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Bleed the system of air-Eric has a video on how. Then we’ll go from there.
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Pictures if possible….If all else fails I would say just do an early oil change to get the filter out of the way.
[quote=”gingerdude” post=180527]Well I got it back apart. New water pump is junk. When turn it in my hand and I can hear it whining![/quote]
Say it with me-Use OEM parts for critical jobs and do the job right the first time or use cheaper parts and do it twice.
[quote=”Tharmon” post=180520]I’ve been reading that I can unbolt my pre cat O2 sensor and run the engine with the hole exposed temporarily to test for a clogged muffler is this a smart way to test it? If so I plan on testing it once with current retarded timing then advancing it to where it should be to see if its working properly.[/quote]
NO! Just NO!
Alright in case you can’t visually identify the parts of your exhaust it goes like this (I have the same ’98 civic btw):
Exhaust Manifold/Cat with O2 sensor (one welded unit in our civics)—>post cat 02 sensor—->A pipe—>midpipe with resonator—>muffler—>exhaust pipe
Also you mentioned all the parts you replaced so I have a few questions:
1.) When you replaced the plugs & plug wires did you use NGK/DENSO parts?
2.) When you replaced the Thermostat & temp sending sensor did you use OEM Honda parts?
3.) Have you checked the rest of your exhaust system to ensure you don’t have a rusted out metal gasket or loose connections between everything I listed up there?
4.) When was the last time you did a transmission fluid change or Honda ATF flush?Happy Thanksgiving to you & everyone else watching! For me I’ll be spending Thanksgiving & Friday at work as all employees are required by company policy to work both of those days. 🙁
Partly thanks to you and your videos, I am an entry-level technician currently working as a quick-lube and tire service tech in the Southwest VA area and studying for my ASE exams. Is there anyway I can physically get involved in Fixing-It-Forward as an entry-level tech i.e. NOT donating money?
Also what are your thoughts on federally-mandated (in the U.S.) TPMS sensors? In my opinion dealing with them on a daily basis they are an unmitigated PITA! The light can come on for any number of reasons including: (no need to read past here on air it is just included for everyone else)
Un-relearned or improperly relearned sensors after replacing a broken one or a tire rotation.
Air pressure GREATER or LESS than 3PSI from stated specification on the door label.
Change in outside air temperate (air expands in warmer weather & contracts in colder weather).
Low battery in a sensor (batteries aren’t replaceable-failure of a battery means purchase of a new sensor is required).
Seized valve stem causing sensor failure due to the fact that all sensors have copper or brass valve cores both of which easily corrode instead of stainless steel cores used for decades. At my place of employ we routinely swap out the corroded stems for stainless whenever we perform tire service at no charge.Thanks and stay dirty,
Josh from Blacksburg, VA (look at your 2016 meetup board I’m on there)
flat-head screwdriver and bang away at the rusty ring. Also penetrating oil is your friend here. And you should have disconnected all the electrical connectors you could before dropping it.
Finally make sure you are leaking fuel and it’s not just your A/C drain or another fluid. Your sense of smell should help you out here. Seeing as I have no way to see vehicle schematic of your suv I have no idea of where you are describing so pictures please!
[quote=”knookle89″ post=179759]No panel access above tank on rendezvous. I guess in have to drop the tank off the vehicle….What should I change when I do get it off the vehicle?
Fuel pump and filter obviously but should I also replace Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid?(I think its on the fuel tank?…lol) If its stuck open I should get a check engine light(Haven’t run it very much so maybe it didn’t trigger?) and fuel vapor might be leaking…. Anyone deal with this type of emission system before? Am I thinking about this wrongly?[/quote]
Nope just the fuel pump and sending assembly….trust me if the vapor canister vent valve is leaking or stuck open you’ll SMELL it instantly. Especially if you have to drop the tank to do it there should be a drain plug somewhere on the underside of the tank.
Ideally oil should never be consumed, simply cycled through the pressurized system to cool and lubricate the engine. It means you have a leak somewhere either internal or external. Also are you using high mileage or fully synthetic oil?
