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OBDII was required on all cars sold in the US and Canada starting with model year 1996. Period. Where is “here”?
Please check for intake and/or exhaust leaks as well as vacuum leaks to sort out the idle issue.
Brad,
Usually the most complex issues have simple solutions:
-have you checked, cleaned and re-tightened all the grounds?
-have you looked up a wiring diagram for that particular circuit?
-have you dropped anything down into the plastic trim or “boot” that covers the actual stick shifter?Couple of questions:
240 miles
EXACTLY how much gas/petrol did you pump in after said 240 miles, use THAT number not your tank capacity number. I can get about 28-29 highway in my 1998 Civic.
Besides what oil you are using, when was the last time you performed a tune up?
Yea get some cheap copper NGK/Denso plugs from Autozone put them in & try to fire it up or rent this tool:
Also get the battery checked, I don’t care if it has a “jumper pack” on it, those things can overcharge & prematurely wear out a battery not to mention batteries have an avg service life of 5 years.
Alright so let’s work with what we’ve got. Probably going to have to look at replacing ALL hoses + flapper valve that have that garbage in it. Easy cheap replacement is an eBay silicone hose kit.
New valve:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=869883&cc=1425451&jsn=341If you haven’t already, make sure you are using an OEM Honda T-stat….apparently most imports only like OEM T-stats and aftermarket ones tend to cause issues (see: Honda/Acura, Toyota/Lexus, etc).
Good luck. Hopefully your friend learned his lesson.
Look into Eric’s now non-profit Fixing It Forward program, since he has partnered with a group down in GA, USA they might be able to help you out.
Start looking at replacing the valve and/or hoses leading to/from the heater core. The stop leak probably jammed them up too 🙁
Stop leak====EVIL
Dumb question but we know that your car is
2006 Honda Accord LX 2.4L I-4 (inline 4 cylinder)What kind of trans….I”m guessing Auto by the code but just to sure you do have an Automatic correct?
Per Accord FSM:
[QUOTE]DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck OFF
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
3. Drain the ATF (see step 3 in ATF Replacement ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material.
Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material?
YES – Replace the transmission.
NO – Replace the ATF (with HONDA TRANSMISSION FLUID NOT GENERIC), then go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
6. Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the torque converter clutch solenoid valve operates with the HDS.
Is a clicking sound heard?
YES – Go to step 6.
NO – Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve, then go to step 13.
7. Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176°F (80°C).
8. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS.
Is the system OK?
YES – Go to step 7.
NO – Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the tester result. Go to step 13 if any part was replaced.
9. Test-drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 2 minutes while monitoring the vehicle speed with the HDS.
10. Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/ Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail.
Does the result indicate FAILED?
YES – Repair the faulty torque converter clutch mechanism, torque
converter clutch hydraulic circuit, lock-up shift valve, or lock-up control
valve, or replace the transmission.
NO – Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 9 and recheck.
11. Reconnect all connectors.
12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
13. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
14. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
15. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC P0741 indicated?
YES – Go to step 6.
NO – Go to step 16.
16. Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs Menu with the HDS.
Does the result indicate PASSED?
YES – Troubleshooting is complete. If any other DTCs were indicated in step 15, go to the indicated DTC’s troubleshooting.
NO – If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 6. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 14. [/QUOTE]I would strongly suggest you take it back to the folks you paid $300 and ask that they refund your money or make it right. The reason no one has told you what to do is that you stated this problem started after work done by a shop. Any time that happens if the customer then attempts their own fixes the shop will refuse to fix their mistakes. We’re actually trying to save you $ in the long run. Nothing they did should have affected the A/C system and if they did a proper flush there shouldn’t be rust flakes left in the system.
Have you actually confirmed that it is indeed brake fluid? And not say water from an external leak or coolant from a damaged coolant hose/heater core pipe.
That would be my first step.As long as it’s an OEM part/part specifically designed for your model of vehicle eBay is fine.
Note I said “generic or universal fit” parts.
[quote=”christianswe24″ post=177613]A quick update since last post:
After driving the car on the highway and revving it hard and then slowing down and stop the car to go outside and see if there was any exhaust smoke there wasn’t any at the moment when the car was idling but it did smell like rotten eggs. I decided to head back home again and when I parked the car and let the car idling I noticed that the problem reappeared with a lot of exhaust smoke and the smell of burnt eggs and I also noticed that when revving the car at standstill to about 5000rpm that I could hear a rattle. Does this mean that the catalytic converter has gone bad? Because what I know about catalytic converters is that when they go bad they make the car very weak in uphills because the loose parts inside the catalytic converter moves and clogs the exhaust system? Because my car doesn’t feel weak at all when driving on uphills but maybe that’s the cause of the exhaust leak that makes the exhaust gases escape through the leak instead so that the car won’t die/get weaker if the parts in the catalytic converter clogs up?
If that’s the case then I will have to look into a brand new catalytic converter because the used ones are as expensive as new catalytic converters since there are pretty cheap catalytic converters(brand new) on Ebay.[/quote]
1: It is federally illegal to install a used cat in the United States. I don’t know about EU or Canadian regulations but I would imagine that they have similar if not stricter regulations. That you used KMs as your initial unit of measure and the fact that the A3 1.6L Audi wasn’t sold in the US in 1998 leads me to believe that you aren’t writing from the U.S.
2. For critical parts relating to the emissions, engine, safety or any other system please use parts specifically designed for your vehicle and not generic eBay or “universal fit” parts. The Cat is one of those parts that falls under the heading of critical to the function of the vehicle and many non-U.S. nations require you to keep your vehicle in environmental compliance with the OEM specifications to pass environmental and/or safety inspections (i.e. MoTs in the UK). That said the final choice in parts is up to you