Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
One thing that comes to mind is using one of these extractors. They are made by Irwin (as in Vice-Grips).
One thing that comes to mind is using one of these extractors. They are made by Irwin (as in Vice-Grips).
I’m not sure I understand what you are asking. Usually there will be 1 sensor for each bank, located before the catalyst, and then 1 behind each converter.
So, the 2 in front of the converters will be 1/1 and 2/1.
The ones behind the converters will be 1/2 and 2/2.Are you saying you have another in the middle????
I’m not sure I understand what you are asking. Usually there will be 1 sensor for each bank, located before the catalyst, and then 1 behind each converter.
So, the 2 in front of the converters will be 1/1 and 2/1.
The ones behind the converters will be 1/2 and 2/2.Are you saying you have another in the middle????
May be worth doing some more diagnostics just because the in-tank fuel pumps can be a bit of a pain to do. If you can get at the connector, try back probing it and make sure it’s receiving power when it’s supposed to. If the power is there but it’s not running/priming, then that does point to the pump. Otherwise you have an electrical problem somewhere else (ignition switch, etc).
When the pump is running but the engine sputters can you try testing for fuel pressure (if you have access to a gauge). Has the fuel filter ever been replaced?
As far as just replacing the pump, IMO if you go through all the trouble of getting at the pump, might as well replace the whole unit. It would suck to have something else go bad (like the sending unit) just after you replace the pump.
May be worth doing some more diagnostics just because the in-tank fuel pumps can be a bit of a pain to do. If you can get at the connector, try back probing it and make sure it’s receiving power when it’s supposed to. If the power is there but it’s not running/priming, then that does point to the pump. Otherwise you have an electrical problem somewhere else (ignition switch, etc).
When the pump is running but the engine sputters can you try testing for fuel pressure (if you have access to a gauge). Has the fuel filter ever been replaced?
As far as just replacing the pump, IMO if you go through all the trouble of getting at the pump, might as well replace the whole unit. It would suck to have something else go bad (like the sending unit) just after you replace the pump.
One thing I want to point out – Just like other brands, buying them 1 piece at a time (wrench, socket, etc.) is always going to cost a heck of a lot more than buying the ‘set’, and usually the bigger the set the cheaper the per unit price.
I don’t think you can compare Craftsman with Snap-On, just as I would not compare a Ferrari with a Kia. From people I’ve asked in the business, what I’ve heard is there are little (but significant) differences in Snap-On tools that make them work better than consumer tools. Maybe it’s the offset angle of the wrenches, the number of teeth on the ratchet, slimmer head design so it fits in tighter places, etc…all stuff the weekend mechanic may never notice, But if I’m making a living turning wrenches I don’t have time to figure out what works and what doesn’t, and if something fails I need the tool to come to me, not me taking time off to drive somewhere to exchange it.
One thing I want to point out – Just like other brands, buying them 1 piece at a time (wrench, socket, etc.) is always going to cost a heck of a lot more than buying the ‘set’, and usually the bigger the set the cheaper the per unit price.
I don’t think you can compare Craftsman with Snap-On, just as I would not compare a Ferrari with a Kia. From people I’ve asked in the business, what I’ve heard is there are little (but significant) differences in Snap-On tools that make them work better than consumer tools. Maybe it’s the offset angle of the wrenches, the number of teeth on the ratchet, slimmer head design so it fits in tighter places, etc…all stuff the weekend mechanic may never notice, But if I’m making a living turning wrenches I don’t have time to figure out what works and what doesn’t, and if something fails I need the tool to come to me, not me taking time off to drive somewhere to exchange it.
2/1 means the bank 2 up-stream sensor (not the one after the converter). I would be surprised if your Haynes manual doesn’t have a simple diagram of the engine block with the cylinders numbered, but just in case it doesn’t, you should be able to figure it out like this: On a ‘V’ type engine the left and right banks of cylinders are offset a little, bank 1 is the one that sticks out forward a little more than bank 2. Sometimes it’s tough to tell, I’d take another look at the manual and see if you can find the diagram.
