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So about the crap-tastic transmissions you were changing out daily on the TL, CL, MDX, and Honda Accord, Pilot, and Odyssey of the same era. Honda finally settled a class action lawsuit on January 2nd of THIS YEAR regarding them:
https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/honda-5-speed-transmission-class-action-settlement.shtmlIt sounds more like missing or damaged brake hardware, the small clips on the caliper housing that help hold the pad still than anything else such as a bad caliper. You can purchase brake hardware usually for $20 or less at most auto parts stores. I would suggest checking for that and attempting to fix it with new hardware before giving up.
What size Engine (i.e. 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.5L, etc)? Since it’s a GM product it’s bound to have a Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM)-essentially to save size, $$$, and theoretically potential problems GM took most of what normally resides in an engine compartment fuse box and put everything except for some of the fuses onto printed circuit boards (PCBs) into a little box that lives “under” your fuses.B) In the Engine compartment.:( Where it gets rather warm. :unsure: And wet.:ohmy: And so on and so on. This regularly and frequently causes unique and frustrating problems that used to be able to be solved by replacing a damaged relay or fuse.:angry:
Unfortunately as you have discovered the hard way when a relay/fuse/connection on the PCB is damaged the end user or technician can’t simply swap out the relay or fuse an entire brand new replacement TIPM has to be installed.
Here is a copy of the wiring diagram from Mitchell ProDemand, you can get access to similar information to this yourself at the following site:
http://www.alldatadiy.com/buy/Check the connections indicated in the diagram to ensure they are intact and carefully inspect wires as best you can for wire rot, breakage, animal snacking, etc. If everything looks intact grab a digital multimeter and check for voltages at the 3 wires leaving the alternator (you’ll see them on the diagram) by CAREFULLY backprobing them. Let us know what those numbers are.
A wiring diagram you say? For the HVAC you say? Here ya go:
From Mitchell’s ProDemand service subscription used by my trade school.
You can roughly the same info from ALLDATA: http://www.alldatadiy.com/buy/
Costs $30USD/year for 1 car.
Also has the system been properly evacuated and recharged with the use of a refrigerant machine and not one of those DIY bottles sold at the local WalMart?
Usually just a quick visual check of the resistor should suffice, shorted or blown coils on one aren’t uncommon with age-no matter what vehicle they eventually give out-part of the reason why manufacturers switched to some form of integrated PCB (plastic circuit board)-based relays instead of a separate removable one.
If you have a Power Probe or fused jumper wires simply unplug the blower motor from the resistor and apply 12v power to the power wire (indicated in the diagram)-if the blower fan now runs (should be on “high”) the resistor is the issue.
Sorry if I came off as rude, that wasn’t my intention. I have access to Mitchell ProDemand and can pull your wiring diagram to answer your question provided I know the displacement of your engine (often called the engine size) i.e. 1.6L , 2.0L, etc. In your case the options are:
2.7 L, 3.5L, 5.7L, 6.1LI’m going to guess that you have the 2.7L and go from there, if you need to know where to find your engine size look on your VECI (Vehicle Emissions Control Information) label under the hood-should be whiteish and plainly visible by law.
I strongly suspect that your prior fan was perfectly fine and the blower motor resistor/transistor has either cooked itself with age (which happens) or whoever did your radio/audio work either left something unplugged or inadvertently shorted the resistor. Attached are the Theory, Operation, and Testing instructions for you on further troubleshooting. Follow them and get back to me please.
Okay so if I understand you correctly you are stating that a P.O. (prior Owner) had some “aftermarket crap” (see video links below) installed and it is now screwing with the STOCK security system?
The only advice I can give you is to return the vehicle to STOCK using parts yard parts if necessary as any other advice would constitute a “how-to” on stealing this year/make/model of car. If returning it to stock doesn’t fix the problem, take it to a competent technician to find & fix the electrical gremlins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51QpRJW_580 (skip to the 11:00 mark)
Stop firing the parts cannon. Need to know some EXACT info about your car
for starters: Engine Size, Auto or Manual transmission for the rest look at my signature.
Also Auto or Manual climate control?
[quote=”Jermband” post=196127]I’m not sure when that was last done. I can’t find the repair ticket, but it seems like it was about 5 years ago, and very likely over 100,000 miles. I can’t afford the $1000 to have it done again and that’s why I’m asking all these questions in case its something I’m going to have to do myself. The thermostat I installed a couple years ago is OEM. The radiator cap is also, but its not new. When I replaced the radiator, I bought a used OEM one from a junk yard and am using that cap that was with it.[/quote]
ETCG has a VManual available for purchase on the F-series timing belt job….much less than $1000. You can rent a coolant pressure & cap tester from any auto parts store and check to see if it is leaking that way, or just buy the VManual and do the timing belt & water pump as long overdue preventative maintenance, should you go that route buy an ASIN timing belt kit from RockAuto that includes a new water pump and all required gaskets. Finally make sure there is no air pocket in the cooling system, ETCG has several videos on how to bleed them out properly.
When was the last time you did a timing belt & water pump job? IIRC recommended service is every 80-100k miles. Also if you DO a timing belt job swap out the thermostat while you’re doing it with a HONDA OEM t-stat and change the radiator cap as well for Honda OEM. (Both items are wear/maintenance items with ~3-5 yr change interval)
Could we get an “interview” with your accountant for an ETCG1 video perhaps with a break down of what all they charged her for (including R.O.s if possible)?
Order a new power steering rack, have it installed by a TRUSTED shop and have the tire place comp you for the cost. Then never deal with this crappy place again.
[quote=”Michael25″ post=190450]Thank you for your reply! I don’t like my solution either, but I can’t afford a new abs controller. It is hard for me to come to terms with spending that much money on a mistake that only took seconds to make. I found this https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1999,k2500+suburban,7.4l+v8,1353417,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+modulator+valve,679 abs controller on rockauto, but it doesn’t look much like mine. Mine has a black cover on top that says “Kelsey-Hayes” on it. I guess I have to take some parts from the old abs controller for the new one? I know nothing about abs besides what it does, how it works and its components I was never told about in school. My abs light has been on since I bought the truck so the new controller might fix it I guess.[/quote]
The ABS system has 2 parts one is the electric controller and the other is a modulator valve that you priced on RockAuto. I strongly recommend replacing BOTH parts with junkyard inventory or ebay a rebuilding service.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/electrical-videos/491-solving-2001-saab-9-5-abs-tcs-cel-problem
Both the FSM and Electrical Troubleshooting Supplemental are available in PDF form around the internet. A simple google search should help you find it, just FYI.
Per my copy of the manual step 1 on page 11-295 is “Remove the fuel tank” for all ’99-’00 models
EDIT: I have ’98 Honda civic just FYI. How I originally found ETCG