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Per my copy of the Factory Service Manual 1996-2000 Civics should have their fluid changed at least every 30k. I have a ’98 LX and the FSM was a good $75 investment.
Go to the local auto store & get some SeaFoam TRANSTUNE-add that to your trans & drive around (getting up to highway speeds) for 10-15 minutes.
While you’re at it drive to your local Honda Dealership and buy some new A/T fluid (the older ATF-Z1 was found to sludge up and solidify in the tranny-Honda changed the chemical formulation in 2010 and now calls it Honda ATF-DW-1). The 2000 sedan takes 2.9 US qts per the FSM but double check at the dealership just to be safe.
Once you get home put your oil catch pan down & pull the AT drain plug. Be careful to avoid burning yourself.
Add the new reformulated ATF and drive around.This happened to fix the problem for me-exact same issue as you. If this DOESN’T fix it get your mechanic to install a new shift cable.
large flat head screwdriver + hammer
aim flathead near the end of the filter as far away from the filter screw on thread as you can and smack away with the hammer until it punctures the filter. rotate filter using the screwdriver handle until it loosens up. remove screwdriver and continue to remove oil filter by hand.
to avoid this issue in the future
1.) lubricate the NEW oil filter’s gasket with oil and
2.) don’t over-tighten the filter. only hand tighten the filter do NOT use a filter wrench to tighten a new filter[quote=”Danny09″ post=154233]Just curious about people’s opinions about when to move on to something newer- Check engine light one, flashes on occasion after engine is been driving around for a while, (Cylinder 4 mis-fire.) Of note ABS light. 115K, but overall car in good condition.
Need a ‘decarb’ procedure done (Dealer wants 800 dollars) and suggests new fuel injectors- Available online $1100.
So anywhere from $2k-$3k needed.
2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.5L (Rare Direct inject engine) 4WD. auto.
Any thoughts on doing this work, or a pointless expense that should go into something newer? Looking to get a solid 5 more years part time use so not looking to gain a lot more debt. Think this will fix the problem?[/quote]
Cheap quick decarb-Can of Seafoam induce about 1/3 of the 1 pint can into the intake manifold with car at operating temp(brake booster line if you have it and it runs direct to the IM is great for it). Turn off vehicle & wait 5 or so minutes. Turn on vehicle & watch all the burned carbon shoot out your tailpipe as burned smoke. Toss the rest into your fuel tank to clean out the fuel tank, lines, and injectors.
Fuel injectors can be had online (www.rockauto.com) for $139 + s/h per injector
For mis-fire check plugs, plug wires, integrated ignition coils (built into the plug wires in newer distributorless cars), and timing.
Get the ABS light checked and read by a local mechanic (not the stealership) ASAP and go from there.
[quote=”dosmastr” post=78771]im thinking its the core is plugged even though the coolant was pretty clean. have to hit up the inlaws who have an air compressor this weekend.[/quote]
Instead use Eric’s video tip
[quote=”dosmastr” post=78771]im thinking its the core is plugged even though the coolant was pretty clean. have to hit up the inlaws who have an air compressor this weekend.[/quote]
Instead use Eric’s video tip
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/156-3rd-generation-2005-2012/
Seek there and ye shall find!
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/156-3rd-generation-2005-2012/
Seek there and ye shall find!