[jonkun]

Hey Eric — you’re right it would be rather silly to point at the fuel pump for a no crank/no start condition. I should’ve re-read my original description because the no crank/no start condition was fixed with the new starter(mechanic put this in). But the stalls that happen are with a crank/no start condition. (I have my terminology right, but I might’ve came off as confusing throughout the thread)

Anyways. The car eventually stopped wanting to turn on. In fact, the fuel pump was no longer priming! Thankfully the car was stuck in the driveway, so I was able to get in there and check out the fuel pump by itself. So I replaced the pump (this was something I was pretty iffy against because I know *you* mentioned previously in one of your videos that honda fuel pumps BARELY fail). The car fired right up. I either got really lucky and the car’s going to run perfectly fine, or it will stall in the next few days and I just wasted my time/money by just jumping on the fuel pump like that. This happened thursday and friday, so there was actually a little backstory on how I eventually got led up to replacing the fuel pump. I really didn’t want to do it. Especially in Ohio weather.

As for the fuel pump that was in the tank, it was a Bosch fuel pump. Though the part # on it doesn’t match up with the part # the mechanic gave me. Maybe because they use their own internal part numbering system, I don’t know. (should I check with the mechanic to see if the actual part #s match up? The fuel pump access was all rusted out and it looked as if nobody had been in there for years. I’ve since replaced all of that, but what do you guys think about this?)

So getting back to the issue of no crank/no start, and the crank/no start problem.. I really do apologize for not clarifying clearly. I made this thread looking for the problem relating to the crank/no start condition since the no crank/no start was fixed already(though the stalling just happened to start right when the no crank/no start condition started happening).

EDIT: WOW. I actually messed up clarification myself a few posts ago. I really do apologize for this. But yeah, thanks for pointing out the logic messups. ;p

[jonkun]

Hey Eric — you’re right it would be rather silly to point at the fuel pump for a no crank/no start condition. I should’ve re-read my original description because the no crank/no start condition was fixed with the new starter(mechanic put this in). But the stalls that happen are with a crank/no start condition. (I have my terminology right, but I might’ve came off as confusing throughout the thread)

Anyways. The car eventually stopped wanting to turn on. In fact, the fuel pump was no longer priming! Thankfully the car was stuck in the driveway, so I was able to get in there and check out the fuel pump by itself. So I replaced the pump (this was something I was pretty iffy against because I know *you* mentioned previously in one of your videos that honda fuel pumps BARELY fail). The car fired right up. I either got really lucky and the car’s going to run perfectly fine, or it will stall in the next few days and I just wasted my time/money by just jumping on the fuel pump like that. This happened thursday and friday, so there was actually a little backstory on how I eventually got led up to replacing the fuel pump. I really didn’t want to do it. Especially in Ohio weather.

As for the fuel pump that was in the tank, it was a Bosch fuel pump. Though the part # on it doesn’t match up with the part # the mechanic gave me. Maybe because they use their own internal part numbering system, I don’t know. (should I check with the mechanic to see if the actual part #s match up? The fuel pump access was all rusted out and it looked as if nobody had been in there for years. I’ve since replaced all of that, but what do you guys think about this?)

So getting back to the issue of no crank/no start, and the crank/no start problem.. I really do apologize for not clarifying clearly. I made this thread looking for the problem relating to the crank/no start condition since the no crank/no start was fixed already(though the stalling just happened to start right when the no crank/no start condition started happening).

EDIT: WOW. I actually messed up clarification myself a few posts ago. I really do apologize for this. But yeah, thanks for pointing out the logic messups. ;p

[jonkun]

Alright. Well neither lights are on after the 3 seconds you mentioned. I did the test again (I counted) 30 times. Heard the fuel pump scretch every time, and the main relay click.

Fuses all checked out fine(the ones you listed).

Voltage on the battery reads 12.34V.. that’s about right, isn’t it?

Green Key Light.. this never comes on or unless I’ve just removed the key.

I’m going to go on whim here and point at the fuel pump for causing the stalls. Tomorrow I will be doing the tests on the ignition switch and main relay with a meter, but I don’t think either are at fault here. Maybe the engine isn’t getting any spark, who knows. I won’t know that until I check everything out tomorrow. My gut feeling is telling me that the mechanic I had that worked on the fuel pump when it failed last time put in a cheap or faulty pump. It wasn’t always ridiculously loud as it is now.

