Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
If you’re getting the timing belt done you should also get
the crank & cam shaft seals done IF they are starting to leak,
any belts that need to be removed for access to the timing belt & water pump assembly (p/s belt, alternator belt)
as well as valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals if they are worn/leaking/cracked.[quote=”htc1x” post=158203]Hi,
1997 Honda Civic DXWhat changed this oil change was I bought Valvoline 10w-40 in 1.25gal and the FRAM High Mileage filter, both of which I’ve never used. I usually use Rotella 15w-40 1 gal and regular FRAM. [/quote]
Why in the WORLD are you using that thick of an oil on that engine? You should be using 5W-30 on that engine! Thicker oil will put more wear on the oil pump and be more likely to blow gaskets-I strongly suggest that you drain and refill with the proper viscosity oil.
For future reference here is a link to one of the many Honda forums out there:
[quote=”aminah” post=157536]Update, we have the OBD2 back (bad 10 amp under the hood), code PO303. 3 cylinder misfire. If a sensor of the OE# 375XX-PNB-003 series , it’d be likely the camshaft (510) and not crankshaft (500)?[/quote]
You would want the DENSO manufactured Camshaft and Crankshaft position sensors. DENSO is the OE supplier.
DENSO 1962004 Camshaft Position Sensor
DENSO 1962003 Crankshaft Position SensorP0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected is your actual code the 2nd character is always a ZERO 0 and not an O.
However what you have is a misfire which can be caused by any number of things. You also have a distributor-less ignition system with ignition coils built into the spark plug boots.So your causes could be:
Bad Spark Plug
Bad ignition coil boot
Bad Camshaft sensor
Bad crankshaft sensor
Incorrect Air/Fuel ratio
Valve/timing issuesAmong other things.
Here’s a link that can help more than I can: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/2.4L/how-to-test-a-misfire-condition-and-misfire-codes-1
Here is a video that may help:
How to fix the Freestyle ‘splody CVT box:
http://www.myfordfreestyle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6161
[quote=”nightflyr” post=156557]Best to hook up a scan tool and see if there are any codes that might indicate a problem.
I can tell you that my 2002 Nissan will show a CEL at certain mileage intervals. (~ 7,500 – 10,000 miles )
The code (which I can’t specifically recall the # ) shows specific manufactures (Mercedes, Audi and VW) and component issues having nothing to do with my Nissan.
I can only assume that it trips this odd ball code at specific intervals to remind the driver to service there car..[/quote]Not the CEL the maintenance required light-2 separate things.
This was my favorite website when I worked at Merchant’s Tire & Auto. http://oilreset.com/
Stu,
Run do not walk to the nearest service center that will preform a 4 wheel alignment. That is one of the few things a DIY just is unable to do. Preferably prior to your scary steering causing an unfortunate accident.
Here’s your answer:
http://www.stanleysubaru.com/blog/2012/may/24/what-does-this-light-on-my-subaru-dashboard-mean.htm
http://www.stanleysubaru.com/blog/2014/october/30/what-does-this-light-on-my-dashboard-mean-deep-dive-moving-parts-and-lights.htmHow to make the blasted thing STOP blinking
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/security-warning-light-183098.html?s=97e5677c2fed665ebb844ccfb9d37178&Also here’s a copy of your owners manual-for free, from Subaru:
http://www.planetsubaru.com/subaru-owners-manual.htmFinally every push button start equipped car ALSO has a “midget” key inside the fob, it just takes some figuring out how to remove and finally there is usually a slot just under the push button start that the entire fob can go into and simulate inserting, turning, and removing a key. Personally I think it’s a coolish feature to have but when I worked at a service shop it was also a pain in the rear for folks who would literally forget to leave us the remote-we couldn’t pull the car in and do the work. Most places will now ASK (repeatedly if necessary) when the customer tells them “Oh I don’t need a key to start it” for the remote fob OR for the customer to hand it to the counter person who will then remove the midget key and then instruct the customer to put the fob itself in the slot in the vehicle.
I second his recommendation-except I’d suggest to grab it from eBay. I got a corded Milwaukee for about $60 with shipping from eBay only lightly used.
For starters you shouldn’t be running straight water in your radiator- you should be running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze & distilled water.
Secondly it sounds like you have a leak somewhere- http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
peruse that link and work through all the troubleshooting steps eric outlines and see if you can find the leak.Also just curious what is the climate like where you live if you ARE running straight water in your radiator?
As for the brand-no idea it varies depending on what place you go to. Some have supplier agreements while others are supplied by another division of their parent company (Merchant’s parent company also owns NAPA AutoParts so all filters, parts, etc came from them). My suggestion would be to ask them to show you a sealed filter (i.e. one still in the box/shrink wrap from the supplier) and the manufacturer will be easy to see.
As far as what is used unless you are going to a fly-by-night place they should all have access to common databases either in online or print catalog form that list the recommended oil type and filter from the manufacturer. Of course my personal recommendation is to use the base oil until 75-100k miles and then switch to a high mileage version that oil. Of course this advice does NOT apply if the base oil is a full synthetic-just keep running it for the life of the engine.
[quote=”Parlay Slow” post=154702]Thanks. If I go the route of changing the pads, any advice on a brand and product line? What retailer has good pricing and selection?[/quote]
These guys can answer your question better than me:
[quote=”myfavecoupe_” post=154596]Nice thanks. The oil change places I’ve seen pump the same oil into cars from a big drum, I’ve always wondered what the weight is coming out of them.[/quote]
Different weights (5W-30, 0W-20, 10W-30, etc) and different blends (conventional, part-synth, hi-mileage, full synthetic) are all in different drums and the drums are labeled accordingly when shipped from the supplier to the shop. When a different oil is called for the pull hose is simply switched to another drum or a manual crank pump is attached to the drum (if the pump hose isn’t long enough to reach it) and is then cranked to draw oil into a designated container which is then poured into the vehicle. The “standard” base oil is conventional 5W-30 at most places nowadays.
Source: Me working at Merchant’s Tire & Auto as an oil change/tire tech
For the ’98 Civic the “Honda Oil Filter” is manufactured by Denso, painted red or black and has a Honda logo stamped on it. You can get them at RockAuto for $3.50 + s/h or larger capacity filter from Wix for $4.95 ea when buying a 12 pack.
Friendly advice-do NOT buy or use FRAM oil filters. They are pieces of garbage. For ’92-’00 Hondas use Wix, Denso, or Mann oil filters.
Sources: http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/chassis-code-cheat-sheet-other-specs-too-2581875/
http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-your-guide-buying-quality-aftermarket-maintenance-parts-your-civic-3114911/
http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/oem-parts-seller-list-2059889/
http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faqs-frequently-asked-tech-questions-1998336/