[jonathan]

Ill buy a new choke pull off, do you know what adjustments should i make to the pull off when it arrives ? I dont know the exact clearances that it should have

[jonathan]

If all the fluid was gone from the master cylinder, you have to bleed it again, its easy, first bench bleed it, ericthecarguy has a video about this, fill it up with fluid, then if you are working alone install the master cylinder loosely first and tighten the brake lines to it but leave them loose, put a giant screwdriver or somethibg on the brake pedal and jam it against the seat, then tighten the brake lines and release the screwdriver from the pedal, repeat this process 4 or 5 times untill all the air is removed

[jonathan]

Master cylinder can leak from where they connect to the booster and ruin all the seals and diaphragms at the booster. Its most certainly leaking from there and if thats the case i would remove the booster also and inspect it and maybe remove any fluid thats in it before it does any more damage

[jonathan]

Hi, as a diy myself i try to do all the repairs myself if i can, you have to understand that its going to be quite a bit of work to get the clutch done by yourself, but i say go for it ! And by the time you will be ready you will have the extra cash that you would have paid a mechanic still in your pocket

[jonathan]

Thanks for the reply, im thinking its the pull down unit because last day i started the car up and the choke flap didnt open or if anything it barely moved

[jonathan]

This is at startup, and i alreasy cleaned the carb recently

[jonathan]

Im believing that the intake manifold gasket is torn up or something where there is cylinder no.3 i can hear engine revs up when i spray carb cleaner, also there is a massive vacuum leak between the brake servo and booster which also hisses alot and when i spray carb clean engine revs up

[jonathan]

Yeah i thought that too, i dont believe its anything to do with engine compression it has only 24k miles on it

[jonathan]

Today i sprayed soapy water around where the spark plug meets the head and there was bubbles forming meaning there is a leak, its tightened all the way, also the engine is misfiring in cylinder 3 only the same one where bubbles formed

[jonathan]

Ok today i tried a different test, i have read on the net that if you put your hand on the carburetor and it runs better its a vacuum leak, and i done it, it ran better and while i was holding my hand slightly on the carburetor i unplugged all of the spark plug wires one at a time and they all made the engine stumble so i think i can say that the problem is my intake manifold vacuum leak right ? Also when i spray carb cleaner on the intake gasket whete the 3 and 4 cylinders are it runs smooth

[jonathan]

The wires are like 400 miles old. It is sparking if i unplug from the distributor cap and from the plug i can see the sparks. If the resistance is high how come 2 of them are working fine

[jonathan]

Also distributor cap and rotor are new even the plugs and wires are new

[jonathan]

Ok im stuck now. The engine is misfiring in cylinders 3 and 4. When i remove ht leads from them nothing happens, changed spark plugs with known good one, nothing happens, ht leads 1 and 2 have 12.4kohms and 3and 4 have 10kohms. Ignition coil have 1ohm resistance, spark plugs dont show plug fouling with oil or any other. Plugs are with a white tip all of them, also when im driving engine is still misfiring i can feel it hard to go up to speed

[jonathan]

[quote=”college man” post=180076]Cap off the brake booster line and see if the leak is detected or the problem goes away.
Also inspect that rubber line for cracks or splits. If the booster is at fault you will need a
new booster.[/quote]

Yesterday i removed the inlet manifold to servo vacuum hose and blocked the non return valve on the servo, it was still sucking air from between the booster and master, i can feel it with my hands

[jonathan]

Thanks to you guys 🙂 i will buy a new one thanks again ! 🙂

[Author]

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