Anyways.. is there any way to test for a failing fuel pump? I believe there’s a wiring in the back of the car you can access under the carpet where a meter can be hooked up, but that’s about it. The CEL didn’t come on last time the fuel pump completely died.

[jonkun]

Alright. Well neither lights are on after the 3 seconds you mentioned. I did the test again (I counted) 30 times. Heard the fuel pump scretch every time, and the main relay click.

Fuses all checked out fine(the ones you listed).

Voltage on the battery reads 12.34V.. that’s about right, isn’t it?

Green Key Light.. this never comes on or unless I’ve just removed the key.

I’m going to go on whim here and point at the fuel pump for causing the stalls. Tomorrow I will be doing the tests on the ignition switch and main relay with a meter, but I don’t think either are at fault here. Maybe the engine isn’t getting any spark, who knows. I won’t know that until I check everything out tomorrow. My gut feeling is telling me that the mechanic I had that worked on the fuel pump when it failed last time put in a cheap or faulty pump. It wasn’t always ridiculously loud as it is now.

Anyways.. is there any way to test for a failing fuel pump? I believe there’s a wiring in the back of the car you can access under the carpet where a meter can be hooked up, but that’s about it. The CEL didn’t come on last time the fuel pump completely died.

[jonkun]

Hey 001stunna,

– Main Relay.
I haven’t checked this yet but I will later today.

– Ignition Switch.
The dashboard lights stayed on every time. However, I noted something very interesting. The fuel pump is making this really obnoxious high-pitched sound when I turn the key to the on(2) position. The maintenance required + engine check lights are on when the fuel pump fires up. I don’t ever recall this happening, so I’m wondering if the brand new fuel pump is ready to shit the dirt?

– Faulty Neutral Safety Switch.
I will most certainly try this next time.

– Green Light flashing
I can’t recall if it does or doesn’t, so I’ll get back to you on this one.

Thanks for the input.

[jonkun]

Hey 001stunna,

– Main Relay.
I haven’t checked this yet but I will later today.

– Ignition Switch.
The dashboard lights stayed on every time. However, I noted something very interesting. The fuel pump is making this really obnoxious high-pitched sound when I turn the key to the on(2) position. The maintenance required + engine check lights are on when the fuel pump fires up. I don’t ever recall this happening, so I’m wondering if the brand new fuel pump is ready to shit the dirt?

– Faulty Neutral Safety Switch.
I will most certainly try this next time.

– Green Light flashing
I can’t recall if it does or doesn’t, so I’ll get back to you on this one.

Thanks for the input.

[jonkun]

[quote=”blacK20″ post=38276]From my experience, ignition switches either work or they don’t. The fact that it first loses power and then stalls out shortly after tells me it’s not the ignition switch. Have you taken a look at the distributor? When it doesn’t start, do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? You don’t want to rule out a faulty pump. I’ve seen many bad pumps right out of the box.[/quote]
Yes, I heard the fuel pump clicking (except for htis last time, I didn’t bother listening for it). Buut.. I do agree that maybe the fuel pump could be the culprit here too. In that case, I’ll be one unhappy camper. ;p

Distributor? There’s a new cap on it, but the other parts weren’t changed. Good idea on that part.

Hmm.. thanks for your input, by the way. 🙂

[jonkun]

[quote=”blacK20″ post=38276]From my experience, ignition switches either work or they don’t. The fact that it first loses power and then stalls out shortly after tells me it’s not the ignition switch. Have you taken a look at the distributor? When it doesn’t start, do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? You don’t want to rule out a faulty pump. I’ve seen many bad pumps right out of the box.[/quote]
Yes, I heard the fuel pump clicking (except for htis last time, I didn’t bother listening for it). Buut.. I do agree that maybe the fuel pump could be the culprit here too. In that case, I’ll be one unhappy camper. ;p

Distributor? There’s a new cap on it, but the other parts weren’t changed. Good idea on that part.

Hmm.. thanks for your input, by the way. 🙂

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