Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Quoted From DrivewayAl:
There was no drop in fuel pressure, It was 67 psi and held there for at least 20min. after shutting engine off. Once the truck is running it is ok. There is no hesitation or stalling. It is ok under wot. 1 out of 4 starts on average it starts up just fine but the other times it cranks, turns over but will not start. One thing I did notice was there is some shaking with the harmonic balancer. The tensioner jumps quite a bit with the vibration. I know the crank sensor is mounted there. I am wondering if that could be a problem. Also aren’t these trucks known for having idle air control problems. Thanks.
Driveway AlI don’t know about Ford but the crank sensor getting chewed up was (is?) a problem on some Chevys. May be worth looking into – a dancing balancer is not a good thing.
This is the video DioFan was talking about, but I’m not sure the Civic has an aluminum pan like the one shown here for the Legend – I thought the Civics use a steel pan – so, I’m not sure this will work. They do make oil pan thread repair kits.
A good thing to do if the car is newer and you happen to have the wheels off for any reason, remove the screws before rust sets in, put anti-seize on them and reinstall. You would be surprized at how well they come out 4 or 5 years down the road if you do this up front. But I agree, a lot of people just leave them out, no real harm.
I don’t see how they could cause a wobbly tire though.
I agree with Eric – if it’s not overheating then you may be looking for a problem where one doesn’t exist.
If you want to force the fans to come on (not using the A/C) then hold the RPM at 2000 for a few minutes after it reaches operating temp and I bet they will kick in.Just out of curiosity – according to my schematic, the turn/stop function is the same filament on the bulb, so what happens with the tail lamps when you turn the hazards on?
Also, since the rear turn signals/brakes go through the hazard switch, if it’s not allowing current to go to the rear lights that would cause the fast flashing just like a bad bulb. Maybe cycle that switch back and forth a few times or jiggle it while on the brakes, see what happens.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Personally I use just a small amount of Honda bond as suggested to secure the gasket to the pan, just in a few spots to hold it in place. I mostly do it this way because if I’m going to end up scraping stuff off I’d rather do it off of the pan at the parts washer than under the engine as it drips oil on my face. That said even if you use an OE gasket expect it to start to leak within a year even with the most care as those gaskets are famous for leaking, I think it has something to do with their thickness and the material they are made from which seems to get brittle after a few heat cycles. A good way to extend it’s usefulness however is to torque the fasteners to the correct spec, I’m sad to say I don’t know what that is but what I do is use a chordless drill with the clutch set to 15 to get consistant torque on all fasteners. You’re looking for just a slight amount of ‘crush’ as you tighten the fasteners, you don’t want to see it squishing out as you tighten things down. BTW my chordless drill is a Ryobi.
I’ve had really good luck using Felpro gaskets on all sorts of makes – easier to get, they work, and are cheaper than the dealer stuff.
If it is plugged then like the other guys said, try flushing it using Eric’s method on his video. If that doesn’t work and you have to remove it, these guys did a great video on that car:
+1 on Dreamer’s post – if you do a search on Youtube you’ll see several where they have to drop the subframe (even just a few inches) to get this job done. I know these are a different make, but it may give you some ideas.
Just some examples:
What I’ve done in these situations is put a dab of sealer in a few spots around the pan to hold the gasket while I work the assembly in place. Don’t over do it on the sealer – it’s there to hold the gasket, not seal.
I’ve never heard of using 3m adhesive to hold a gasket – I thought that stuff is for upholstery, carpets, etc. not engines.
Might be. I’m not sure if it’s the same engine but these guys talk about the sensor being damaged by the crankshaft and how to fix.
http://www.youtube.com/user/realfixesre … 4n25KpQaB0
The other thing to watch out for is some t-stats have a specific way they need to be installed – there’s a hole or small valve that needs to be in the right orientation. Not all cars have them, but if you do and it’s installed wrong that may give you grief when bleeding.
+1 on the splined shaft.
