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Eric,
Josh again, just before I posted the question to you at the last AMA I had a conversation about making more money with my Dad which prompted my question to you. Just after I saw your reply I searched for NATEF accredited automotive programs and to my surprise I found that the community college 2 minutes from my work has an 18 month training program. I am now enrolled and hope to start this summer or this fall at the latest.
Anyone else wanting to get similar info can go to:
http://www.natef.org/natef-and-you/students-parents/find-accredited-schools.aspx
And perform a simple search.
Thanks for the straight talk and stay dirty!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Didn’t TOUCH anything having to do with the timing. Not the crank bolt, not the timing belt, not the dizzy.
My name is Josh and I met you at the very awesome meet up last July.
Any advice for an entry-level tech with job interviews to move beyond entry level 20 hr work weeks? I have lots of side-work/shade tree type experience (alternators, starters, brake jobs, etc) but only 9 months in a shop (WalMart Auto Care Center) just doing oil changes and tire work-and have most of my own basic tools. Self taught (lots of your videos and my Automotive Technology book) and I’m sick of being broke.
Do a 3 x 3 drain and refill with HONDA FLUID. If it still occurs after that, take it to a shop that specializes in transmissions. There is very little you can do with an auto trans other than a drain & refill or replacement.
The p0730 indicates some internal malfunction of the automatic transmission, chances are you are doing more damage to it by driving on it while its obviously malfunctioning. You may want to start looking at pricing a salvage yard transmission. Also what is the mileage on this vehicle?
Eric,
My name is Josh.
3 Questions for you answer as many or as few as you want.
1.) I am an entry level tech currently changing tires, oil, and batteries for Wal-Mart while studying for my ASEs (A1-A8/9) and got into this field because of you, in fact I met you at the 2016 meet up (Josh from Blacksburg, VA on the big board of signatures from it). Is there any way I can contribute to Fixing It Forward in a physical (non-monetary) manner? Or in plain English wrench on some things/spread the word because I’m rather broke?!
2.) Being an entry level guy any interview tips? I have interviewed several places and interview poorly resulting in no call-backs/hiring, due in part to my ADD/ADHD! I have an interview tomorrow with a Goodyear Garage the next town over and another interview about 2 hours earlier from a Honda dealer in the same area. Yes I have my own basic tools-thanks to your tool reviews and the informative posts in the Technician’s only forums.
3.) What are your thoughts on U.S. Federally Required TPMS sensors? In my opinion they are a pain in the rear and cause additional headaches for the consumer and technician for many reasons (don’t want to write you a novel here).
Try this instead: Replace the sensor to the LF wheel and then clear the codes by pulling the ABS fuse for at least 30 seconds.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1353047&cc=1167263&jsn=400
Did you bleed the cooling system of ALL the air? As in did the fan come on, it dropped in temp and then you increased the rpms to have it come on a 2nd time?
Please watch Eric’s how to bleed a cooling system video and ensure you get ALL the air out. Some pockets can stay resident for a long time if bleeding is done improperly.
Nope they have two different connectors and are idiot-proofed the one you’ll want to look at is a small single wire one prong plug. Also there is supposed to be a ground wire attached to the thermostat housing, if that is loose or missing it could cause what you are describing, there is a ground that runs from the engine to the body just above and another just below the driver’s side headlamp assembly-those also have a habit of coming loose and/or breaking.
Finally what model of Civic is it? DX, LX, EX, etc
By temp spike do you mean the gauge goes up a bit or are you reading temps with a scan tool or IR thermometer? The cluster gauge is just an approximation and has nothing to do with the temp sent to the ECU, there are 2 different sensors located just under the distributor 1 sends signal to the gauge and the other sends the actual temp to the ecu. I would strongly suggest going to a Pull A Part or local junkyard and grabbing a new OEM fan switch, and the 2 sensors. If you have an aftermarket fan switch installed they can and do fail. Just replace all 3 of them with OEM parts, which I just did about 2 hours ago myself-my fan, gauge and temp sensor all work properly now.
I think Walker also makes some that are decent. But any Cali Emissions Cat will be expensive period.
The quick and easy way to confirm the fan works is to unplug it from the switch and stick a paperclip into both terminals completing the circuit. If the fan and wiring are good the fan should kick on to it’s highest setting. Ensure your hands and other important items are no where near it when doing so though-for obvious reasons.