Forum Replies Created
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I agree that you should use OEM stuff whenever you can especially when the prices are close. The stuff you get from GMPartsDirect will be the same stuff you would buy at the dealer – without the outrageous markup. Rockauto is also a good site where you get to choose between OEM (in this case either Delco, Delphi or might be Denso?) and aftermarket rebuilt. No site that I have found is consistantly the lowest for every part – so you have to shop around. I took a quick look and came up with gmpartsdirect = 263, OEM at Rock = 245, and the rebuilt ones were 245+ so, I’d just go with new from one of these places – this isn’t a job you want to do twice. Like Third Gear said, you have to calculate shipping on these prices, but it’s much better than the dealer.
The smoking may just be a leaking valve cover gasket. As for the rest, I think we need a little more info. Is the check-engine light on? Is it shaking all the time/just at idle/during acceleration? Hot or cold? What’s the mileage?
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
If the advice above doesn’t work the next step would be to cut the ‘nail heads’ off of the retainers on the back of the backing plate, this will allow the shoes to pivot to allow the drum to come off. You can get new pins in a hardware kit. Good luck.
That’s a great tip.
If you are talking about fuse ‘D’, it’s for the A/C condensor fan, that’s what CON stands for. It provides power to the condensor fan relay (also in the same fuse box), and then on to the condensor fan itself. I’d test continuity on the fan and see if it’s shorted out, maybe apply 12v to it and make sure it runs, and if that’s OK work your way back to the fuse box…maybe a pinched wire?
Does it only blow when you try to run the A/C?
Let us know what you find.
+1 to what everyone said and I’ll add – did they make sure to clean the protective coating off the new rotor + any grease/oil that may have gotten on there during the install?
Quoted From djdevon3:
Like a chinese finger puzzle oh no! You’re doomed. ;P Where there’s a will there’s a way.
I suspected the Mini was made in China…now I know for sure W;)
Quoted From spelunkerd:
Regarding stuck bleeder screws, there is a little tool that is advertised as helping to loosen stuck bleeder screws. It’s here
http://www.babcotools.ca/s.nl/it.A/id.34208/.f
I guess the metal device fits over the screw and you tap on the metal using a hammer or air hammer and the screw is shocked loose. Does anybody have experience with this device?
I’d love to see how that thing works.
+1 on dreamer.
With a scantool you can ‘see’ what each speed sensor is reporting back to the abs unit. I know you said you replaced some of them, but it may be the wiring, the reluctor ring, etc. You need to know what the module is seeing.
I would skip doing anything with the EGR until you know for sure it’s not something more obvious. If you have a misfire code and it’s pointing to 1 specific cylinder, do some checking and make sure everything is OK with the cylinder and go from there.
+1 on what jason said.
I’ll also add the following:
Prior to the revised EPA MPG estimates (2008?) the conditions that the govment used to come up with those MPG numbers were about as good as using a Ouija board to guess what mileage you’d get. For inst
Since the ABS light is coming on after a few stops, I strongly recommend you take it to a shop and read out the codes – that should tell you exactly what’s wrong (or at least point you in the right direction). It’s going to be a lot cheaper in the long run even if you have to pay the shop to read the code vs. throwing money at it by guessing at what parts to replace.
I wouldn’t worry about them having the right equipment – if they have the equipment to work on modern cars they should be able to pull codes out of any module. Let us know what the code is and maybe we can help out.