Forum Replies Created
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Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I know you said they’re not cheep ‘knock offs’ but I know from experience that you need to use quality pads on that car, if not it will make noise. Personally if I go aftermarket I use Akebono ceremaics as I’ve never had a problem with those. It is also important that you service the caliper properly when installing pads, I can’t stress enough how important it is to use silicone paste on the slide pins and NOT grease. Here is a link to my disc brake replacement video that although not the exact same set up the process would be the same.
Eric, is there a difference in using the silicone paste vs. synthetic brake grease on those parts?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
+1 on BigC’s post. If the pedal was very hard then you wouldn’t have power assist, usually a sign of a bad brake booster.
Is there a sign of alot of brake dust on the front wheels?Let us know what you find.
+2 The brake booster is what comes to mind.
With the car off, press the brake pedal down a few times. Does it get harder to press after the 2nd or 3rd time or does it always feel the same? If it always feels the same then something is wrong with the brake booster.
I replaced a set of pads on a Matrix, resurfaced the rotors, and it was quiet…for about 2 months. After that it sounded like a mating call for Mack dump truck every time I hit the brakes. Took it all back apart, cleaned everything, lubed the slides, etc. even put the anti-squeal spray on the back of the pads (never done that before in 30 years of doing my brakes), reassembled and it was fine…for a few months and then it was back again just as bad as ever. These weren
A smoke machine would be nice, but they generally go for $500, and that’s for an inexpensive one.
Here
Anyone else having problems not being able to set the ‘e-mail me’ option when you subscribe to a thread? It’s always grayed to and set to no.
It will be interesting to see what happens. No scolding but you really can’t compare a grease/dust shield boot to a rubber septum because those are designed to be pierced (and are probably held compressed to force it to reseal). They also aren’t flexing like a grease boot will.
Three things you absolutely need to work on cars:
Big breaker bar
Big hammer
Big prybarAll the rest if fluff S:)
The hand tools are probably OK, but the Kobalt airtools are T-(
I went through a couple of their die grinders before buying an Ingersoll Rand unit. No more problems.IMO almost any house brand tool will do the job for a DIYer, but the tools will not hold up well being abused 8-10 hours a day, every day.
Quoted From greaser365:
9/17 … checks for “fuses, exhaust and vacuum leaks, along with a scope analysis to track o2 wave forms ( I assume this service would be available thru the same parts vendors who offer code checks for those of us without an oscilloscope or the ability to read one)….
Generally not. They will read out the codes, replace a battery, test alternators/starters but they don’t do diagnostics – nor would I want them to!
Just remember that knowing what the code is and then replacing parts is like calling your doctor and telling him your knee huts and based on that conversation he decides to replace your knee. Knowing what set the CEL is a start, then you need to do some diagnostics. Sounds like you are going to do some testing – post up what you find.
I agree with Rich.
Codes can clear themselves but it can take some time (x number of drive-cycles), so just disconnect the battery to manually clear them.Also, I think Honda’s of that generation still allowed you to manually get the codes by ‘reading’ the blinks on the Check Engine Light like we used to do on the old GMs. Maybe someone here can tell you the right jumper locations to get the codes displayed if you don’t want to take it to the autoparts place to do it.