET TO KEEP THE FRICKIN CARS AND FEEL THE BUZZ WHEN YOU START THE ENGINE AND DRIVE THEM! OTHERWISE YOU GO TO THE GRAVE WISHING YOU COULD FEEL ANY THING BUT A SECOND JOB BECAUSE 52% OF AMERICANS ARE EMPLOYED PART TIME UNDER 30K PER YR. MOST UNDER 20K …NEAR POVERTY THANKS TO OVOMIT THE HUN AND ALL THOSE DC REGULATIONS, TAXES,LICENSES,INSPECTION FEES AND STIMULATIONS AND SEQUESTERS AND LIES THAT SOUND AND LOOK LIKE PROGRESS IF YOU DRANK THE COOL AID! 99% OF ALL ON LINE BUSINESSES ARE LUCKEY TO SEE 300 A MONTH IN INCOME WITH 5K INVESTED AND THATS PROJECTED NOT GARANTEED!
YEA AND THE REASON WHY THE EPA FU**ED US ROYALLY WITH THE THREAT OF CONFISCATING EVERY OUNCE OF R-12 AND NOT INFORMING SERVICE STATIONS TO GIVE THE GOOD AND BAD SIDE OF CONVERSION TO R-134, THAT WE NOW KNOW DESTROYS R-12 COMPONANTS BECAUSE R-134 IS MUCH MORE DENSE AND REQUIRES EVERY PART OF THE SYSTEM TO WORK 10 TIMES HARDER….THIS TREE HUGGING BULL SHIT SHOULD NEVER HAVE HAPPENED AND R-12 SYSTEMS SHOULD HAVE BEEN LEFT ALONE! THERE WAS A REASON WHY THEY WORKED SINCE THE CONCEPT OF AIR CONDU WAS INTRODUCED 40 YEARS AGO !
YEA AND THE REASON WHY THE EPA FU**ED US ROYALLY WITH THE THREAT OF CONFISCATING EVERY OUNCE OF R-12 AND NOT INFORMING SERVICE STATIONS TO GIVE THE GOOD AND BAD SIDE OF CONVERSION TO R-134, THAT WE NOW KNOW DESTROYS R-12 COMPONANTS BECAUSE R-134 IS MUCH MORE DENSE AND REQUIRES EVERY PART OF THE SYSTEM TO WORK 10 TIMES HARDER….THIS TREE HUGGING BULL SHIT SHOULD NEVER HAVE HAPPENED AND R-12 SYSTEMS SHOULD HAVE BEEN LEFT ALONE! THERE WAS A REASON WHY THEY WORKED SINCE THE CONCEPT OF AIR CONDU WAS INTRODUCED 40 YEARS AGO !
WHEN THAT HAPPENS …DON’T TURN THE ENGINE OVER…..TIME FOR THE BICYCLE…PROBLEM SOLVED!…BUT IF YOU MUST KNOW LIKE MANY GERMAN CARS YOU MUST PURGE THE SYSTEM OF AIR….THE VALVE IS USUALLY LOCATED ON TOP OF THE RADIATOR TRANSFER HOSE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BLOCK OR ENGINE AREA. YOU WILL HAVE TO HUNT FOR A FITTING NEAR THE EDGE OF THE HOSE MOUTH ON THE NECK OF THE BLOCK BRACKET USUALLY ONE MACHINED PIECE. LET THE SYSTEM RUN AND OPEN THE NUT OR BOLT SLIGHTLY AND EXPEL SOME FREEZE! 2-4 OZ. NOT MUCH…UNTIL IT IS CLEAR OF BUBBLES……OR BUY A BUBBLE GUN, RIDE THE BICYCLE OR TAKE THE BUS AND REMEMBER CARS AND TRUCKS ARE THE BANE OF OUR EXISTENCE WHEN THEY PEE ALL OVER OUR PLANS MUCH LIKE OUR PETS!
