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Came out clear right?
All the DEX is gone.
However you either have a ton of air and/or water still in the system.
Many engines have an engine block coolant drain plug hidden somewhere. If you can find it that may help.
Also purge the air from the system per Eric’s videos.
It’s there I promise….if there has been any rough handling of the driver’s side fuse box the plug may have slipped out of it’s mount & behind the fuse box. But it is DEFINITELY there.
Or a previous owner may have removed the 16 pin plug from its mount and relocated it down & to the RIGHT of the driver’s side fuse box-which I have done myself.
See below pictures for what I’m talking about
That cutout in the metal is to the LEFT of the driver’s side fuse box in North American vehicles.
Where I’ve relocated mine (out of the cutout designed for the plug and to the RIGHT of the fuse box.
Many times after you clean & reassemble the IACV & TB you need to perform some minute throttle adjustments using the idle adjustment screw (in your case built next to the throttle opening) due to the gunk buildup you just flushed out holding the throttle screw at the proper spot.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1575913
http://s639.photobucket.com/user/RonJ_HT/media/picture_4760.jpg.html
Honda-Tech is my go to source for all my needs after my 1996-2000 Civic FSM.
Save yourself some headache, buy Brembo rotors (OEM rotor supplier for Honda/Acura) from an online wholesaler such as Rockauto.com. They’ll last longer and be able to be turned unlike the Bosch pieces of crap sold by most parts stores. Also ceramics all the way-brake dust is worse for the health of the rotors, calipers, and of course YOU the end user.
EDIT: Just checked my FSM (I have a ’98 Civic)-the EX has 262, the LX/DX/HX has the 240. Look around on the internet for the FSM for ’96-’00 Civics it’ll save you some headaches in the future
[quote=”Alec40″ post=160656][quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=160561]-15 is within operating parameters for LTFT on a Toyota. While not ideal, it is not causing the P0420.
May need to replace the downstream O2 sensor.. Also, ensure you use only Denso brand on Toyotas…
Karl[/quote]
Karl, thank you for your response. Is there anyway to accurately backyard test an 02 sensor? Or is the scan tool the only real way? I understand how to follow a live graph on an 02 sensor but do not own a scan tool and the closest autoparts store with one available for use is 30 mins away. I dont mind taking the ride but was just curious if you know any solid ways to test an 02 sensor.[/quote]
Use a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) you can pick one up for ~$20 from most local hardware stores or a Walmart. Then search around for the proper voltage readings you should be getting and how to get them. A place I suggest you check is http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/ and copy and paste the post thread you made here over there as well. As that is a Toyota Camry forum they may be able to provide more help than we can.
Penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Zep Penetrant is a must have when working on cars to help loosen stuck fasteners and bolts. Invest in some and spray whatever bolts you are attacking with it LIBERALLY. Makes life a lot easier and keeps you from breaking stuff. Which brings me to my next detail-looks like you broke a sensor or electrical connector of some sort as that piece of “hose” looks like part of a wiring loom.
Good luck finding a replacement for that, I suggest you check local junkyards and plan on buying a whole new throttle body. 🙁
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE TO YOUR CAR GO GET A COPY OF THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL FROM THE LINK IN MY POST. Then figure out what that sensor is and how to get a replacement for it using the FSM. Like I said above have fun searching junkyards, you can harvest most stuff from 1997-2002 4 cylinder Accords.
As far as where to find parts on RockAuto look under Variable Timing Spool Valve Filter-that will be a replacement for the clogged/corroded micofilter inside the VTEC solenoid and it comes with the gasket. Other sources of GENUINE OEM Honda Parts are:
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/
http://www.hondapartsnow.com
https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/Anyway for the best help you can get here, please specify the following as a baseline:
-Model Year
-Make/Brand
-Complete Model (include EX, LX, GT, GLS, DX, X-Drive, 4matic, Clubman, Anniversary Edition, etc)
-Engine/Transmission/4WD/2WD
-Country (market) the car was sold inAnyway for the best help you can get here, please specify the following as a baseline:
-Model Year
-Make/Brand
-Complete Model (include EX, LX, GT, GLS, DX, X-Drive, 4matic, Clubman, Anniversary Edition, etc)
-Engine/Transmission/4WD/2WD
-Country (market) the car was sold inReturn the ripoff code reader and get your money back. If you absolutely MUST have a scan tool grab a GOOD one from the wholesaler all my mechanic friends (guys who run their own Dial a Mechanic-We Come to You business down in NC) use:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/dhgate/162324357.html/?utm_source=pla&utm_medium=GMC&utm_campaign=carobd&utm_term=162324357&f=bm|162324357|112010-VehicleTools|GMC|Adwords|pla|carobd|US|112010002-DiagnosticTools|c||&gclid=CLyzm72G3LoCFallOgodmjMAXQ
Go here: http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/
And start by reading the FAQ. Then read about replacing all the leaky distributor seals (there is an internal one as well as an O-ring that both leak like crazy). Since you have gotten the dizzy out and back in again it should be no problem.