Had same problem on my ’98 Civic. Issue was low quality mounts. Part numbers for genuine HONDA mounts:
50810-S84-A84 RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (ECM)
50806-S0A-980 RUBBER, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (AT)
50821-S84-A01 RUBBER, ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING
50840-S84-305 STOPPER, FR. ENGINEStrangely and unusually Europe was slower on the implementation of OBD2. Within Europe OBD (also known as EOBD) became mandatory for all new European car designs in 2000, existing cars in 2001 and diesels 2004 (however most manufacturers implemented it significantly earlier – as many cars were also sold in the US).
Provided you treat them right (regular maintenance if necessary, minimum abuse, catching and addressing any issues early, etc) most factory parts should last AT LEAST 100k miles. Of course if buying a used car, your mileage may vary (no pun intended).
General fuel pump replacement procedure:
1.) Remove fuel tank cap and any fuse(s) or relay(s) that power the fuel pump and attempt to turn over the engine for 10-30 seconds. After doing so REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE! This step causes fuel pressure to be released and prevents you from being sprayed while removing fuel connections later on. It also serves to kill the electrical connections to the pump and prevent sparks or electrical discharge while working on the fuel tank components
2a.) Drain fuel using the built-in fuel drain plug if so equipped into an appropriate clean container (usually UNDER the vehicle, may or may not have to remove the spare tyre to access it).
2b.) Whether you can drain the tank or not perform this work in an open area with windows down and doors open to prevent vapour build up and of course wear gloves & eye protection at minimum.
3.) Remove components to reach fuel tank access door/plate. In most cases with an upper access this requires removing part or all of the rearmost seat(s) and/or trim parts in the cargo storage/boot area. In other cases with an access plate/door on the side or on the bottom of the tank ensure that you have a large catch container to capture the fuel that will be flowing out and ample rags to soak up any spilt fuel.
4.) After getting access to the plate disconnect any fuel lines and wiring that flow to it or the fuel sending unit/pump and reach into the tank to remove the fuel sending unit and pump (generally will be one large combined unit).
5.) Depending on the vehicle the unit may be replaced as a combined pre-assembled module or individual components can be replaced. Combined/pre-assembled units are easier to replace than individual components.
6.) Set aside the old unit and put the new unit in place. DO NOT FORGET TO ATTACH AND FULLY SECURE THE SMALL FUEL STRAINER BEFORE INSERTING THE NEW UNIT IN THE TANK. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN CAUSE THE STRAINER TO DETACH AND JAM THE NEW PUMP CAUSING INSTANT PREMATURE FAILURE.
7.) Secure any bolts, screws or hold downs that hold the unit in place and reconnect any disconnected fuel lines.
8.) Clean up any spilt or dripping fuel residue as well as let any and all vapours dissipate before reconnecting the electrical connections to the unit. Sparks + fuel vapors can result in an early appearance in the local obituary columns or a very unpleasant trip to the local Accident & Emergency Centre.
9.) After reconnecting electrical connections pour any caught fuel that is not old or contaminated back into the tank using appropriate means.
10.) Fill tank to at least 50% capacity if possible, then reconnect negative battery cable and attempt to start engine.
11.) If engine successfully starts, turn off vehicle and continue to reassemble all removed components (trim, seats, etc, etc)
12.) Drive to local filling station and fill tank until the pump shuts off. DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR TANK!Wait a second….I thought they stopped making Civic’s with ELDs after the 2000 model year?!
But yea if he has one that could easily be the issue.
Is your gas actually $1 / Litre?
Alright the stated capacity is 18 US gallons or about 68.1374 Litres……so no 10L is NOT enough.
In general the more that you run a fuel pump in a tank less than 25% full (FYI: about 17.03435 litres) the more additional wear you will put on the pump. A fuel pump is actually COOLED by the fuel it is submerged in. The more the pump overheats by trying to pump that last little bit of fuel out the faster it will die. Get the pump replaced and then FILL UP your tank. Don’t let it drop below about 15 litres in the future if you want the new pump to last for a while.