WHEN THAT HAPPENS …DON’T TURN THE ENGINE OVER…..TIME FOR THE BICYCLE…PROBLEM SOLVED!…BUT IF YOU MUST KNOW LIKE MANY GERMAN CARS YOU MUST PURGE THE SYSTEM OF AIR….THE VALVE IS USUALLY LOCATED ON TOP OF THE RADIATOR TRANSFER HOSE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BLOCK OR ENGINE AREA. YOU WILL HAVE TO HUNT FOR A FITTING NEAR THE EDGE OF THE HOSE MOUTH ON THE NECK OF THE BLOCK BRACKET USUALLY ONE MACHINED PIECE. LET THE SYSTEM RUN AND OPEN THE NUT OR BOLT SLIGHTLY AND EXPEL SOME FREEZE! 2-4 OZ. NOT MUCH…UNTIL IT IS CLEAR OF BUBBLES……OR BUY A BUBBLE GUN, RIDE THE BICYCLE OR TAKE THE BUS AND REMEMBER CARS AND TRUCKS ARE THE BANE OF OUR EXISTENCE WHEN THEY PEE ALL OVER OUR PLANS MUCH LIKE OUR PETS!
Yo Yo …make a can of Chem Tool part of the MK2 diet. only 1 oz per 3 gal per gas or one full can 22 gal. you have mechanical injectors and several issues come up like dounut seals that should be replaced on each unit to avoid manifold leaks and power loss, and be sure those injectors are fanning fuel not dripping fuel …..clean and inspect. keep an eye on the banjo fitting on the front of the fuel distributor and be sure you get strong fuel spit at least 80 psi if you release the bolt slightly car running rag in place, If you don’t see that kind of pressure, suspect the tank transfer pump and or the main chassis pump, they work in unison and often fail together.
They are happy drowning in fuel, if for any reason there is even minor restriction of fuel flow , they heat up and blow and then take a vicious bite out of your ass and wallet ! CISe and CIS digi’s fall into this catagory a real pain in the ass…..and old porsche systems are almost identical…imagine that! one more thing always suspect fuses…check the box and fuel pump fuse is seated not loose, and check the knock sensor fuse if you have one.
If those 2 fuses are jumped which was common practice to start the car every time you turn the key(that’s the way it is because of the piss poor bundle wiring in V-dubs and a shit box full of electrical issues and Quirks) be sure you use a 12 gauge wire not 16 or 18 or you will burn the fuse slots over time with arch. the wire gauge is everything to carry current! And Don’t disconnect the tach for any reason…it monitors 6 different electronic fuel functions on the CIS systems….!
Yo Yo …make a can of Chem Tool part of the MK2 diet. only 1 oz per 3 gal per gas or one full can 22 gal. you have mechanical injectors and several issues come up like dounut seals that should be replaced on each unit to avoid manifold leaks and power loss, and be sure those injectors are fanning fuel not dripping fuel …..clean and inspect. keep an eye on the banjo fitting on the front of the fuel distributor and be sure you get strong fuel spit at least 80 psi if you release the bolt slightly car running rag in place, If you don’t see that kind of pressure, suspect the tank transfer pump and or the main chassis pump, they work in unison and often fail together.
They are happy drowning in fuel, if for any reason there is even minor restriction of fuel flow , they heat up and blow and then take a vicious bite out of your ass and wallet ! CISe and CIS digi’s fall into this catagory a real pain in the ass…..and old porsche systems are almost identical…imagine that! one more thing always suspect fuses…check the box and fuel pump fuse is seated not loose, and check the knock sensor fuse if you have one.
If those 2 fuses are jumped which was common practice to start the car every time you turn the key(that’s the way it is because of the piss poor bundle wiring in V-dubs and a shit box full of electrical issues and Quirks) be sure you use a 12 gauge wire not 16 or 18 or you will burn the fuse slots over time with arch. the wire gauge is everything to carry current! And Don’t disconnect the tach for any reason…it monitors 6 different electronic fuel functions on the CIS systems….!