Once you’ve done that grab a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) from here:
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/downloads.php?do=cat&id=7The one you’ll want is “Honda Accord Service Manual 1998 – 2002”
All that overheating probably warped your head-how severely isn’t known. That can be tackled at a later point in time.
EGR has NOTHING to do with the transmission, but cleaning it can’t hurt.
Get a new VTEC solenoid gasket-they run about $6. Use RockAuto.com-anything you buy from them is guaranteed fitment or a full refund.
In addition to replacing the gasket or O-ring(s) (which do wear out over time remember) on your P/S pump replace the hose clamps especially if they are the original ones. Again that is a total maybe $10 fix. Replace the belts, don’t bother trying to clean them-they are about $5 each but to keep them clean degrease the pulleys that have been now coated with PS fluid. Brake cleaner works WONDERS as a de-greaser and is only $2/can at WalMart (just buy the cheapest most generic stuff you can).
The transmission issue can probably be fixed by buying a can of SeaFoam TransTune running that through the transmission at highway speeds and then doing a drain and refill with HONDA AutoTrans Fluid also called ATF-DW-1 (if you want to buy it in bulk online for el cheapo). Crud builds up in the transmission over time and Honda transmissions DO NOT have a removable filter (whole damn trans has to be ripped apart to replace the filter). A co-worker of mine had the same problem and the SeaFoam + fresh fluid fixed it. It could also be your throttle cable being old and stretching a bit Eric has a video on how to re-tighten it.
The P0420 and 0430 can be caused by:
-a loose gas cap gasket (replace the gas cap),
-leaking vacuum lines in the EGR system (replace them),
-leaky intake or exhaust manifolds-more specifically their gaskets giving out or the manifolds themselves developing hairline cracks (replace worn gaskets, spot weld cracks),
-worn O2 sensors (replace them with OEM sensors made by DENSO run about $25 /ea on RockAuto) being as you have both 0420 & 0430 this is probably it,
-or yes a bad cat.A copy of the FSM will guide you through virtually everything you need to do to the car and how to do it. Feel free to ask us any further questions you may have. Also fixing the transmission issues and the codes should net you better gas mileage.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=159972]In some cases, you really have to do some simple math and ask yourself if it’s worth buying some rando part off ebay versus spending a couple dollars more for a part that is guaranteed to fit properly and last. Do the math, your car is 17 years old, most seals start to fail around 10 years.
The Vtec system operates of carefully regulated oil pressure and there’s no telling what could happen if a small amount of sealant got stuck in a n oil passage.
Go get either a legit factory part or a quality aftermarket part and be done with it. Unless the part is specifically identified with manufacturers and part numbers, there’s not telling what kind of failed quality control stuff you’re buying on ebay. If it was a part that is normally several hundred and you can get it for a fraction, then take the chance. But a small seal? Just get a known good part.[/quote]
New quality VTEC solenoid gasket 5.54 + shipping on RockAuto.com
[quote=”mx4cc904″ post=158449]Hey guys – My daughter’s 99 Accord is showing the P0420 error, which indicates a probable bad Cat. The transmission is really starting to slip bad in the first two gears, especially when cold, and I think I’ll need to replace the PS pump sooner than later, but need to confirm leak sources when weather gets better. Point is if I have to replace the CAT, maybe an aftermarket would be sufficient? Just now sure how much longer I can milk this car’s life but so far it’s doing great. Has zero body damage so it’s actually in really great condition.[/quote]
P0420 can be caused by a number of things from a loose gas cap to a vacuum leak to a bad O2 sensor. On my 98 Civic I had to replace both O2 sensors & and the gas cap which fixed the issue. Doesn’t mean your cat is bad. If you want a new one check out RockAuto.com for lower prices on OEM parts.
Check the O2 sensors per the FSM (link is http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/downloads.php?s=8256d3d0947a0ba1a897843ee82991cd&do=cat&id=4 ), check the gasket on the gas cap, check for vacuum leaks, pirate air problems, leaking IM or EM gaskets, etc
RE: The transmission run a can of SEAFOAM TransTune through the transmission and run the car at highway speeds for at least 10 minutes. While you’re doing that stop at the dealer & buy honda auto trans fluid (ATF-DW-1) or ebay/google for DW-1 transmission fluid if you’d rather. Auto trans takes 2.6 quarts and be prepared for the TransTune to kick a lot of sludge free. The older Honda formulation (ATF-Z1) was found to have a nasty property of sludging up after a few years so Honda changed it in 2010. Did this suggestion to mine about 2 months back & shifts wonderfully now at 196k.
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